But which chainsaw....

Another option is to keep an eye on the used market, both locally, and the Classifieds here, as well.

A solid Poulan 3700, 4000 would do well, but so would an older Echo 670/6700, or any of the older mag cased Stihls or Husqvarnas (036, 038, 044, 266, 268, 272). Sachs Dolmar makes really solid saws, as well.

The possibilities are endless, or so they seem. If you have questions on anything you happen to find, there are lots of good folks here who would be more than happy to help you out.

 

It's no 460...but it ain't a 290 either.

 

If you are thinking used. I put a poulan 3800 61cc and a echo 6700 67cc on the for sale board on CRS yesterday.

If your looking for pretty saws, dont bother even looking. My stuff shows use.

 

CRS?

 

I just give my members first crack at everything. After a few days I start listing them here and other sites.

CRS = Chainsaw Repair Site Chainsaw Repair - Index

 

Yep, you are exactly right. One thing I have noticed is what I would call 'size creep' regarding chain saws, it goes like this: if you are going to buy an 'X', might as well spend a few more dollars for the much better 'Y'. Of course once spending 'Y' money, might as well go for the 'Y ++'. And so forth until what started out as a, say, $500 purchase is now 1,000, breathes fire and will cut down three trees at once.

Again, I am looking for a heavier saw to go through 5- 6 cord of log length wood a year. No felling, no woods work at all. Just bucking, some noodling (so I can get the pieces in the splitter) and something faster than a Stihl 211, which should not really be a big requirement as it is a 35 cc saw.

The one thing I do really LOVE about the Stihl is.... for lack of a better word, manners. Super- easy to start, super predictable to start (choke- pull till it burps, 1/2 choke and pull and it runs) and it idles fantastically well. There is nothing more annoying than a machine that is cranky or snotty or finicky to start, run and use IMO.

That said, it does look like a 590 ECHO is the best value for me, and I have an ECHO string trimmer that also has pretty good manners. So that is probably the way I will go based on my needs and the price of the saw. I just cannot justify and extra $200, $400 or more to get a 'better' saw that in reality will almost certainly be too big for my needs anyway.

Used is certainly a valid way to go but I would either prefer to buy that way in person or purchase from a respected and reliable member of a forum like this as opposed to buying sight- unseen from 2,000 miles away via Ebay.

Thanks for all the input- you guys are great!

Brian

 

Check your local craigslist. You just never know when you will stumble on a great deal.

 

You should be very happy with the ECHO 590!!!

 

Brian,

LOL! The "size creep" you speak of is also known as CAD (chainsaw [acquisition or addiction] disorder). Unchecked it will cause justifications for having every 10cc increment of saw class covered with multiple "back ups" to each primary saw per class.

I have a very mild form of CAD, as the most "runners" I have owned at one time is twenty four. I am currently in remission, and only have twelve "runners" currently.

I have another disorder, BAD (bar acquisition disorder). In the last year and a bit, I have purchased 200-250 guide bars. Everything from the old and obsolete to the current common.

The box is full of NOS(new old stock) bar tips. The saw was a runner that needed a clutch assembly, top cover, and a few fasteners. I paid $100 for the saw+ doughnuts.

 

I have deals on the 6400 right now and that puts both the 6100 and 6400 within striking distance of a 590 echo.

bucking out of a pile i would opt for a 6400 over the 6100. Just my $0.02

 

Well, I guess that I'll be the one to say it... for bucking and noodling, I prefer the largest saw I can carry, usually 90cc will do the job most efficiently, since they are much harder to bog down, and the weight pushes the saw through the wood faster, as well. Case in point, I bucked up a 22" cedar recently. I started out with my ported 562xp, which worked fine, but I did the other 2/3 of the tree with my ported 2188, which was easily twice as fast. I am less tired bucking with a 90cc than with a 60cc. If you're packing the saw through the woods, or up and down steep hills, that's where a 60-70cc shines, since it still has decent power, but is a little lighter.

I have Huskys, Jonsereds, Stihls, and Dolmars, and they all work in exactly the way you just described. If everything is tuned correctly, they should all start easily, and run/idle well. It is easier to flood a non-Stihl saw, since most have a separate on/off switch that isn't integrated into the choke, and it is possible to try and start the saw with the switch in the off position, but even the newer Huskys have gone to the master control style choke/on/off type switch, so that should be a non-issue.

 

Yeah, I mean, you might as well give in; and take the "all of the above" approach. We've all seen it before... "I only need 1 more saw" he says....

 

If you are noodling any at all, get a saw capable of doing it without burning itself up. Noodling is hard on a saw. Depending on how much you do it, it could be compared to milling with it. Nobody that mills with a saw is going to tell you to get a 60 or 70 cc saw to mill with.

I have several 372 XP versions. They buck like a champ. And, in all but big dense hardwoods, will buck right along side of my 385XP, until you get up to 22 inches or so. However, they are a LONG way from the 385 when it comes to noodling. A LONG, LONG, LONG ways. They simply do not cut as fast, require a light hand, and work a lot harder. I turn the blocks up on the bark and turn that 385 loose and lay on it. It doesn't bog nor does it slow down. It goes right through them. This is where it differs from milling by cutting cross grain versus with the grain but, the work load is still extreme and will get a small saw really, really, really hot.

Last firewood trip we took, we cut about 2.5 cords and EVERY single piece required noodling 4 ways to even lift in the trucks and trailer. First thing my dad did was cut off his 391 after seeing the 372 bucking. He fell in love after noodling with the 385. In his words, "That saw is a hoss cat boy.".

I'm not trying to talk you into something you don't need. I'm trying to talk you into a better choice. IMHO, way to much is made of saw weight unless you cut limbs exclusively. While a big saw won't necessarily out cut a 60-70 cc version in typical 16-18" wood, it will walk away from it in noodling chores and cutting big wood. Besides, If you are bucking trunk wood, you should be dogging the saw out and letting it pull into the wood, versus trying to hold it back and such. So, the saw weight won't be a big issue.

A once in a lifetime purchase is what you'll get if you buy a saw that doesn't burn up after 5 years of noodling that portion of 5 cords a year. Only you know if this description fits your needs. It all depends on how much you noodle. If you do it alot or, think you will one day, don't error on the small side. You'll spend three times the money in the long run. God Bless

 

I have a Husky 555 ported by Brad and it is my go to saw! I really like it and if I had to go back to a one saw plan it would be the one I hang on to over my 357XP, Husky 272, Husky 455, and even my ported 460Mag. It is easy enough to pack around in the woods all day and use even for limbing if needed but still has enough grunt to bury a 20" bar in oak without hesitating or bogging down.

 

So I looked all around, considered used saws, absolutely considered larger saws as recommended (got to a Chevy 502 / 502 but somehow it just did not seem beefy enough) and in the end, went with a new, stock Echo 590 w/ 20" bar- 100% stock. My thinking here is that it is a 'real' brand that can be serviced so if (when?) it needs a tuning tweak or something similar, at least I can bring the saw to a dealer and have them 'spiff it up' as well as possibly learn me somethin'.

I do appreciate all the input, and I did consider it all (for too long probably- I have $400 in the saw and $4,000 worth of time shopping / wondering / worrying about which one to buy!) but in the end, I think it will be hard to go too far wrong with the Echo. Besides, unless I throw it off a cliff or seize it or something similar, I should be able to get most of my money back and then go buy that 8,226 cc Chevy powered saw that I really needed in the first place

Thanks again.
Brian

 

IMO you did great and the right thing. 590 is best bang for the buck right now IMO new.