that one has my support. I would leave the batts in place, check for draft, loose fit any drafty areas. Can you add a vapor barrier? might be one on the Batts. The R factor in Batts is really good. Then put up a good drywall and you are good to go. My son did that for us. New walls and ceilings through out the whole place. No visible seams, joints or screw heads. We replaced the window. Love the new ones. Last of the blinds went up today. Pictures went up on the walls. Looking like home now! No curtains anywhere. except on the shower!
Wife hates blinds of any ilk. I think I saw her head swivel around once when I mentioned them. It was scary. All kidding aside, I have a little more sealing to do, then once the windows are in, I can finish insulating, do the drywall, then trim everything and do the wainscoting. I'll be busy for a few minutes on this.
Can you take some temperature readings of the room before and after the new windows? Gooder will not cut it. Wicked warm won't either. I'm really interested in how much you will gain.
Oh, there WILL be gainage. These windows are baaaaaad. To da' bone. Temp readings...hmmm. With a full load in the stove or before? I'm hoping that once both doors, storm doors, and windows are in, the house will be more comfy. I don't know if you remember, but I think I've mentioned that the back door (which is now in our bedroom) is actually a hollow-core interior door. I've put up new door stops and foam, but since the door doesn't close well, it still has air coming in around the periphery. Bedroom gets chilly.
More curious with the stove running if the room is heating quicker and heating the rest of the place better.
Dave, we deal with extreme sustained wind, along with crazy sub zero temps. 16' of the 24' sliding glass window wall is glass. WWW foamed every gap big or small, and used foam board, and foamed around that too. It has served us well Most other walls in the house are fiberglass.
Kind of my thought too. Since doing the attic hatch box, and insulating the SR ceiling, I've seen a noticeable improvement in that regard. Now, since I put the convection deck on the stove, the other end of the house is back up to temp more quickly and stays there longer. The new stuff can only further improve things. Dats a lotta glass. I never made it back into the attic as planned this year. Maybe this winter I can get up there for some more insulating. If I keep this up, I'll have to downsize the stove.
Myself and spray foam just don't get along. Several years ago when redoing my kitchen I bought a can on my lunch break. I didn't want to leave it in the car as it was hot out. I dropped it coming up the back staircase at work, and down the stairs it fell. Cap popped off, the nozzle broke and you can imagine what happened. I spent hours scraping and wire brushing dried foam off the stairs and walls. Lucky for me it was an 'industrial style' back entrance with concrete walls and stairs. Still no fun. Another time I was sealing some gaps around the sill plate in the basement. The plastic nozzle came off while applying it and I got spray foam in my hair. I went to the barber with dried foam in my hair and said 'cut it short'. Each time I had dried foam on my fingers for days. I came to the realization that God doesn't intend for me to successfully use spray foam. Good luck with whichever way you go. The best advice I can offer if using spray foam is wear gloves and a hat.
It'll wear off....eventually. Come to think of it, I have more than one old t-shirt with patches of it still attached. I've tried peeling it off my fingers, and my finger wants to go with it. I left it there.
I have a love hate relationship with them. Love I can adjust the angles, hate the draw cord and dust that collects on them.
Dear daughter has a 1/4" of very short hair sticking up above her longer hair. Yep, she was inspecting WWW foaming gaps in the house interior
Oh man, don't get her started on that point. Our house is a dust magnet, and all those little blind blades collect a LOT of dust.
I've heard that the foam board with great stuff sealing the edges, and then the space filled with fiberglass is pretty effective. I would seriously consider doing exactly what you are thinking. Sealing is more important than r-value. Get a good seal first. Greg
"Wife hates blinds of any ilk. I think I saw her head swivel around once when I mentioned them. It was scary." ... ... oh yeah... deer in the headlights scary... ... wimin...
I was just going to recommend a table saw, I cut up a bunch on mine and it never even blinked, easier than 1" pine.
wfournier Was it the 2" blue rigid foam, or regular expanded styrofoam? This stuff melts back together directly behind the blade...
It was polyiso so little different, good to know I'll watch out for the XPS then. Of course now this has me wondering... I have an old Unisaw running on a variable frequency drive that lets me adjust the speed. I wonder if I turn it down it would work, I might just have to try it and see. Or make a really big mess.
