In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

Fahrenheit Endurnace 50F Project

Discussion in 'Pellet Stoves, Pellet Fireplaces, Pellet Furnaces' started by BAN83, Sep 24, 2015.

  1. BAN83

    BAN83

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    Here's hoping you have it dialed in now. You burn the Curran's I gave you yet?
     
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  2. ivanhoe

    ivanhoe

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    Nope! I will let the Cubex run out today and I'll put them in:D
     
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  3. ivanhoe

    ivanhoe

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    Where did you order the Manometer? I had one lined up from kijiji but failed through, it was on the otherside of Ottawa. I see Amazon has the digital ones, might order one. You might have to make a hole somewhere to hook it up.
     
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  4. BAN83

    BAN83

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    Nice, I haven't burned the Cubex you gave me yet either. Trying to decided what unit to burn them in. As much as I want to try them in the 50F, they might be a nice treat for the P61.

    I haven't ordered anything yet. What I was looking at buying was a flow meter, an anemometer. Not a manometer. Might look at getting both. But the anemometer I am going to buy from staples. I'll place the order today.
     
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  5. ivanhoe

    ivanhoe

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    Wasn't aware Stooples sold stuff like that!
     
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  6. CleanFire

    CleanFire

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    Right off the vertical rise above the furnace heat exchanger / before the distribution box, it's basically direct furnace air on that branch, maybe 6 feet of pipe total to the floor register. It's Toasty.

    Once you get air dialed-in, next step is to start -slowing- air down, in very small increments, to keep air in the firebox as long as possible to provide better secondary burn -> and heat exchange. (This is where the IR gun is helpful to measure firebox temp., along w/ heat exchange exit temps.)

    Draft and fuel trims in stove back to (0), setting 3, start backing damper screw down in -very small- increments.

    Or use draft trim setting in control panel, observe heat exchanger exit temps.

    If I read correctly, your furnace has multiple room air (distribution) blower RPM settings - choosing the lowest room blower setting will make a marked improvement in exit temp at the exchanger, given you are currently setup in 'stove' mode. *I'd experiment with that.

    re: exchanger tubes, be careful w/ those, again, fine grit sandpaper (22o or higher), no need to mar or scratch a tube when rehabbing..

    Best burn profile / hottest temps. here allow for the stove to clear ash out of the deep burn pot, provide lively flame with visible smoke from flame tips, good swirl on smoke towards glass -> directed back towards burnpot,

    and hazy smoke film on glass, begins forming 2-3 hours into burn, increasing steadily throughout 24 burn duration, light grey (not soot), and easily wiped off glass when stove is shut down w/ a damp paper towel (no scrubbing needed).

    I'm a happy guy when I see smoke film on the front stove glass, that means the stove is getting good secondary burn, that really kicks up the firebox / exchanger temps. here.

    * Finding the balance between keeping that smoke in the firebox for secondary burn, with enough air to generate hotter temps., vs. pushing that smoke & heat out of the firebox will allow you to use less fuel - and what works best on the stove here.
     
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  7. ZachGrant

    ZachGrant

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    I can't give you a definitive answer on your problem, but I can tell you that an OAK is not going to fix your problem in its entirety. I ran my 50f most of last winter without an OAK and still achieved satisfactory output temps. This is in a brand new house that is sealed up tighter than a rat's azz...
     
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  8. Triple A Arsenal

    Triple A Arsenal

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    Did you install one now? A sealed house is more of a reason to have outside air.
     
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  9. ivanhoe

    ivanhoe

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    Usually a tight azz house has a HRV installed, if not he shouldo_O I'm not saying running without a OAK is ok but it can work too:whistle: If he did and finds things to be more lively then we will have another believer, it can do no wrong:D
     
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  10. DexterDay

    DexterDay Administrator

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    Yeah, the anemometer is what I used/borrowed from the dealer that sold 50F's. My BIL (chbryson) bought their last unit when they quit selling stoves.

    His is burning dirty as well, even after the few mods/upgrades we did. But he is buying a bigger motor/impeller and a sail switch. So we should have his running well this season.
     
  11. BAN83

    BAN83

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    Cool. Good to know. Thanks for your input.

    What gen of stove do you have? What temps do you get out of your unit and at what location?
     
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  12. BAN83

    BAN83

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    Yup, online only though. Not in store.
     
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  13. ivanhoe

    ivanhoe

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    I checked them out, $$$
    But you're looking for a anemometer which is more than a manometer. The Curran's are burning now, sticky feeling texture like Enertec? From Rona. Clean burning so far.
     
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  14. BAN83

    BAN83

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    Is there anything else that you can think of that I can do to try and clean up the burn on this unit? I have room too open up the air intake more, which I am going to test while I monitor to see if I am loosing heat up the exhaust.

    Also, and hear me out on this. I was thinking of putting in some restrictor plates in the lower exhaust holes in order to try and force more of the hot air up over the heat exchanger tubes and down the back panel. I would restrict the lower holes by maybe 25%. I'm open to peoples thoughts for and against this idea. Obviously I understand the risk of adding a restriction to air flow which would be counter productive to what I am trying to achieve as far as a clean burn.
     
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  15. BAN83

    BAN83

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    Yeah, the anemometer I am looking to buy is about $180 plus tax. But it's also capable of taking a type K thermocouple. Here's a link. What do you guys think?

    REED LM-8000 Environmental Meter | StaplesĀ®

    Good to hear the Currans are burning clean. What kind of heat are you getting out of them? Also, FYI, I tried burning some Pinnacles, and I am not impressed with them. They are clean, but burn up really quick in both the Harman and 50F.
     
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  16. Triple A Arsenal

    Triple A Arsenal

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    Hey Dex, I am curious about this.....when I switch to T-stat mode obviously the furnace goes down to level 1 when not calling for heat.
    If it's on level 1 for awhile it makes the glass black. The rest of the firebox is grey/white ash color. I normally just see red embers glowing but sometimes when pellets drop I see a small flame. Could that make the glass black where I have to scrape it off? I love to see through a nice clear glass.
     
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  17. BAN83

    BAN83

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    For sure. Going to have to spend a lot of time tuning. I'll do that when I get back from training. I leave in the morning and won't be back until Friday night. Hopefully by then my anemometer will be here.

    I'm not looking forward to it, but I'll also give the heat exchanger tubes a cleaning. :picard:

    Thanks again for all the information you keep providing.
     
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  18. BAN83

    BAN83

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    Not that I am an expert, but isn't the draft trim used at this point to keep a clean burning flame at level one? Sorry, may be off base on this. By the way, did you read over the update I posted a page back?
     
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  19. ivanhoe

    ivanhoe

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    There is a opening at the bottom of the back plate and two holes for the exhaust cavity. You're thinking of blocking the two holes?
     
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  20. ivanhoe

    ivanhoe

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    Zach has the older stove like mine if I remember correctly. Also burning corn and whatever the farmers through is way. He hasn't chimed in since last year just like Triple A Arsenal :D
     
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