15,000 Mile Oil Change Interval

This oil life indicator thing (which again, is new to me) is really interesting. If I ever end up with a vehicle that has it I would love to have an oil analysis done when it says the oil is at 0%. Obviously no system is perfect and they have undoubtedly included a factor of safety. It would be interesting though to see how it compares since what I read at the link I posted earlier explains some complicated algorithm based on how you drive and all of the surrounding internal and external conditions (at least one of two types of indicator systems does). I bet it would be pretty impressive how close they can get!

 

TBN = total base number. It measures the ability of an oil to counteract acid that builds up due to combustion. Amsoil has the highest TBN of the major oils and is one reason their oils do not go on sale.

 

Oil that is 'getting dirty faster' is a good thing. What you are seeing is the dirt particles that result from combustion suspended in the oil instead of deposited in your engine also know as sludge and varnish and so forth. It is the detergents in the oil that cause the dirt to be suspended and the larger particles trapped in the oil filter. That is a good thing. Oil does not cause and engine to run cleaner (without contaminants) but actually render them harmless to your engine. Good Luck!

 

That sounds about right on! The little engines today are working hard even though smooth and quiet they are doing a lot of work on just little gas. Just like our better halves - happy wife - happy life. Oil good - car happy!

 

I believe you misunderstood - that was in reference to a question about how often I recharge my engine intake air filter which means cleaning it and re-applying the oil.

 

In trouble again! lol

 

Sorry my bad.

 

Most engine wear occurs within the first few seconds of startup. The faster oil gets to the top end, the less things wear.

 

Yes totally true. I am very impressed with the new Ford 2.7l Ecoboost engine. Both the oil and the coolant go to the top end first and then to the rest of the motor. The turbos get lubricated and cooled right off then the rest of the engine gets looked after. Ford is doing things right and calls for 7500 mile oil changes and Motorcraft 5w30 Ford spec oil every 6 months also. I got one and its a beast. Dan, if you want to see how far engines have come in the last 10 years or so take one for a test ride and kick it down. The only thing the big V8 boys know about these trucks is what the tail lights look like. I follow their interval to the letter as I am sure they know how to service the engine better than I do.

 

Ok so this begs the question...do you let the engine warm before driving?...how long?...how warm?...I was taught the best way to warm an engine is with moderate driving...that idling the engine till warm takes longer and causes more wear. Even when very cold, start the engine and start driving within 30-60 seconds.

 

In really cold weather (15 to 35 below zero and plugged in) I let it warm a few minutes then drive easy until the engine indicator begins to move. If just cold and not plugged in I let it run maybe a minute then go easy for the next bit until the heater throws a bit of heat. In no case do i work the engine hard unless at proper operating temp. Engines and all the components made of different metals expand at different rates as they heat so gradual minimizes possible chance of damage such as stretched head bolts. Had a GM that cost 2,000 bucks to repair due to that and it was just 1 head. They are a common problem in really cold climates. I guess what I'm saying is cold is a relative term. My cold and your cold may be 40 degrees different.

 

I wouldn't lose any sleep over a K&N for a naturally aspirated engine. It seems like the issues are with turbo charged engines, which I can see specs of dust creating huge issues when you're spinning those turbo's at 200,000 RPM! I have no plans on taking mine out of my car.

 

I heard someone complain about their diesel oil being dirty after running the truck once. It's job is to keep everything suspended instead of dirt being laying in places. Some of these oils do worse than others.

 

I run my toyotas 6-9000 thats my 2001 3.0l highlander and my 04 sequoia 4.8. Birth run mobil 1 and purorlator or wix filter usually.

The only thing I would do if I went that far would be to swap my oil filter 7500-10000 miles. Make sure to add make up oil .

My work truck is a 2012 chevy colorado 5cylinder. The computer on it will always throw the oil change light right at like 9500 miles.

 

Sure. But if you only go that many mikes I would just use quality dino oil.

 

Uggg turned into a used motor oil for bar oil thread

 

we run K&N filters on almost all our vehicles....i dont worry too much about what gets past the filter but i removed it from the powerchoke....dusted the turbo wheel and decided it wasnt worth it. made up my own cold air intake with 4" exhaust pipe and a massive donaldson pleated paper filter. no issues and the filter minder on it hasnt moved in 2 yrs of running it vs i had to clean the K&N every 6 months or so because it got so dirty it would collapse the filter when revving it

 

I envy you guys who are able to do these mods. Not my forte.

 

Only wrench I'd throw in your oil analysis experiment is you're conducting these measurements on a well broke in engine.
You shouldn't expect to see wear metals unless the vehicle sits for extended periods and starts "dry" or already had the beginning's of mechanical failure.
Maybe you can pick the brains at the oil analysis lab on what new engines see in wear metals and how that tapers off through full break in.

I'm curious what kind of oil consumption you're seeing in 15k changes?
My Northstar Caddy had the OLM set @12k and drank Mobil 1 like a sailor(low tension rings that carbon locked easily) It suffered from nstar headbolt failure long before any engine wear

 

I have a toyota highlander 2001 with the 3.0L v6. I burn right at a qt in 7500 miles. In the last few years there is a tad leaked. Not much I dont leave oil spots that I know of but in the last year have just noticed it seeping out of the valve covers. Not bad just that oily looking metal you get from an oil leak.

We got it at 85,000 miles and it has had nothing but mobile 1 5w30 since then, at 6000-9000 mile intervals. Either the normal formulation or high mileage when available at my walmart.
It has like 173,000 now