In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

Fahrenheit Endurnace 50F Project

Discussion in 'Pellet Stoves, Pellet Fireplaces, Pellet Furnaces' started by BAN83, Sep 24, 2015.

  1. ivanhoe

    ivanhoe

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    If you have to use compressed air, just wrap a tarp around the working area like a tent and vacuum running. Don't forget to wear a face mask.
     
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  2. Triple A Arsenal

    Triple A Arsenal

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    I think you need outside air,you might have negative pressure causing poor flame and you need a straight up and out vent and go from there.
    Furnace need to breathe better.
     
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  3. ivanhoe

    ivanhoe

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    It would be best to have a OAK. The stove upstairs has none and it's running fine. I agree with you on the lazy flame which would be dirtying the stove in due time. It's the distribution air is the problem at this moment, firebox is hot but not the air. He can try to run some temporary piping for the OAK to further troubleshooting to eliminate this possibility:yes:
     
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  4. Triple A Arsenal

    Triple A Arsenal

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    Yeah I am still trying to see how the firebox can be hot but not blowing out the defuser. I mean that's right on top. Unless the firebox isn't as hot as it seems, Maybe weak pellets.
     
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  5. DexterDay

    DexterDay Administrator

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    180° air temps are good temps for the furnace if the blower has been running.

    I think its making good heat, it's just not going where it should go (through the HVAC system). My furnace on average is 160°-170° on level 3. But that's a clean furnace and a good pellet.

    180° is HOT!! If everyone here was to measure what their LP, Gas, oil, or Electric furnace air temps were? They would not be 180°.
     
  6. Triple A Arsenal

    Triple A Arsenal

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    Where are you guys measuring it, I have an ambient air probe. I'll measure mine.
     
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  7. Triple A Arsenal

    Triple A Arsenal

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    I thought it's not hooked to anything? Isn't it a standalone with diffuser ?
     
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  8. ivanhoe

    ivanhoe

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    I know when my oil furnace is on, the plenum is f'ing hot compared to the Fahrenheit's. Now you got me thinking of adding duct thermometers everywhere:whistle: I know when I worked at the steam plant, we would take magnehelic readings at different passes to verify blockage. Would be nice if stoves did the same for troubleshooting.
     
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  9. ivanhoe

    ivanhoe

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    Yes it is!
     
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  10. BAN83

    BAN83

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    The unit is a stand alone at the moment. Not going to hook it into the ducting until I see better performance out of it.

    I know it's not negative pressure. One, my house isn't sealed that well. Two there is an air intake for the propane unit not far away that would allow air into the basement. Three I tried opening a window up and the burn is the same.

    That being said, cooler outside air would probably help the burn, but I keep thinking I should be seeing better performance without the OAK. Do they really make that much difference?

    You say up and out. What you see in my pics for venting is only part of it. It goes into a full chimney after it goes through the wall.
     
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  11. BAN83

    BAN83

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    I keep forgetting to bring home my IR gun from work. I'll try and remember tomorrow and then I'll take readings from the fire box.

    I was thinking pellets as they aren't great pellets that I'm burning but I tried a different brand and they weren't any better heat or burn wise either. Plus, both brands have burned well in my P61.

    I need to point out that I am fighting two issues, which may well be one in the same. They are, I have a large flame but poor heat out of the furnace. If you look where I too the temp reading I'd be lucky if I have 110 - 120 F. Two, the flame I have is dirty.
     
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  12. ivanhoe

    ivanhoe

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    Someone mentioned that my Harman attached to a 23ft outside chimney could make it not burn right! Maybe you're having the same effect?
     
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  13. BAN83

    BAN83

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    Everyone with a 50F on here says 160 F min is what this unit should produce at the plenum So this is what I am shooting for to call this furnace properly functioning.

    I'm starting to worry that my chimney setup is part of my issue. I really hope it isn't as I have a lot of money into it.

    I think you're correct in saying it isn't going where it needs to. Going to give it the third go at cleaning the back panel area tomorrow. Couldn't get time today and can't do it with the g/f sleeping.

    Dex, I posted pics of the burn pot mods I did. Could you look back and see if maybe I closed off too much?
     
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  14. ivanhoe

    ivanhoe

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    Infrared reader needs a black dot to take accurate readings, no shinny chrome or galvanize.
     
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  15. BAN83

    BAN83

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    That is what I worry about. I called and talked to the OEM though before doing it and they said it'd be fine. But I'm sure getting worried.

    Does your Harman going into a 23 ft outside chimney? If so, how does it work?
     
  16. BAN83

    BAN83

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    Yup, has to be a black body. Anything else changes the emissivity. I've done a lot with IR equipment at work.
     
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  17. ivanhoe

    ivanhoe

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    3" to 4" adapter to a T then up about 6' then 90 to a 4" to 7" adapter out to 12" then a T up 23'
    Outside Selkirk 7" wood chimney
     
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  18. ivanhoe

    ivanhoe

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    I was gonna take my ash cap off the outside T to see if it helps any, I'm not there yet to fire it up. I still got to fix my door leak.
     
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  19. ivanhoe

    ivanhoe

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    Did you ever tried your stove outside before bringing it in the house?
     
  20. BAN83

    BAN83

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    I wonder if the 7" allows better flow? When I talked to the OEM they recommended the 4".
     
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