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Welcome to the forum Nicholas. For sure the wood in the garage has not dried because of lack of air flow. If there is space all around the wood you could try setting a couple big fans blowing right on the stacks and see if that may help but it sounds as if you have some good wood outdoors already. A few things I'd like to comment on but first let me say that most folks have told you the basics and have told you correctly. Here is something you may want to read and you can also choose to download it. Just click on this link: Primer on Woodburning by Backwoods Savage | Firewood Hoarders Club Another thing is that almost everyone is telling you to stack your wood on pallets. Personally, I hate pallets. They mostly look terrible and I've seen folks get hurt walking on them. We just cut some saplings in the woods, lay down 2 and start stacking the wood. It works just fine and you don't have to worry about width; that is, how many rows will fit on a pallet, etc. Or you can even sacrifice some of the splits by laying them down in 2 rows and stack on them. When the wood is gone, then throw those sacrificed pieces on top of the next pile and they will dry out so you can burn them the following year if desired. As for covering or not covering. We've experimented. For many, many moons we cut wood in winter, split in March or April and stack right after splitting. We then leave the wood uncovered that first summer and fall because we feel we get better evaporation of moisture with it uncovered. However, before the snow piles up, we then top cover. The cover for the wood can vary. Tarps are usually the poorest method but it can work. Usually doesn't look too nice, but we've done it. Perhaps the best way if using tarps is to cover with something hard, even plywood then put the tarp on top of that. You'll still have to fasten the tarp to keep it from going to the neighbor's. Much better is to use roofing like old galvanized roofing, fiberglass or rubber roofing. One can many times scrounge what is needed so no cost involved. You will still need to fasten the material down either with screws, weight the roofing down with splits or uglies or even use ropes with weights on both ends of the rope so a weight on each side of the stack. Whatever is needed to keep the roofing in place. And of course, only top cover; don't cover the sides or ends at all. I've said it many times and still do. Wood is not a sponge. Many worry about wind blown rain and snow hitting the sides of the stacks. Don't worry a bit about that. It will only be surface moisture and will dry really quick once the wind starts blowing as it usually does after a rain. Those folks in really wet areas, especially the Pacific NW may have to top cover the wood as soon as it has been stacked but most can get away with leaving it uncovered that first summer. But what about leaving the wood totally uncovered until ready to burn? Good question and there are many varied answers. Some disagree with me but methinks it is mostly because they have done it that way for so long and it works. But please let me explain. Some years ago after reading many folks who scoffed at the need to top cover the wood. So, because I had not done this for so long, I decided it was time for us to try that method again. Yes. It worked. The wood dried just fine and nothing turned punky. However, in the end I decided to not let it dry as long as most of our wood dried. Why? Because of the condition of the wood. To make a long story short, we burned that wood through the winter and was very happy when it was gone. It was dry but I can state without a doubt there was not as much heat in that wood as the wood that had been covered. It simply was not the quality of wood we are accustomed to burning. So that will no doubt be our last experiment with not covering wood. We put up a new barn a few years ago so now we do move wood into the barn during October and that is what we burn in winter. This way I don't have to shovel snow and ice off the wood when getting it from the pile. The pictures below tell a story. These pictures were taken on Christmas several years ago. You can imagine what it was like getting wood that winter (we then got wood once per week from the stack to the porch).
Hey hey! You got it to work So, let's have some narration about the pics? Garage is the "wet?" Shoot, I see pallets!
nice pics Nicholas62388 .. I don't know where bucks county is. but your pics show at most 2 cord.. so I hope your south of me.. just an FYI with no disrespect to others and because I've met him. Backwoods Savage, Dennis is a modest guy but has probably forgotten more than I know about wood!.. So follow his advice get your wet wood out your dry wood outside in and get to cutting and keep asking questions your split size and lengths are fine if they fit well in your stove.
Well said Canuckborder Vermont buddy Met Dennis and Judy at Dex's place in May. Great folks, sage advice giver!
Sorry this was first time uploading pics lol....The wood outside is obvy the grey stuff i was talking about, thats been out there for 2 years at least...The one pic with the OPTIMA banner is the wood from garage thats been in there for 1.5-2 years, that is still wet when burned.
Bucks county is the Philadelphia area in PA. If not in pa idk.... Nicholas62388 your grey weathered wood looks COMPLETELY NORMAL to me. That's how mine looks when I take it from my stacks to my shed. Try a few pieces... On a side note you should buy a moisture meter, cheap at Home depot, lowes, and harbor freight. When you use it make sure you make a fresh split and align the pins along the grain of the wood... Good luck buddy.
thank you, i actually looked at a moisture meter yesterday online someone else had mentioned it...They work well being that your touching the wood with 2 prongs only, your not actually sticking it into the wood. I did bring some to my house to use tonight, didnt use the top layer but alot of wood in the middle did seem wet a little still, so i tried grabbing the dryest sounding wood
Do people always talk about random things in these forum? Idk why people are posting about slippers and stuff?
Nicholas62388. You ARE actually sticking it into the wood on a fresh split. That's why the probes are VERY pointy and sharp. The deeper you can push it in the more accurate your measurement will be.
Did I remember the wrong member? You went out to get the morning paper and took a pic on the ground and your slippers and black socks were in it?
But you do stick it in the wood and be sure to stay in the same grain. I think I'm right. Don't use the things myself. Geeze, I'm slow as others were much quicker than I.