Fahrenheit Endurnace 50F Project

Hey, I am playing catch up. I can't believe your still getting blockage out of the furnace. Your flame pic looks great, looks like it should be a hot fire.
Yes your right about level 1 being draft trim, just not sure if it will fix the dirty glass since the burn is excellent. Not going to adjust it if it's not worth it. I clean the glass every week when I vacuum the furnace. I have gone 2 weeks without vacuuming but prefer good maintenance practice.

 

A little off topic, can the distribution fan motor be lubricated? Haven't seen any oil ports!

 

Have to give the other guys a shake and get them to chime in.

Yes, those two holes are what I am thinking of blocking. BUT, only on the back plate part, so the air would still be able to get to the main channel of these two holes via up through the bottom of the back plate and down through the top of the back plate. The thought is I'd draw more hot air over the heat exchanger tubes. Please note, I would not block these holes completely, maybe 25%.

 

I'll be honest, I really didn't think I'd find more crap back behind that plate. But I cleaned it again as everyone was very adamant that it must be blocked. Well, jokes on me, there was more debris. All I can figure is the heat got it to come loose during one of the test burns.

Yeah, the flame is looking much better. Still lacking some heat from the distribution blower, but I'm making headway.

Let me know how you make out with you settings on heat level 1 and getting it to burn clean. I'll have to go through the same issues once I get there.

 

I have done it in the past on motors but in my experience, if there aren't any oil ports, most of the oil doesn't get where it needs to be. That being said, if you can pull the motor and stand it in such a was as to allow the oil to run into the bearings, you may be able to do it.

 

If you block those holes 100% it will probably do nothing. It might channel it's way to the bottom opening unless it's still blocked
Better not be

 

That's good to know. Can the motor be rotated to the top for easy access? I will look into it further while it's diwn for a rest, pending on weather.

 

Good to hear there are oil ports for the distribution motor. Might pull it and oil it then. I've been trying to see the air path and it's hard to get the full picture, so you make a good point that having it out will allow me a better idea of the air path.

 

That's why I was thinking of only closing them of a small percentage.

 

Do it with the smoke test. And if you can remove the ash pan to better see where it's going. Just put a plexiglass in front of ash pan door opening while you have no heat in there.

 

Air path if I remember is split in two channels.

 

That was my concern in doing it, that it would restrict air and put me back into a vey dirty burn.

I understand that the exchangers are only 50% of my heat, but they seem more like 80% of the heat right now. I don't find that there is any heat coming off the channels that run up the side of the firebox. Have you ever checked this air? To see how hot that portion gets?

I remember you flipped that bottom deflector in the front. My buddy and I played around with it on Saturday, and we actually added in a piece of a tine to the door that helps deflect the air up the face of the fire box until I can get the deflector mounted.

Oh well. It was just a thought to try and push more heat through the exchanger tubes. Back to cleaning after training!

 

Are you having a hard time getting into the back panel to clean? You're not the only one You have to think out loud to find useful fabricated tools. If you can get hold of a 3/8" towing stranded wire about 2-3' and make the end strands coming undone like a bad hair day. You can push it up/down or even attach it to a drill and go to town, The right side of the back panel has to be cleaned also but it's a smaller channel. Like I said, you have to be creative to make tools that works around the back panel and hex tubes, etc.., Good time to put the beer to work

 

Using braided steel cable is a great idea!. I actually used a chunck of BX cable and buggered up the outer jacket to make a cleaning tool. I'll try a piece of cable though. I think it will work better. Thanks!

 

True, as much as I try, the air will always take the path of least resistance. I guess I am over htinking this.

You make a great point about the screws though. They never even entered my mind as a potential spot that the stove may be leaking. I'll have to smoke test the WHOLE stove again when I get home.

As for the ash pan, I didn't dollar bill test it, but I did smoke test it and there were no signs of leakage. What test do you put more faith in for being the best test of leakage?

I have room in the damper that I can open it more to create a hotter fire, maybe this is what I need to do. As I said, I'll have to rest the heat outputs when I get home and check with the anemometer I orered, which should arrive while I am away.