Using a key damper ?s

How far away from the stove is your damper?

How do you make your adjustments to the damper and the air on a reload? I.e. do you adjust only the damper at first and then the air or the other way around, or do you do a combination of damper and air adjustments?

As the load burns down and is mostly coals, do you leave the damper closed and just open the air back up or do you open the damper also?

 

In my experience, since the damper shuts off most of the exhaust path, that needs to open before opening the door.
You'll likely still get some exhaust out the door if you don't.
I put mine at least a few inches up the pipe to stay away from the stove collar.
I always opened (don't have one on the NC30) both before a reload, so that when I closed the door, the box had plenty of air for a relight from coals.
I haven't been keepin' up Dave. Is this a new setup, or just adding a damper?

 

Same setup. NC30 with a damper at about 18".
Maybe I didn't phrase my questions very well. I'm interested in how others adjust the damper and air after a reload or from a cold start while the stove is coming up to temp. Do you tend to make adjustments to just one at a time i.e. just the air until you've got it closed as much as you want and then start adjusting the damper or vice versa or do you make adjustments to both the air and the damper at the same time. Also how do you adjust the damper and air during coaling?

 

Ok, that makes more sense to my feeble mind..........last question first.
Coaling......I opened both.
I always adjusted air, then damper after getting to temp and going for a long burn. Seemed to work well for me.
Cold start or reload, pretty much the same, except the time it took to get to temp.

 

So, do you think it is helpful as part of the 30-NC install?

Greg

 

ESW says not to use one.
I didn't.

 

I think whether you use a damper depends on the set up more than the stove. I have a ton of draft so I like having one.

I have done the same as papadave, adjusted the air first while leaving the damper open. I use the surface temp of the pipe as a guide. I just bought and installed one of the high temp alarm digital probe thermometers. The temps I am seeing on the probe temp are very surprising, lots of heat going up the pipe, it's making me want to close the damper first.

 

With My Old Stove, once my pipe got hot, then I would start closing the damper until I got that set then, adjust the air is needed.
Once the fire burned down some I would just give it more air.
Reloading or opening the door, air and damper full open

 

No prob...I gotz lotza popcoan.
You should hurry though.....I ain't gettin' any younger.

 

Dampers are good to use for a emergency if you need to shut the air down quick close input air close damper will shut a fire down pretty quick. If you have a really strong draw on you flue as its like a 30 foot tall flue then a damper helps to control the draw of the flue. Dampers where used many moons ago as old stoves were leaky and was a way to better control leaky stoves.
A person needs to just try one out and see if it helps as everyones flue is a little different. But if you follow the manufactures install specs and use a 6 inch insulated flue or liner the stove should work fine without one. Only but in that is if your flue is really tall like 30 feet of more.

 

Just curious if there is any new advice/experiences here as I plan to leave the damper in my stovepipe once I get the Osburn in. Also I thought this may be good for all of the new members that have come on board.

Side note: I've been going through some of the old threads.....this site is a wealth of information! Great work everyone!

 

Good choice...its there if ya need it. If you clean the chimney using a Sooteater, it will go right past the damper too

 

What exactly is this sooteater? I've always swept my chimney with a brush...

 

Gardus SootEater Rotary Chimney Cleaning System-RCH205-B - The Home Depot