In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

first time portin...

Discussion in 'Chainsaws and Power Equipment' started by R.Singletary, Jan 19, 2016.

  1. R.Singletary

    R.Singletary

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    Thank you fur your input...ok...I will soak it when I can round up some carb cleaner...yah...I don't quite have the tools to get down that far to get those...yes mdavlee dose look good...I am usin it fur an exsample...thank you...
     
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  2. R.Singletary

    R.Singletary

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    Thank you fur your input...yes there is a bit of play...thank you...
     
  3. R.Singletary

    R.Singletary

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    Thank you fur your in put...is there any way to change that bearin....or is it pressed...thank you...
     
  4. mdavlee

    mdavlee

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    You're getting close. Those little dimples won't really hurt anything. It's just not as pretty as some do.

    If the crank can move up and down it won't last long at all. Slide it over to one side and look at the bearing good. They can be coming apart and will really make a mess if it comes apart at high rpm. The big end can be replaced but it's about the same price as a new crank if you can't do it yourself.
     
  5. R.Singletary

    R.Singletary

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    Thank you fur your input...yah those dimples are hard to get out...I think the shank was to sort I was usin on my bit...so the bit wouldn't sit flat at different spots...the tip would dig in...then tryin to make something that will fit down there and sand it out is no easy task....I check the crank...side by side...lots of play...up and down...no play...I did find a grove on the crank...on the flywheel side... IMG_20160131_165829.JPG Is this crank still good...can it be sounded out...then insde the crank case on the clutch side...there is a grove...is this where the bearin seets...or is this a wear grove and make the crank case half worthless... IMG_20160131_164902.JPG thank you...
     
  6. R.Singletary

    R.Singletary

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    Good evenin friends...so I worked on the cylinder a bit more...I did a little more hoggin and sandin... IMG_20160131_173550.JPG I tryed to bevel it hear and clean it up a bit...should I bevel it on the inside hear as well... IMG_20160131_164708.JPG then I roughed up the intake... IMG_20160131_165117.JPG ... IMG_20160131_164530.JPG Then I smothed out the exhaust... IMG_20160131_164458.JPG I tryed to bevel everything I could reach... I tryed to clean up the inside of the cylinder with sand paper and a brillo pad...can't really tell...it was hella could in the shop and couldn't hold still fur a clear picture... Lol.. IMG_20160131_155300.jpg I like the sand paper and brillo pad trick...it works great...I bolted the cylinder head onto the crank case half...I see a little bit that looks like it can be hogged.... IMG_20160131_162654.jpg IMG_20160131_164948.JPG Do I Hogg this part to...do all cylinders in the 372 family fit this way always...if I hodded this spot...would it fit a different 372 the same way...can the inside of the crank case be smothef as well...thank you...
     
  7. mdavlee

    mdavlee

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    You can smooth that transition area out. The crank case as long as the bearing seating area is good then it's fine. That mark there shouldn't hurt anything as far as the bearing sealing.
     
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  8. R.Singletary

    R.Singletary

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    Thank you fur your input...the transitional are....is that this where the cylinder and crankcase come together... Like hear... IMG_20160131_192833.JPG or is it in-between the cylinder and the crank case...like hear... IMG_20160131_192941.JPG or the whole inside of the crank case itself... IMG_20160131_193922.JPG IMG_20160131_164948.JPG Thank you and thank you friends fur havin patience's with me and my questions...I'm still tryin to learn... IMG_20160131_180635.JPG ...
     
  9. clemsonfor

    clemsonfor

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    I would think you could grind the crank case but folks just dont do it cause it would be way more labor to split the case? But I am no expert
     
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  10. Adirondackstihl

    Adirondackstihl

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    This is a 2171 I did a few years ago.

    Before....
    [​IMG]

    After.....
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  11. R.Singletary

    R.Singletary

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    Thank you fur your input Clem...yah that makes sense...but I have one already already split fur rebuild and 2 more after that... So I figure while there split and if it helps performance... And my season hasn't started...what the hell....lol...thank you...
     
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  12. clemsonfor

    clemsonfor

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    Thats why I was thinking it may work for you.
     
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  13. R.Singletary

    R.Singletary

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    Thank you Clem....
     
  14. Hydro Farmer

    Hydro Farmer

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    Just polishing the ports would be a good place to start. You should see a difference just from that. Careful with taking further material out. I agree with others. Get advice before cutting into that bad boy! A thousandth too much and it can be bad news.
     
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  15. mdavlee

    mdavlee

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    Put a piston at Bdc and you'll see where the charge can flow. I would leave the case alone. You can take too much out and you'll make the saw lazy.
     
  16. clemsonfor

    clemsonfor

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    Yea one thing that I didnt think about right away is that if you scree up the jug at least you can get another to put on the case. Screw the case up and there goes that whole case halves .
     
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  17. R.Singletary

    R.Singletary

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    Thank you fur your input...wow...that looks very nice...great pictures... You sure got it smoth...how long did it take you to do that one side...thank you...
     
  18. R.Singletary

    R.Singletary

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    Thank you fur your input...lol...that's why I take the picture and ask questions... I want to learn...thank you...
     
  19. R.Singletary

    R.Singletary

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    Thank you fur your input...although I do have 3 sets of crank cases to play with...I rather lose a jug than a crank case....thank you...
     
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  20. R.Singletary

    R.Singletary

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    Thank you fur your input....is all the pistons the same in the 372xp,xpw and the x-torq... Thank you...