SisIL getting a used NC13

They make high temp primer?

 

Dunno.
I'll find out.

 

Seems like when I painted mine, with Stove bright it said it didn't need primer, could be wrong though don't remember for sure

 

papadave, I do not know where Englander, got that square footage rating. I would say 800 to 1000 is more realistic.. in your climate. I'm guessing to be similar to mine. My experience, and remember I wasn't on FHC yet so most wood was cut winter split/stacked by spring and used in winter, This Lil guy, solely in regards to firebox size. Puts off most heat with 2 to 3 inches of hot coal in bottom! Even with stove damper above door and key damper 2 foot up top exhaust pipe it was a match re-lite after 4 hours, my draft was measured at 4 times normal.

If she's retired and doesn't take long trips though it will cut her other heating system bill down significantly.. I'm just trying to be helpful, not be negative towards stove or what your doing to assist her..

Maybe some fire starters would be a good Christmas gift..

 

Not too many trips, but she retired then took another job up here. She's gone all day.
I know that I'll have to coax her into having fires when she's not around.
She's kinda' a skeerdie cat about certain things.

 

Ok, so Thurmalox and Rustoleum (maybe more) sell high temp primer.
Stove Bright says their paint is both.

 

Couple things on your refurbishing.................

1. I would put new gaskets on the door and around the glass. It's been sitting outside, and according to you, abused slightly.
2. You may want to have the door sand or bead blasted to get the rust off. The door is cast, and has a texture to it that'll be difficult to get all the rust off otherwise.
3. Make sure the air passages are clear in the stove..............was outside, and critters like small spaces. Compressed air!!
4. If your ash pan plug is off-center to the left on the floor of the stove as you're looking into the stove, all the stove air comes in from the OAK manifold on the rear of the stove. It's not an air-tight manifold if you look at it. If your ash pan plug is in the center of the floor, like the 30NC, dog house air is taken into the stove from holes near the bottom two front corners of the stove and is not controlled.
5. With that baffle modification, I'd be looking for warpage and for cracked welds from possible over-firing.
6. Don't run the stove without a new baffle board or with fire bricks missing.
7. Remember, the manufacturer calls for the hearth to have a value of R2. That's pretty high when compared to other stoves...........IMHO, it's due to the short legs and pedestals.
8. Just my .02 cents/sense worth!!

 

Kimberly has a thread going about the one she's getting, and I've put up lots of info for her about the stove, so I know what you mean. The R-value is higher than the 30, which has 1.5.
However, I hadn't considered the possibility of overfiring. There's no whitening of the paint, but I will check for that. Gooder catch.
Good call on compressed air too....thanks for that one.
This one has the "dog house" air, so I'm thinking the air holes are like the 30, but I'll check that too, to make sure.
Do you think a a wire wheel on a drill will do the door? I did that on my Ashley and it came out great, but didn't have nearly this much rust.
I have extra brick I think she can use, and the baffle WILL be replaced.

 

Use some Naval Jelly on the heavy rust, it should clean it well.

Greg

 

Something I forgot to mention.
My wife and SisIL's brothers came up for a day and a half, and they helped move the stove. The other news is that they also brought up a Sears LT 1000 lawn tractor and gave it to her.
So, now, I don't need to take mine over there anymore, and I can use hers to get out in the woods to make firewood gathering more gooder.
We're both happy. I'm going to suggest she sell the Simplicity. It's worn out it's welcome as a yard ornament.
She told me today that she cleaned the glass on the stove. I suggested that we pull the stove apart, replace the gaskets, and check it for weld breaks, etc.
The Englanders have a door gasket that's really dense, so I told her it should be replaced with another from ESW.
mike holton , I noticed there are 2 baffle boards for sale on the website for this stove (depending on model).....are they interchangeable?

 

Well that'll work out much gooder getting Wood out of the woods then you can put it in the big trailer.
Will be easier than stuffing it into the back of the Jeep

 

Bingo, HDR.
Now, we need to find a saw for her that she can start by herself.

 

I bet she could start this actually no starting required
STIHL Lithium-Ion battery-powered chainsaw.



I think campinspecter has one

 

And just love it!

 

no, they are slightly different, you would want the "MH" version if the draft rod is BELOW the door, if its ABOVE the door use the other one. both have same price

 

Thanks Mike, I really appreciate that info. The one she has is below the door.
The plate on the stove doesn't have a little indent to designate which model it is, so I wasn't quite sure.
The previous owners didn't send the manual.......it probably got burned or something.

 

link for the manual on our website; http://www.heatredefined.com/assets/images/manuals/3343/13-nc_merged.pdf

with the draft below the door its an MH version of the stove.