I know a couple guys on here don't like using blowers on their stoves, but it helps move air to the back of this house somewhat. In an effort to improve that, I took Dex' lead and made a deck today out of a small roll of flashing I had leftover from some project or another. It's very floppy...like a wet noodle almost, but it's functional and seems to work very well. I have a small pine fire in the stove right now after cleaning the pipe. I also took off the cap and the last 2' section of Class A, then replaced it with an approximately 4' piece of 6" HVAC pipe. Before I put that on, I started the fire and had some fairly bad smoke rollout of the stove. Went up top and added the 4' pipe, then went back inside, opened the stove door and no smoke. So, now it looks like I'll be adding a couple feet of Class A. I've suspected this was my problem for over a couple years now, but really didn't wanna' do it. Couple pics of the mad scientist creations............ Yep, it's crooked.
Here's my prototype........... I think if I decide to make one, I'll cut a round hole slightly oversized, then split down the middle and do a little overlap. That will close up that gap behind the pipe. I have some measurements to take and need to figure out a material, but I'd call this proof of concept. Thanks DexterDay
So, that fire is out, and we're down to Pine "coals". After running with this deck on, the whole house seems to be at a more even temp. I hope it's not just butt dyno results. I'll leave it on for a while to make sure of functionality, and work on sourcing a gooder material. More pics when I get to the real deal.
How tall will your pipe/chimney be when done (from the hearth or stove top)? What are your plans for cleaning it? Let us know your gut feeling on whether the deck works for you after a few burns. Are you going to blow air through it, or leave it to natural convection? Greg
I think the total will be about 18', from the hearth to cap. I'll clean it the same as now.....remove the top section with cap, and run the brush down, although I've been thinking about getting a sooteater. I have the blower on right now, but I'll try both. I can already tell the stove room won't be so darn hot, and like I said, it also seems like the whole house is at a more even temp. I'm curious if this will help get a little more heat into the back bedroom too.
Looks good. I used a pretty thick piece of steel and then cut a 4" rigid dryer vent down the middle. Then used those 2 half as the sides. A couple bolts to help keep it level in the front and it's gooder to go!! I have 4 ft of inside vertical and 18' of class A outside. Drafts like a champ!! I could have stopped with the last piece of Class A (15' outside). But the extra piece was already here, so I used it. Works out great because I can remove the top 3' that has the cap and then the open Class A is about waist height to clean. Run the Soot-eater down it and clean the 3' section that was removed and Bam. Clean!!
It helps on windy days. With the 18' of class A, it can get to pulling more air through. I've been experimenting with it more as of last year. Closing half way and giving the stove a little more air.
From the hearth, to the top of the pipe outside is already 18' (I measured and recalculated), and I still have some slight smoke rollout in certain situations. So, if I add a foot or two, I may add a brace as well. With the pipe outside now at about 7', I've not had any issues even in very windy conditions. What's the best way to lag those brace feet to the roof? Do you just caulk/tar the heck out of the feet, or what?
I'd say that is a bit of an understatement. lol Both my shop stove and house stoves have fans (blowers) behind them that blow the hot air away from the stove and greatly assist in warming up the surrounding air and space. This is most noticeable in the shop where the walls and floor can be below freezing before I fire up the stove. If I don't turn the fan on it can take hours for the far walls and floors to heat up and in the meantime my feet stay cold while I'm trying to work in there, but if I turn on the fan in less then half an hour I can be working comfortably in sandals.
OK, pretty much what I thought. I just don't like the idea of putting holes in the roof. I know where the rafters are, so I can get the lags to bite into those.
4th season with the stove. No issues. I felt the same was, creating holes in the roof, but that high end chit is really durable.
Same here. I did small pilot holes, then filled those with the silcone, then ran the lags down into that, then silconed and covered the bolts up. This is season 4 and no problems at all.
Just a photo of a third deck on the NC30. Oh and with a ballsy blower added, this stove makes way more major mojo than no blower.
Oh man HB...nice. Got a closeup? With the deck, it seems as though the blower is able to just keep pushing heat from the stove into the house better. I got the AC30 on the NC30. Yours is same, correct?
Your nc30 needs a convection deck | Firewood Hoarders Club Here's my thread for it. The blower I ordered is not the AC30, it is a similar design but higher output and much cheaper. The drawback is that it did not come with the installation hardware so I need to custom mount it. I have it sitting on the hearth blowing up into the gap between the rear heat shield and the stove. I also bought an adjustable snap disc to prevent the thing from blowing when the stove is too cool for it. The deck/blower is hugely important. Many feet in front of the stove, like 6 feet easy, my eyes are dried out from the blast of air shooting over the stove top. In my state there are no legal wood furnaces yet so this big NC30 with my blower mods is as close as I can get.
That looks amazing. . . I love my convection deck. It makes a huge difference. But if yours was on eBay? I'd buy one in a heartbeat! Your shop set up looks amazing!! From my basement I burn hotloads as well. And unless it's the last load (I try to load it and set it for a long burn) of the night, I look for heat and a lot of it. It helps my Pellet furnace so it's not pulling cold air from the basement. Plus, the floors are warm in the bedrooms upstairs
