Ideal Steel Season #2 Tips, Tricks, and Improvements.

Ain't that common during the warmer months? I'm asking myself.

 

I would assume. And I understand there is going to be a learning curve. My last stove was an breather. I didn't fight this problem too often

 

I see. Now, don't take my word for it. I'm just a newbie.... I've read on it a little. But, you'll have to get an answer from the pros around here. Hey Backwoods Savage This is all you Dennis!

 

Yep. Issues. Try hard to only reload on coals after the smoke is all gone. It does seem to improve as the cold weather sets in and draft increases. This stove does not breathe easy. Crack the door open for a minute or so before opening it fully. You did yourself a huge favor by adding that 4ft. What is the total height now?

 

I usually build small kindling fires and when I go to put the larger splits on I tend notice quite a bit of spillage. Total height ..........well I'm gonna have to measure that

 

Still not the greatest. 14ft total with a 90 and a tee.....I might be looking at getting 4ft to go that much higher

 

I'm gonna have to fab a roof brace for that if I do though

 

You better plan on adding 4ft more. If you can, change your 90 to 2 45's. Do the same thing I did. Seal absolutely all joints in the stove pipe. Those gaps are basically like you trying to suck up water with a straw with a hole in it. Optimize everything you can.

 

Also,
You should try opening a window once and see if that helps. If it does help your house is tight and needs an oak.

 

Oh what do we have here?

Gonna pick up a telescoping piece of stove pipe. It's about 5 feet to the ceiling support box. Then another 8 feet of class a to the top. Going to add another 2 foot piece to the top of the chimney to get 15 feet total.

 

How did you seal the gaps in the telescoping single wall? High temp caulk? I'll not use furnace cement again

 

First off, I would upgrade to double wall stove pipe. I used furnace cement.

 

Maybe next year. But I just got my heat fab single wall for this season and my experience with furnace cement was less than stellar. Dried up, cracked and fell out of most every joint I used it in last year

 

It's the single wall heavy gauge welded stuff Woodstock sells

 

This year I'm trying this

 

chance04, with the elbow and a T, you've effectively got a flue that's at least a couple feet shorter. I think you figured that out.
Warm weather plays havoc with draft, as will a less than ideal flue. JA600L has a good suggestion with the 2 45s too.
I've used both hi-temp caulk and furnace cement....both cracked and fell apart, but better than nothing.
I wonder if someone makes a hi-temp filler rod that could be used? You could try getting some very small hi-temp gasket to fill the pipe gaps.
Just thought of something,...how much of a horizontal run is after the elbow? Does it have a rise? I hope I didn't miss that you've already addressed that.

 

I would guess 24-28" horizontal run with at least an inch rise. And I'm fixing to caulk the rest of my gaps this evening in anticipation for the weather coming in this weekend.

 

Does anyone have experience with milpac black?

 

What's working for me because I have same problem on small quick fires and got great draft... the IS has the door latch thats cracked a bit but latched and I do this for a few minutes before reloading on starting a fire.... I assume your smoke bar is down mine was latched up first time got a lot of smoke then...

 

I'm gonna try the latch trick this weekend. Thanks for your input