Fahrenheit Endurnace 50F Project

I have access to compressed air. Just wasn't sure about trying to use it in the house and what the effects may be mess wise haha. At this point I'm willing to try anything though.

No, in stand alone mode parts 21 and46 are still in place. They are an access point for cleaning the tops of the heat exchanger tubes. If that plate is removed during operation smoke will pour into the house.

The back plate Ivanhoe is talking about is in the stove at the back and runs top to bottom. The #20 plates you mention, are in the top of the stove below the heat exchanger tubes. If the stove is running properly the exhaust gas goes up through the holes in the #20 plates, across the heat exchanger tubes and down through the cavity between the back of the stove and the back plate Ivanhoe is mentioning. Then the exhaust then goes into a channel and out through the combustion blower.

No such thing as off base. Any discussion/question is all good. Discussion leads to thinking about the issue and tends to bring out ideas or thoughts about what the problem is. I know some of the fixes I come up with at work are the result of explaining the function of a machine to someone and then realizing what I was missing.

Disclaimer: Hopefully the manual I looked at had the part numbers the same as the one you were looking at so we were talking about the same parts!

 

Going to give it another go over tomorrow. Figured I better not tonight. The g/f might not like all the noise while she is trying to sleep!

 

I'm happy or fortunate I'm not going through the problems you're having. Going back to the smoke test, also try it with the two deflector removeable plates underneath the tubes removed. You should see the smoke better in the back. Try using a flashlight to see the smoke better.

 

Yeah. I'm starting to get a little mad. I've got a pile of hours and $$$ into this unit and as it stands now it's not working well enough to heat the house. Oh well. I'll give it till the end of the winter to get it tuned and working. If it's not capable of producing heat by winters end then it's going to the scrap yard and I'll buy a different brand.

 

It will work soon enough, there's got to be something holding you back. We'll keep picking away at it towards a functional furnace. Patience will be needed so roll up your sleeves. I know, I know, they've been rolled up awhile now. Just a little bit longer Nothing left in the new chimney like a rag.......

 

Smart call, ban83.

A painter's tarp or three will help w/ any fallout from the stove.. I'd go medieval on it. Beat it with a hammer, and blow it's jets out.

Same part #'s, have a much better understanding of the combustion airflow now, Thanks.

** That back channel / the plate ivanhoe mentioned, running from the heat exchange tubes -> down to the combustion motor housing: that's where I found the -most- debris in our stove when rehabing - stove here has a similar airflow / chamber design.

(Off-topic warning As received, the stove here had been badly over-fed, and over-fired for 283 hours (on the run clock), originally belonged to a former stove dealer, kept for his personal use, sat in a cabin in VT for several years, cabin was sold -> stove gifted to his daughter, electronic control panel was damaged during transit, stove defaulted back to (50hz) European defaults, she couldn't access settings due to the control panel issue, decided to run stove anyway, motors did not work properly (expecting 50hz power on 60hz US power), auger, combustion, and room air motors either did not run, or ran at full-tilt: it's a wonder the stove wasn't damaged beyond repair. Stove was caked up / gummed up pretty bad when it got here. Internals (motors, firebox, burnpot, etc) condition was amazing, like new. Fortunately I'm handy w/ electronics, and was able to repair the control panel damage.

Back on topic:

Compressed air, plastic scrapers, plastic rods, 1/4" (6 mm) pieces of wood finish moulding, brass cleaning brushes, and an assortment of brass wire wheel, wire cup, and wire end drill attachments were all in the cleaning arsenal here, along with healthy amounts of penetrating lubricant (PB Blaster), and Non-Chlorinated Brake Cleaner. (Only 'hard-metal' used was a dull razor blade, and dull screwdriver, sparingly.)

Did I mention the painter's tarps?

If you use plastic, or wood and hit resistance, don't be afraid to give it a 'push' to punch-through any carbon buildup - if you use a material that is softer than the stove construction for cleaning (wood or plastic), you won't damage the stove, it's sturdy metal after all.

Don't get discouraged ban, lots of folks here rooting for you to get it running well.

 

HAHA, yeah I know. I'm pretty stubborn so it'll take a lot to get me to throw in the towel. And yeah, the sleeves are fully rolled up.

Nothing left in the chimney. I installed, screwed and taped every section myself.

Might need a lot of over the holidays while I keep playing with it.

 

CleanFire,

Thanks. I hope I can get it figured. And yes, I have already pulled a lot of debris from the back panel area in my stove as well. I'm just thinking I may have missed some with what everyone is saying.

I took Ivanhoe's advice and did some smoke testing tonight. Some of the smoke goes up through the baffle plates, but it looks like most of it wants to go down in front of the burn pot. I'm not sure what the ration of air flow should be. I'm thinking you want most of it to go up so the heat passes over the exchanger tubes?? Ivanhoe?? What are your thoughts?

Going to give it hell tomorrow. I'll report back if I find anything in behind the back panel.

Yup, I'm a smart one. I like the family jewels right where they are. Had I tried cleaning the stove again tonight the g/f most like would have seen them parted from my body.

Good work by the way on overhauling your unit. Sounds like it was quite the project!

 

The following are some pics of what I am currently getting from my stove. I was running it on heat setting 5, with the distribution fan running on low. I have a video of the flame, but not sure how to upload it here. Help would be appreciated.

 

Thanks. It was a labor of love, Oct. & Nov. '14 was much different vs. this year.. I knew we had to make a major change - life's too short to be cold, miserable, and stressing out over conserving oil. Let's just say I was 'highly motivated.'

Here's a link to the plastic tubing I used: it's flexible & durable enough to punch through most buildup:
30" Sink & Toilet Water Supply Tube (34313) at Aubuchon Hardware

re, videos: I don't think you can direct-post or upload to the site, you may have to upload it to youtube, then use the (Media) link to point to that video URL, with the [media icon], 5th from the right side.

 

So my smoke test works, good to know for troubleshooting measures I'm not sure on how the ash pan is made on yours but mine has two angled chutes on sides of firebox to direct ashes into the ash pan, are yours still there?

 

Do you normally run the OAK? And removed it for pics?

Don't give up , I was frustrated when mine was new because I could have lit a better fire outside lol then what I saw in the firebox. But these guys here are where you need to be. RULE OUT NOTHING unless you tried it.
Have you measured your heat output with something accurate yet?
Being that your using a defuser, you should feel great heat in that basement.

 

I also notice you have 3, 45 degree bends in your exhaust Before it exits.

 

Thanks. I'll see about picking one up. Never made it to the stove today. Decided I needed to finish some paint work in what is going to be the mechanical room. But the work I did last night seems to be providing some clues.

I've never posted anything on Youtube. Might have to if I want to show this video though.

 

Yeah it seemed to help. I never did it from the air intake, but I did it right in the fire box to see where the smoke went. As I mentioned, a lot of it seems to want to go down in from of the burn pot. Also, some of it seems to just roll around in the main firebox area. Any thoughts?

Which angle pieces are you referring to? The ones that bolt to the stove beside the burn pot?

 

I haven't OAK'd this stove yet. Do you think that's part of my issue?

I know I need to make sure I try everything suggested unless I know 200% it's not an issue. That's why I'm going to check the back panel passage for a third time to make sure it's clear.

If you look at the pictures above I put a thermometer I had into the diffuser and I'm not even making enough heat to break the 130 degree F mark on heat setting 5.

Yes, I used 45's to eliminate horizontal sections and to provide better flow over using 90's. Do you think they are adding too much restriction?

 

I'm sure the OAK will not help any, open a window downstairs slightly and if the flame changes; that could be the problem but I would wager it will not be! I would try the smoke bit at the inlet so it follows the whole air path. If you're worried of smoke in the house, somewhat hooded towards the inlet pipe. It should suck it through with ease. Those two chutes are on each side of the outer fire box wall angled downwards towards the ash pan.

 

Using compressed air, going from either side (Heat Exchanger -> panel passage, Combustion motor housing -> panel passage) may give you good feedback on the condition of the passage openings..

 

Yup. Those two side plates are installed. Dex was after me about that a while back and I got them installed.

Yeah, going to have to try feeding smoke in to the air inlet and see what's going on. I'll play with that tonight. Just about to head to work now.

I'm going to see if I can find a unit to measure air flow as well. I want to make sure I have enough overall air flow through the inlet before I get carried away. Once I do this I know for sure it's a issue with air flow through the stove. Right now I'm questions everything including the fact I'm not feeding enough air into the stove. I'm actually worried my venting is providing too much restriction.

And when I was running the stove this morning I had a window upstairs open. No difference in the stove performance.

 

If I have any blockages, it's the back panel area. I'm 100% certain beyond a doubt the other passages are clear as I had everything ripped right down. The back panel area is the only spot where it's kind of a guessing game.