Walk me through this 028WB fuel line rep.

Ok, per "you guy's" suggestions, I'm going to replace the fuel line, impulse line (don't know what that is) and "throw a carb kit in it" I think that was Mastermech's quote.

I got pics- I can see the fuel line into the tank
there's another line running to the case just under the jug, inpulse line?
then there's a smooth line on the left side that go's ? (down) and the other end runs through the "wall" of the a/f compartment into the other side and ends at nothing and that end is plugged with a tiny screw.
I've replaced fuel lines on my 044 before and it's just a matter of patience, but the line into the case looks like further disassembly is needed. (that was a question) and the last line (plugged)???????

I was holding a new Echo this AM at the dealers, with my trusty 044 by my side for weight & feel comparison trying to decide on a lighter saw. What I decided on was to give the 028 another shot at life (it used to run fine, but was in storage for about 5 years, with fuel in it). I'm all ears fella's!

 

On my 038 the base of the cylinder has a nipple where the impulse line connects to a nipple on the outside of carb mount. Follow that lower right black hose and verify, but I think you are correct.

The line with the screw is the tank vent.

For the fuel line, just grab the fuel filter from in the tank and yank her thru.

 

You guy's are fast!
I need to round up the parts first, the guy at the store said that there were 2 diff. carb's and he needed to know what one for the kit, and he did not have the impulse line. There can't be much to the kit, looks like maybe a diaphragm or something on one end and a gasket or two? That would be sweet to have this ol girl running for under $40! Even if I decide on the echo a saw that will run will be easier to sell.

 

Grabbed the carb kit yesterday, they didn't have the impulse line.
The fuel line is in and I'm on the carb, with the needle valve, what looks like a retainer for it, and a domed cap that looks like a soft alum. all left over. I have no clue on the needle valve & ret. and the "cap" looks like it might be involved with the new little screen that pushes into the body. This "screen" was not covered by anything when I took it apart.

 

That's the prob. MM, I don't know - see where it is.
Thanks for your help, you are a valuable asset here at FHC.

 

Just pull that fuel line from the fuel tank out and pull the new one in till the grommet seats. The other to the jug is the impulse line...can't remember you may have to remove or loosen the handle? And the line with the screw is the vent.

Someone has probably given you better direction by now. I see there is 7 replied so far.

 

I just replace those parts. The needle and arm unless I know there good. There easy to replace. Just watch the spring under them when you take the screw out. Its under the arm. Can be kind of tricky your first time but not that hard really. The small parts and screw and big fingers make it hard.

 

Going out there now, to replace them. I don't know how I missed seeing it, it must be the screw that I have loose
With any luck, my next post will be (if needed), how to adjust the carb. Me and small engines…… I've played with the screws on some of my other junk like splitters and generators, pumps, etc. and they never seem do do much' and deffinetly do not run any better when I give up. I sort of believe that they are only on there only for looks and to intimidate me.

edit; I forgot, I'm still waiting for my impulse line. I did clean it up and hold my finger on one end and blow into the other and there was no obvious leak, but it looks like it will be a miracle to get back on and it looks like a job I only want to do once, I'll wait for the new part.

 

The new needle valve & retainer is in, put it back together (with the old impulse line) and she fires!!!
I deffinetly need to play with those 3 mystery screws. The big one on top with the spring under it looks like it contacts the little tab on the butterfly/throttle linkage, but it does not come near it no matter the throttle position.?? I did not take it out when I disassembled it, only turned it 10 1/2 turns, then put it back. I did remove the little screen on the muffler for thehell of it (you hot rod guy's are to blame) if that matters to any adjustment tips you guy's can give me. The saw acts as if it is starving upon throttle. Compared to how it barely ran before, I think/hope that it is "repaired" and just need's to be "dialed in". I do not have a tach, is that necessary for getting it to run good, vs. "hot rod" expectation's?
ps. I can't believe I missed that screw for the needle valve. I guess I was excited, it was the first gasket that I put in during this process.

 

The three screws your talking about are the High and Low jet and the long one that contacts the butterfly sets the idle speed.

I am not the best to describe the task to set a carb. I can do it but will let MM or someone else who is better explain it to you.

I will tell you that you want to set your idle speed so that it will crank and run. Initial setting to start with for H and L is 3/4-1 turn out from fully seated.

Technically without the screen you may need to turn the H screw out a tad but probably not. It will flow better now. But as they warn you can now get crud in the muffler. Dirt daubers wood chips things that blow in while in truck. And that stuff can be sucked back into the saw when running or just blow in if the muffler is a straight through can when its off. That said I dont have screens in my saws

 

Ooh, I thought that it might be a "spark arrestor", either way, it looks like it does not help air flow.
No smart phone here, so I'm going back out to play with the 3/4 ish turn out from seated. Thanks!

 

It is a spark arestor and does not help air flow either.

Just make sure you hear the four stroke or burple when you hold it wide open out of any wood once it revs up.

 

Yeah I'm gonna need some more help with them screw's!
I get it close to what seems right, but it's just not. This is a saw with no chain brake and when I adjust it down so the chain stops, it's not happy. The high screw seems to be fine at about 3/4 turn, while the L screw wants to be either closed or 1/4 turn out, deffinetly not anywhere near 3/4 turn. Does this sound right?
Do these 2 screws just meter fuel, or they have anything to do with mixture?

 

The L screw controls fuel flow at idle through the idle circuit or passages. Farther out equals more fuel. Richer. Too much it biggest out. Too far in you will lean out and increase rpm's but also to a point it won't run. Also lean =not good.

Its a delicate balance between idle speed screw and L screw.

In your case I would get the chain speed to almost stop but where it will idle fine. Then mess with the L screw. Or get it where its too fast with L screw then back down idle.

MM can describe the process much better.

 

Lucky for you I and him I have this saves. Here you go. If this doesnt work you either have an air leak or a problem with the carb still.

Mastermech Carb tuning .

Start with the LA screw, setting the idle low enough to not spin the chain but well above normal. Adjust the L screw for best rpm, if the chain begins to spin, back the LA off until it stops, then continue adjusting the L. Once you have the idle RPMs peaked, back the L screw off (richer) about 1/8 to a 1/4 turn, the idle speed should slow slightly. Set the LA to normal idle speed.

Now you're ready to set the H circuit. Hold it at WOT for a couple seconds and note how it sounds. If you can, with it at WOT, richen the H screw until the saw runs like chit and then crank it in until the RPM peaks. Quickly back the H screw out again until the exhaust note loses that crisp, clean tone and begins to sound fuzzy.

At this point you should have a saw that runs pretty decent

 

Yeah MM, Im in the "ballpark" but can't find my seat.
Today I ran a tank of fuel through it, with my little screwdriver in in the pocket of my bib's. I had it starting & running very nicely, until it was fully warmed up. Then upon throttle, it would baaaawww, twisted out the H screw seemed to make it better but…. I don't remember. I had it adjusted so many different ways with an equal amount of problems. The good news is that I put a good sharp on the saw and did a bunch of limbing and I really like this little saw. It's a nice jump down from my 044 and is just what I was looking for, oh, and I allready owned it is the best part.
Is this something you can explain here? I am patient and really want to learn how to tune it. Rebuilding the carb and doing those fuel lines was a "piece of cake" and is helping to cure me of my small engine phobia.