I have a bunch of ebooks didn't remember but have , Mastering Woodworking Machines in my files . The files are too big to put in here but should be able to send them through gmail. You have a gmail account ? Forgot I had so many woodworking ebooks , about 100
Appreciate it. I'm old school in that regard, I need to have the paper in hand. I've found it very hard to read a pdf magazine or book.
if you change your mind let me know, I found I have more than 100 ebooks, and about a thousand full woodworking e magazines
Jason, will do. If you find yourself up near Hershey/Harrisburg/Palmyra before then, just let me know. I have them set aside for you.
Ok, sent you the book Mastering Woodworking Machines Let me know you got it. You and anyone else, want something in particular let me know I'll see what I have. I could send you some more stuff I think you would be interested in, but I won't send anymore unless you want me to.. I scarfed up all this stuff off the interweb a few years ago.
Here's what I do. My sled has a runner that rides in the miter slot of my band saw table, which keeps the whole jig gliding in parallel to the blade and therefore straight. So from there making a straight cut is a matter of securing the log to the jig (I do that with a Jorgensen "deep reach" pipe clamp). The runner is 2' longer than my sled; I've found this important to keep the start and the end of the cut from "wandering". It also helps realign the jig when it jumps the track, if you can see where the runner is. I also drew a scale in 1/4" increments on the sled. The runner guarantees a straight cut, but if you want to align the log to cut square with the heart center, then it needs to be parallel to the sled and blade. I use a square to align the front and back of the log with the same index mark. It also helps make quick work of indexing the log when you want to rip lumber. That's mostly what I do with it - resawing slabs or cants that I've made with the chainsaw mill.
Nice set-up Shawn. I was going after something smaller scale, for firewood length pieces. I did take your advice and made the runner longer on the lead edge and i used a pipe clamp. Here's what I whipped up today.
Yup, that should do the trick! The deep reach clamp will give you an extra couple inches if you find you need it. So - you got any dust collection? Looks like you're ready to make a whole lot of that! [EDIT] One more thing - I like to clamp another piece of plywood down on the offcut side of the table. I learned that lesson after I ruined the set of the teeth on one of my blades with a large unsupported offcut. With a bandsaw you're limited in throat depth on the fence side. Also with a heavy piece, its nice to have the support of the sled. For a tablesaw edging jig you might want to just mount the clamp to a board and ride against the fence because there's plenty of room. But on the bandsaw the clamp would consume valuable throat depth.
I have a 12" Delta and I am thinking of sawing smaller pieces. I don't have a fence, but I have clamped a straight edge with some success. The edge of the table does not have much to grab to, so a fence may be in order here. I probably won't get into the larger pieces, due to my limitations of space.
Last week I bought a Dust Deputy for my shop vac ( made in USA ). Filled a 5 gal bucket already! Also banged out a mobile base for the saw. Didn't get a pic finished, but that's basically it.
You know, something cool about a jig like that is you don't need the clamp at all. In some situations you might be able to use a pair of wedges as clamps instead. That could come in handy.
I have flattened well over 200 slabs using this technique. The best bit I've found BY FAR are the Magnate bottom cleaning bits. I like the 1" - 1 1/4" bits. Tough, sharp and stay that way.
