Will my chimney brackets work?

You forgot "rebuild stove"...

BTW, the issue with angle is that when it is loaded heavily, it will open up. As in the 90* angle becomes greater...like 120*, or 150*, or worse case scenario is 180* (basically a flat bar at that point) and it looses all its strength.
A second option, to adding that last down brace would be to simply bolt on a tab inside the angle to make it hold its 90* shape, like this

 

I understand now. I don't think the load will be enough to bend that member but I understand the thought process. It would mean spending more money.

 

No more money , use the left n right side brackets that came with the kit , even though it's sheet metal it has what's called beam strength

 

I tried to do that today and could not get them to work. I can take a photo tomorrow.

 

Outside of knowledge, going to University did not improve my lot in life.

 

I think that is happening more and more these days...too expensive...too many degrees out there that don't apply to getting a job in the real world. I know quite a few people that have (or had) $100k debt and still working right beside me with my trade school education...and $0 debt
Sorry, hope this doesn't derail too much :/

 

I know. It is just that I get so discourage; I went to University but still have to beg for money . However, I can calculate the stresses in a truss system and which members are under tension and which are under compression and my reading was not even in mechanical.

 

Took the support back off, the outside of the thimble back off and part of the siding. Working outside today was cold and a strong wind was blowing. I need to open the wall back up and fix a problem that I am only now seeing with the inside wall.

This project will never be finished. I turned the heat down to 49F in the house and I am holed up in my little office room with an electric radiator. The heat still comes on and runs like mad.

 

Not got that far. I think one of the 2x4s got pushed in when the screwing was done. Hopefully an easy fix but work.

I had on work boots and two pairs of heavy socks and my toes are still bothering me now from getting so cold. They are hurting a bit.

 

Don't go gettin' frostbit. Seriously.

 

I've found that two pairs of socks make my toes colder faster.
maybe its too tight. cutting the circulation off?

Either way, be careful and take more breaks

 

I had to take everything back out; the header got pushed in during construction; the glue on the wallboard used during construction had failed and the header had pushed the wall in considerably; a long level easily showed the bow in the wall. Another problem that went unnoticed was that the top part of the stud we cut pushed inward on the wall; possibly a bow that created stress. I managed to get that stud pushed back in place and secured with the header. I was able to reused the 2x4s we cut for the framing so that was a blessing in not having to make cuts. I had to make a new spacer that we put behind the outside section of the thimble. The Selkirk thimble is designed for a 2.x4 wall, with drywall on the interior and sheathing on the outside. However, the sheathing on this manufactured home is the thin stuff allowed by code; therefore, the thimble was too wide. To compensate, I cut a square out of a piece of OSB and then cut a circle out larger than the thimble. This spacer is screwed to the wall and then the outside section of thimble put in place. When I put it back together, the outside part was 1/4 inch over than original; of course the inside hole stayed in the same position so it must have been due to the framing not correctly position. This resulted in the a section of the siding to the right being too short, and the section to the left being too long. However, it is all closed back in so if the rains come, let them come. The support bracket is not back in place yet and I am sure that I will have to re-level everything again. More cold days are coming and it still looks as if I won't have my stove in place.

 

I think I have the support plate ready to go. I got the new replacement tee so have been working on the chimney the last couple of days. Yesterday was a running day to fetch materials. I had to shim out the plate from the support bracket I made. I went to Tractor Supply and found some flat aluminium bar the same width as the angle I used. The nice thing about aluminium is that it is easy to mill. I cut it to length using my small chop saw (a $10 steal from TSC) and drilled the holes to match the support plate. The flat bar raised the support tee the height I needed so that the tee aligned better in the thimble so it would sit level. The funny thing is the gap in the outside of the thimble is at the bottom and the gap in the inside of the thimble is at the top. I don't really understand why since the inside slides into the outside and one would think they would be in alignment. However, this whole Selkirk thimble is poorly designed in my opinion. Tomorrow I will add a 36" section of pipe to the tee and see about connecting the support band to the wall; I think I am going to have issues with that and if so more delay in getting the chimney completed.

 

Today I finished installing the brackets for the wall band. DexterDay fabricated some wall brackets for me; no charge (Thanks again DexterDay) I had to drill the holes and my small table top drill press could not do the job so I had to drill by hand; that was a bit of a job. The holes were not all in the same location but I think they will be OK. Got them bolted to the wall and then will use another piece of the slotted angle steel from bracket to bracket. The wall band will then bolt to the angle steel. I have a roof strap to help stablise the chimney above the roof. I might just be able to get the chimney finished tomorrow. The only thing is that I am a little bit nervous about being up on the roof and close to the edge.

The only thing that has me puzzled is that the one foot section of pipe that goes under the support can not be banded in place so it could twist out when removing the cap during cleaning. Another thing about the Selkirk Supervent that does not make sense. Plus, the chimney just sits on the tee, no mechanical fastener; I am guessing it is just the weight of the chimney to hold it in place.

 

That's the way they are ,same with a ceiling box , chimney just sits on it, no mechanical fastener