I have never installed stove pipe before this project. I found a pdf that explained how to measure. I have included it here. Since I have never installed stove pipe I thought it best to show what I have done. I am at the final stage of drilling the holes and adding the sheet metal screws. I don't have any self-taping screws that will fit. My first cut was not so great. I don't have any shears that will cut the 24g pipe. I decided to break the rule and remove the guard from my little chop saw. The saw does not have a lock-on switch. I needed for the saw to run and allow me to use both hands to feed the stove pipe into the disc. I locked the pipe together first as it was easier to handle. I decided a zip tie would do the trick with the switch. Now I know I have a bag of zip ties somewhere in the mess that I call my shed. However, I wasted two hours before I found one; the bag of ties is still missing. Once the switch was locked in place, I measured and marked the pipe for cutting. The cut was horrible, I could not see the pencil mark. I test fit and found the pipe was too long, and my pencil mark was still in place. I got the bench grinder out and used it to grind down to the pencil mark and did some finish work with the angle grinder. I was wondering as I worked if others did machine work on cutting their pipe. The pipe still ended up being too long. The crimped end did not fit all the way into the flue collar; there is a weld inside that prevents the crimp end from sitting as deep as it should. I ended up cutting the width of the weld from the crimped end of the stove pipe and that allow the pipe to sit down at the ridge in the pipe. The next pipe I worked on I decided I needed something that would allow me to see where I was cutting better. The answer was to place some paper tape around the pipe on the waste side. The next cut was much better. Still not perfect cuts because I was feeding the pipe and rotating by hand to make the cuts. I had to make a few adjustments and did some hand filing to remove burs so this job has taken a good part of the day. I would rather work slowly, make several cuts, test, more adjustments, than to waste stove pipe. Tractor Supply sells both the 12 inch section and the 24 inch section for the same price; that I did not understand since the 24 inch section has twice the material in it. I finally got the pipes fitted this evening. I am not sure one can see much detail in the photo, the camera I have does not take flash photos very well; if I could have metered off of the black pipe it may have been better but this camera does not allow that. I can try again tomorrow if someone needs a better view.
Be careful - zip ties and power switches are not good combinations. Cheap little 4" angle grinders and cutting wheels work can be had for < $20 and are a lot safer. Looks like it turned out great!
My wife's learning, now every time I say "hold my beer and watch this" she gets the video running - says something about winning $10,000 ?
Yes, I know; not the smartest way to do it but I really did not have other means. I should have preface it with "Kids, don't try this at home." I look at some of the kit the members on here have and it is impressive. Of course that kit costs some pretty cash.
Yes, I guess so. I have a cutoff tool but it is pneumatic and my old air compressor has worn rings; it is blowing the oil pass from the crankcase.
Good plot line being built up- we're in the "anxious, tense" moment.... Awaiting the fiery climax.....
Put the screws in the pipe, then put the firebrick back in, then do the low level burn in fires. The manual is very clear on how hot to get the stove during the first fires so a thermometer would have to be used.
I have a question; my friend was telling me this evening I will need to take the pipe apart every so often to check for creosote. How often is that? I don't know if I can move the stove with the firebrick in place.
This is a steel stove, it is not that critical that exact temps be adhered to, as long as you don't fire it like the depths of hades right off the bat, you will be fine. Some cast iron stoves and especially soapstone stoves are much more critical on first fire temps... You should be able to take the screws out of the pipe and work it apart without moving the stove
