A few quick questions- Cross stack your wood only on the ends, then straight stack for the rest? Cross stack for the full length? Depth of splits? 1, 2, 3 rows? Covered or un-covered ? Diameter of rounds you use, and seasoning time for those vs. splits ? There will be more.........
Mix in cross stacks thru the 70 or so foot long stack 2 rows with a space between, lean together at the top to keep the snow out of the middle, & maybe help them stay up thru 80 mph wind & possible earth quakes Would like covered for everything, but 1st year is un-covered the 2 more years in a covered wood port, tight stacked. I split everything, birch. Keep down to about 4"
(3) 8x8x18 square splits on top of a layer of good size splits make for a heck of a burn in the King. I think I must pay for it significantly in dry time but until now have just scrounged and never have enough of one thing to experiment.
No cross stacking...I use end posts (usually a sapling) Depth is one row @ 112' x 2 stacks Uncovered until it goes in the shed Rounds no bigger than about 6", but I don't measure....eyeball, and everything gets the same amount of drying time, which is now about 3 years. None of the Oak rounds have bark when I stack 'em.
-------No cross stacking. Wood goes directly into the woodshed which has adequate side wall support----- -------Cross stacking seems like a lot of extra work? ----Not necessary in the woodshed--- ------ Two rows deep ------ Covered woodshed ------Usually try to keep round and splits sizes 6" D. or less-- ------Most wood is pre-seasoned (<20% MC), if not then 4" D. or less--
Cross stack your wood only on the ends, then straight stack for the rest? Only the ends. Cross stack for the full length? Depth of splits? 1, 2, 3 rows? 2 or 3 rows. I have limited space. Covered or un-covered ? This spring I will cover what I can. Diameter of rounds you use, and seasoning time for those vs. splits ? Getting away from rounds, only bringing it home if it's big enough to split.
Cross-stack (crib) the ends because I don't have enought pallet book-ends yet. 3 rows deep=48 in.= pallet width Top cover because a lot of my wood is pre-seasoned lodgepole pine I only split rounds that are too big to go in the stove door, longer burn from unsplit rounds.
Cross stack your wood only on the ends, then straight stack for the rest? I stack in the field in between standing trees. Cross stack for the full length? Depth of splits? 1, 2, 3 rows? 1 row Covered or un-covered ? I need to top cover or build a wood port. Diameter of rounds you use, and seasoning time for those vs. splits ? Now that I'm 4 years ahead, I'll keep 8" rounds.
I use t-post for my stacks. Our better wood that we'll use is stacked 2 deep Our Cherry we use will be stacked 3 - 5 rows deep I just top cover At the moment we have what I call holding zones, they can be 4 to 8 rows deep
Cross-stacking at the ends and then every 15 feet. My stacks are usually 6' tall, so the cross stacking helps with stability.
Used to cross stack the ends with single rows on 4x4 or smaller pine tree trunks . Was easier with 20 inch long splits. Now I'm doing sixteens and the stacks just don't stay standing nice. Especially with a little height. The only flat place here is part of my driveway and the floor in the house, bricks, blocks and shims are a PITA so now I'm stacking double rows on pallets . Also trying t-posts stacking on long 4x4, problem with t-posts here is the ground is gravel with huge rocks - even putting up a fence can be a major pita. T-posts are double rows, maple on one row, pine on the adjacent. ( I was out of pallets ) Also have some stacks up on blocks and the blocks have a tendency to settle oddly ... so, a little of everything ...
I use a mixture of all those choices. Some stacks are cribbed only on the ends, some are cribbed on the ends and doubly on the middle (if parts of the stack are for different years). Some stacks are ended with posts. Most stacks are single with 10' between but one of'em is a double with 18" between. And you know what?? It all works fine. Oh yeah, and a mixture of top-covered and a few not.
But let's not get started on putting splits bark-up or bark-down. No compromise there at all. Up only period. LOL
Dennis those are some meticulous stacks. I have no flat area to split unless I do it about 200 yards from the house and its a nasty hill to get the wood up there. So my stacks are on an incline. But I make do.
I dont have a front porch Dennis. I do store some in front of the house but only on days like today when its -2 and snowy. Just for the week's use not permanent storage.
Generally t-post on ends. Usually single rows. Don't cover at all. Rounds from 2" to 4", otherwise split larger ones.
Cribbed ends only, I still play with 'Legos'. 3 or even 6 rows wide. I put 3 rows of 16" splits on a pallet. The last load I doubled up the pallets due to space. Covered, tarps over scrounged plywood pieces. Tarps alone are a big mess. If it doesn't need splitting it belongs in a chipper. I get wood from tree guys, what can I say. I also put 8-10" or so under the wood for plenty of circulation which I think is crucial with tight stacking. Stack it tight and circulation is reduced. Wet air is heavier, heavier air sinks. My pallets on square iron on top of 6x and 4xs. E pallets don't rot out so the wood must benefit also.
