First Fire In New Stove Guidelines Please

You just need to ballpark it. No need to be as precise as you're shooting for. Bring the wood inside to warm up and then split a piece to test. This is easy peasy lemon squeezy.

 

Yes, when I installed the chimney part that is above the roof, I put the 1' section on top of the 3' section, then installed the chimney cap, and then put that assembly in place. I had someone here that day. I got the pipe crooked and had to remove it and the section below wanted to untwist even though I had a locking band on place tightened securely. Therefore, I am thinking that I will need another set of hands just in case it happens again. What good is a locking band if it does not actually lock?

 

The problem is not knowledge but strength. The main difference between a man doing something and a woman doing it is strength; yes, I know there are women body builders and a lot of them take testosterone to help build muscle mass. I was able to lift the cap, 1', and 3' section in place but I was not lifting over my head; and it also depends on how much would be above my hands; that moment force thing.

 

I get that. Just offering suggestions. Can you do the whole thing again, just a foot higher? Otherwise, wrangle up some help and get it done. Good luck.

 

I need to see if I can get some help; don't want to be up on the roof attempting this without someone with me.

 

I did the palm test and it read along the lines of 29.6. I also just tested some poplar I brought in this morning and let sit by the stove all day; it read around 11.7. I have not done the 1 meg ohm resister test.

 

You're all good it should be around 30% when check it in your palm

 

Let's say my cheap meter is off; it is not likely that the wood is 30% moisture. The popular was cut short, and I split it into fairly small pieces and it is my understanding that popular with good air flow can dry fairly fast. I crisscrossed the entire stack, so the air flow is better through my stacks and the top was covered the entire year. Now the sweet gum I cut after the popular is probably not nearly as dry because it is a denser wood; another point to consider is the density of the wood. I pressed the prongs of the meter fairly hard into the wood to make good contact. My meter has different modes for different types of wood and I did set it for the popular. If I had the money, I would just post a piece of the wood to someone to test with their meter but postage costs are rather high these days.

 

These inexpensive meters are notorious for not being entirely accurate...but as Kimberly just said, they'll usually get you in the ballpark though, close enough for firewood. Most people could never afford (or at least justify) a good moisture meter..the kind they use on lumber.
It sounds like most of the wood you have been burning is at least under 20%...good enough, although when you get into stuff that is closer to 15%, you'll know...it burns niiiice!
Any idea when you may be able to extend the chimney Kim?

 

You can get a mini ligno for a hundred bucks
http://www.amazon.com/Lignomat-USA-...564&sr=1-1&keywords=mini+ligno+moisture+meter

 

I had to go on the roof yesterday to install an antenna my friend gave me. I looked at the chimney and I may be able to do this by myself. However, it would be nice if someone could be with me.

 

+1

Don't do it if your not comfortable with it.

 

I think Kimberly's meter may be off a bit, maybe off quite a bit. I went looking for threads as to when she got her chainsaw, but more specifically when she started splitting the wood (poplar) and my best guess is that she was splitting in June of 2015 following the timeline of her posts. So the wood she is using isn't probably the best being seasoned maybe 8 months. (poplar generally takes one year to season) But, with the way she has it stacked (crisscrossed) it could be drier than most would expect depending on the location of the stacks. Plus she indicated she did top cover. Add her geographic location and I would think it is possible to achieve those low numbers on that type of wood.
How a saw came to be. | Firewood Hoarders Club
For now though, I would still suspect the meter until it could be checked with known dry (not necessarily seasoned) wood like a new kiln dried, not treated, 2x4 piece split. (a cutoff from a project)

IMO, draft might be an issue but not because of the height. But more because she hasn't been able to get the chimney warm enough to start the draw. That along with operator error could be suspect since she has a new system and probably new to burning firewood, but time and experience will eventually alleviate that issue.

BTW, my wood is 3 years plus seasoned. That's 3 full seasons plus the months up to the first heating season or average 3.5 years seasoned if CSS and top covered in the early spring. My area is also quite windy with winds averaging between 15 and 20mph on almost a daily basis for a minimum of a few hours. This season I have been burning mostly oak, black birch, and a little black locust. (I hate most hardwoods) Moisture content is usually between 8 and 12% with the occasional 16 to 17% piece. My stove hates wood that wet!

I had thought about giving away at least a pickup truck load of my crispiest hardwoods to complete the heating season, but decided not to since the one I intended to bring it to was being a royal PITA including being snippety towards me.

But yes, 3 years plus seasoned is a real treat especially compared to one year or less seasoned that many try to burn.