Been noticing something this year

I'm pretty quick like that.
Anyway, I added a total of about 3' of Class A to the flue before this winter, and I've noticed a change in the burn.
Flue temps are higher, on average.
Anybody else notice this fee-nom-ee-non? I know you have. Come on, fess up.
I also got a new door gasket. The old one checks out ok, but it seems like it's bottoming out when I close the door. Just seems like the stove wants to run away a bit, more recently, and I'm not sure if it's the colder temps, the gaskets, the pipe, or a combo.


ETA: Jeez, can a mod fix the title please. See it? DOH!
Evidently, not so quick like that.

 

I'm almost thinking adding another section of pipe, creating a better draft , pulling harder on the stove might show up minor air leaks while trying to close down the draft,,,, that the shorter previous pipe length didn't? I added 4 feet to my Esse cookstove, and didn't really notice any flue gas temp changes.... just a little nicer to load with a better draft..

 

I agree with you and I found that was the case with my draft. I have about 26' of pipe running the the peak of the house and I have never had a draft issue here. The draft was too good, it would vacuum up some good air anyway it could...
Changed all the seals and added a damper in order to get longer burn times and better control.

 

I'm thinking of adding a damper to my Progress Hybrid... having a 22 ft insulated liner, I'm thinking I'm pulling extra heat up the pipe, especially with some roaring secondaries, be interesting to see if I could damp my pipe and slow that all down, but not to the point I'm below 400 on my flue gas temps... Then I'd be creating a possible creosote problem

 

My flue temps are already to high. I'd hate to see them higher.

What flue temps are you seeing now?

 

Definitely hotter burns this year and more draft. Must be colder than last year.

 

I see flue temps of 500-550... I would like to bring it down between 400-450 when the stove is at like 500... Think I would have more heat generated per load of wood. Better a hot flue then cold...

 

Makes sense,,, colder out, better draft...

 

I had the glass gasket go bad on me about a year ago and noticed blackening patterns that would appear on every start up. They would burn off at temp. It is starting again, and the glass has a little shimmy to it now.

I installed a key damper for those really cold days when the draft is pulling hard. I do notice more heat is "kept in" and not up the flue.

 

I was up there not too long ago Dennis, and got that feeling.
I had to focus on something farther out than the pipe to regain my equilibrium. Had a vague feeling I might just fall off the roof.
Thanks Scotty.

 

I thing lots of folks are burning hotter than last year.

Be nice to at least have someone around when you climb up there,
Hand you stuff & keep your head in the game.

Can you throw a rope over the roof & tie yourself off ?
Just don't tie the other end of the rope to the bumper of the truck, unless you have the only keys in your pocket.

 

Wife working for the troopers told me about a report years ago where that happened to some poor guy up on the opposite side of his roof, tied off to the family's car.. Wife jumped in the car headed to the store with the poor guy in tow... I can't recall if he died or not... Good safety tip Dave.. keep the keys...

 

Ok I am going to ramble on here for a minute.

If your flue is drawing more then you have more air flow thru your stove putting more heat up your flue. A taller flue will draw more. If you cant shut down your input air any further then you can try the flue damper may help. I suspect that each stove has a sweet spot of how hot your burn with out flushing too much heat up the flue. As you shut down the input air your flue pipe temp should decrease but your stove top temp should increase since heat is being retained in the stove for a longer period of time giving it more time to radiate out into the room rather than flow up the chimney. As the key to these stoves efficiency is by having an insulated firebox and building the heat up it allows the stove to burn at really low input air levels and having these really low input air settings decreases the air flow thru the stove and up the flue to extra low levels this means heat stays in the stove to be radiate out into the room. I think in the old days we associated the burn and the heat to how well the fire was burning as we were allowing so much air into the stove lots of flames but little heat retained and not so long burn time.

I always like to start my stoves with fine split kindling , laying a few pieces on top of the hot coals that I raked forward in the stove. I put large splits in the back filling the stove up as much as I can and put the small split kindling up front on an east west load. The small kindling allows the stove to heat up fast and I can close my input air sooner as t he small stuff burns easier with less input air and having the input air shut down to like half way lets the stove heat up quicker and gets me to where I want to be quicker.

I like to think of the stove in terms of its all about the heat. How can I get the heat built up quicker in the stove and its the small split kindling that allows that as I can shut the input air down and not allow so much of the heat to flush up the flue.

 

I see my flue gas temps matching my stove temps when my Progress Hybrid is cruising,,, so I'm thinking damper... That will give me the best of both worlds I'm thinking,,, strong draft when I need it and slow it down too... If I don't need the damper, I will simply leave it open... I would like to see what it would do sometime... I might even wait until next season to do it...

 

Very good explanation HuntinDog. I run my stove by the flue temps. when the flue is approaching 800' I start tuning down the air. Just like you stated the flue temps drop and the firebox temps go up. Another thing I do is turn the air down almost all the way and then when the flames almost go out, then turn the air up slightly. That seems to set the air just right for a long hot burn.

 

Flue temps, the thing I love to hate, going to write a book on it.
My flue temps are through the roof which must be an over draft but my stove top temps are some what low.
Sucking the heat out of the stove into the flue, is that possible?