Fahrenheit 50F Issue - actuator related

OK gang - ran into another new issue last night at 11pm. While doing a cleaning, I noticed my door flap has not closing tightly against the pot...checked the normal suspects (door arm & door) for tweaks...but nothing major. So I figured I'd go inside and turn the pusher actuator tube. Pulled the pin, gave it 1/2 a turn...tested...and still loose...did this again...same result...

So after pizzing & moaning for 5min I came to my senses and decided to diagnose the issue. It appears I've hit the end of the adjustment...in that the actuator is pulling the arm screw all the back to the end of the channel. I've never disassembled my 50F so I don't know how the actuator servos are mounted...but they feel loose to me...could that be the issue? When I retract the pusher arm all the way it hits the end and then the servo motor moves forward some...so the servo motoe is tight when fully retracted, but pretty loose in any other position.

For a quick fix (because it was damm late!!!) I glued some 3/8 round gasket rope on the inside of the door retractor...so when the pot moved back it contacted the gasket pushing the arm further back thus closing the door more tightly...not ideal, but it got me through a chilly NH night...

Any insight from those that have torn their machines apart would be helpful...especially some insight on how those servo motors mount up...

Thx

Frank

 

I'm not sure how to go about it. When I took mine apart, I took it out fully extended and it was not pretty. You might have to put in manual (service mood) and retract it. Get ready to curse. Sounds like it's the bottom one. It might help to remove the side panel.

 

But should it be loose when not fully retracted? If not then that's the issue...

I'm also guessing there's no easy way to get to the servo motor mounts...If I could get a wrench on it...it might help...

What's involved with removing that side panel? Does the top need to come off?

Thx

 

If you remove the control board there will be a small access hole. The side panel can drop some after it's all unscrewed. There's a locking ring you can remove from the rear standing square post. You might be able to turn the motor part until it's retreaded and save from dismantling the whole works, I'm guessing at this point. Good luck.

 

Yeah...I'm turning the right way...but makes no difference as the hex screw that attaches the actuator onto the arm is hitting the end of the channel...I'm thinking it's real loose or a mount has given away...still works mind you, but not as intended

My quick gasket fix is still holding up...I have another idea rolling around my head to get me through the rest of the winter if I can't tighten that actuator motor up...I'll make my gasket idea permanent by tapping in some adjustable screws on the back side of the door arm...that'll give me a solid adjustable point of contact for the pusher to push against...this weekend is going to be COLD...crossing my fingers...otherwise I'll be forced to turn on the dreaded propane furnace

 

Feeling good!!! Was just browsing the 50F teardown sticky and saw a couple good pics that show the actuator motor mounts...I think I can get a wrench on them by going in from the exhaust fan side and pulling the pins on those arms to swing them out of the way...it would sure make my weekend...

 

If you are talking about the allen wrench hex head on the bottom, it did seem very loose when DexterDay and I did a tear down of my stove 2 weeks ago. I tightened it up a few turns but it still seems fairly sloppy, probably for a reason. If that isn't what you were talking about, disregard.

 

I'm refering to the motor itself...I think it is loose and moving forward while it is pulling the pusher plate rearward...that would explain why I can't get the clean-out door to seal properly...as the bottom hex bolt reaches the end of the travel (in the channel it rides in), it's just pulling the motor forward...I think...as I didn't have the opportunity to look at it last night. But it makes sense as turning the tube adjuster has no impact and the motor is really loose when the pusher arm is anywhere other than fully retracted...the re-light plate motor was not loose regardless of position (If I recall correctly). Fortunately, my quick fix mentioned above is keeping it running pretty well.

 

Let's hope it ties you over until the weather eases off a bit. Cold as heck here and blending corn in the pellets is a savior

 

thanks for the words of encouragement...going to be VERY cold this weedend...then it eases up a bunch...

 

ok guys...quick update on my 50f actuator issue...which, interestingly enough, had nothing to do with my actuator. I thought there was an issue with them because they were loose, but after removing the small rear cover and seeing how they are monted...they are supposed to be loose when not in the full retracted position. The actuators are mounted with pins and float...thus they are allowed to move. So...seeing that the actuators were fine, I was forced to find the real issue...which ended up being the arm that closes the front pot door. The arm issue was not obvious and upon inspection you can't visiably see that anything is wrong with it...fortunately I had a spare and just for chits & giggles I decided to through it in and see where its position was. To my surprise the hooks that fit inside the front door were further into the pot whan the one I was using when fully retracted. Conclusion - the arms had stretched...yes, hard to believe and can't be seen by just looking at the arm, but it was 1/4" longer than the new spare. So...had to remove my quick fix gasket and reset the actuator tube to that it closed tight...but not too tight.

New one for me...but then again after several years of ownership it keeps me on my toes. It's burning good & hot now and I'm even getting decent ash color out of those crap NEWP...Stay warm all!

 

The design has a flaw and I'm going to figure out a permanent fix going forward...pulling the that front door tight requires some pressure...pressure & heat will eventually cause issues on that front door or the arm or both (I know and have replaced those items too many times). The need to close that door tight is the design issue as any gap will allow the drawn air to escape the pot. The air needs to be better channelled into that door and back out to the rest of the pot. I think some well placed deflectors can accomplish better airflow without pulling the door tight against the pot...gonna play with that concept on the off season...but...I...have...a...plan...

 

The thinking shall always be ahead of the horse to come to a effective plan down the road

 

It ran well over the weekend...non-stop level 5...will be curious how much abuse the pot has taken...

 

I let mine run on T-stat mode for the weekend with 50/50 Okies /corn and it handled my extreme cold snap. I was impressed but it did use a lot of fuel. It was on idle at times during the night which I was surprised to see. The LG's and corn mix was even hotter than the Okies blend just for reference.

 

Dexterday - perhaps it's the newer style pot you are running...I've noticed several improvements to the pot components over time...my pot always fails at the ignitor position...the door flap has many small holes close together in relatively thin steel, and my arms pull on the same small area over & over again.

My pots have also failed at the tops (just behind the door flap tabs) where the metal is very thin and the flames are in constant contact.

The new arm I just installed is thicker than the one what was in there (which was not original)...I've also been through several of those as they wear just before the upward bend that seats into the door.

Hence the reason that I fab my owne...I'm not complaining...I run my furnace hard...it's at either #1 or #5 and it's heating a 2,700sq/f home thaty isn't well insulated.

I've had mine since new...so my history with my furnace is well noted...