Ok gents - After 8 years the Leyden Auger is making some serious groaning noise. Reading through some "old" posts from the other site (h****h.com/talk/threads/lopi-leyden-auger-removal.65095/) it appears that the problem is the lower auger brass bushing (binding, corroded, worn out etc.). I loosened the Auger Motor locking collar so it was not attached to the auger and the motor spins fine and quiet. The groan is coming from where the lower auger goes through that bushing to attach to the motor. In that old thread Wood Heat Stoves says to just replace the Lower Auger Bearing Plate. The bearing (called it an "oilett"?) is part of the plate. Also in that thread is says Travis Ind. tech said to just clean the auger end and that bushing with some fine steel wool. I am going to the dealer to order that plate with the bushing and will replace it. Will also clean one on there now. A few questions for anyone that has done this on a Leyden or Avalon or similar: 1. Does the motor just slide out of the motor stop bracket? Looks like it just sits in there and there are rubber bumpers (black circle below arrow) on each side. I can't remove that bracket ahead of time as it is bolted from the top of the auger bearing plate. When I loosed the auger locking collar (Allen bolt) the motor did slide up and down a bit. 2. Is that a gasket underneath the bearing plate or maybe high temp silicone (the red stuff)? 3. Any other advice? Also - Is Wood Heat Stoves on this forum or still at the other? Thanks if you guys can help! ~Rich
Once you loosen the clamp screw the motor will wiggle out. Sometimes it takes a bit of effort or tapping with a soft hammer. Usually a reusable gasket IIRC Most often its not just the lower bushing causing the groan, Sometimes the upper pilot will get rusty..... When you remove the plate take the extra time to pull the auger shaft and clean the top pilot and the pilot inside the stove. Many times the bushing is actually fine, But even though they are oilite, They do tend to dry out. I usually add a few drops of oil at assembly. Not to much though.
Got it all apart, Hardest was the lower bushing plate. The brass bushing was pretty corroded and bound up. I cleaned it up and will save as a spare, ordered new one from dealer. At least now I know how this comes apart if I have to do it again. Still going to clean up the auger motor it was pretty gunked up. Oh, under the plate it is red RTV. Should I put a drop of 3-in-1 in that top brass pilot? Luckily it's only October and using cheap oil for now if needed.
Oillite is very porous, it will absorbe the oil, put a drop or 2 on and wait, repeate. you'll be surprised that it'll keep sucking it up. The material is self lubricating. And you might take the old bushing to the local hardware store, they may have them in stock
Pretty corroded inside the brass bushing, I could barely move the auger by hand. Wet stuff PB Blaster I used to free it up to get auger out.
Anyone know if it's ok to put a few drops of 3-in-one oil on each end of the auger before I put it back together with a new bottom bushing plate?
It certainly won't hurt. I would and did when I put mine together last season. I put a drop in the bushing and spread it around. A drop on both ends of the shaft and spread it around. Then did the reassembly. I pulled it again this season to check for wear. Still looks good/new. I added a drop here and there on reassembly. I'll skip next season. But will pull it again the season after.
Great thanks man! I'm putting it back together Saturday. One more - Should I scrape off all the old red RTV from the stove where the plate attaches and put a new bead around this plate and the screw holes before putting it back? From Travis it had a bunch of the high-temp red RTV gasket under the plate and around the bolts coming from the stove. -rk
X2...as much of a pain in the azz as it might be to clean off it will be worth it over the long haul. Makes for a clean install
