In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

Oversize flue advice

Discussion in 'Modern EPA Stoves and Fireplaces' started by DNH, Sep 19, 2015.

  1. DNH

    DNH

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    Good day to all from a long time lurker.
    Readers digest condensed version "Can you vent a 6" stove into a 10" chimney with good results"?


    Now for the stats/toys/details
    Sthil 170 14" and 290 16"I dont have CAD ...... yet
    Hand file and Harbor Freight chain saw sharpener
    Maul and wedge and log splitter
    About 5-6 cord CSS cut in winter 2013/2014 mostly red and white oak
    Progress Hybrid
    2500-3200 sq/ft split level (we dont heat/cool the entire house) with partial walk out basement USDA zone 6

    I recently purchased a Progress Hybrid I could not pass the warranty and my wife liked the look of it over the Blaze King/Ideal steel (happy wife happy life). I know the house is larger than what the stove is rated for and may need second stove/supplement heat. I have torn out a fire place that was connected into the CHA (heat pump) ducts via an insulated shroud around the fire place. I had a local sweep check it out when we purchased the place (last year) and he said it should heat the house I knew it would not but gave him the benefit of the doubt. Currently building a brick and tile hearth I have torn out a 10" metalsbestos Class A chimney that was not installed correctly no braces, no ceiling pass through about 24' chimney walk out basement install. Cost wise it will be about the same to rebuild 10" correctly with bracing and line it with a 6" SS liner as it would be to install all new Class A 6" chimney. I always like to save money but dont want to be pinny wise and pound foolish. Has anyone vented a 6" stove into a 10" chimney w/o a liner with good success?

    I have already spoken with Woodstock and Selkirk (chimney) they both say 6" is whats recommended the chimney is safe and can withstand the heat from the stove but I may have draft problems and creosote if I dont use a 6" liner or vent 6" class A inside 10" class A (there is room).

    What would you do; use the 10", line the 10", or install new 6"

    David
     
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  2. mattjm1017

    mattjm1017

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    I think your best bet is going to be to do exactly what wood stock says. I would not vent that stove directly into an unlined chimney I think you would be causing safety problems as well as losing out on the efficiency of the stove. Im not an expert on these things by any means but Im sure some of our resident experts will chime in with some more gooder advice than I can provide. Oh and welcome to the forum youre in the right place with lots of good folks.
     
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  3. papadave

    papadave

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    Hey DNH, welcome aboard.
    If you aren't too concerned about the money, do it right when you're doing it.
    Can we get a couple pics of what you're doing?
    Putting this in the walk-out probably isn't going to heat the rest of the house very well, depending on layout.
    When we moved in here, the 6" stove was vented into an 8" system that was too short. It worked.....sort of.
    Works much better now that I've installed an all new 6" system, and added appropriate height.
    Looking forward to some more info, and maybe some pics?
    :popcorn:
     
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  4. Backwoods Savage

    Backwoods Savage Moderator

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    Welcome to the forum DNH. Sounds like you are already familiar with the forum. Good for you.

    Personally, I would put in a new class A 6" and be done with it. I agree that you would have big draft problems if you don't cut it down to a 6". If you figure mathematically the difference in the 2 sizes, it is huge.

    I've heard of people heating that size home with a Progress but not from a basement. If this is going into a basement, the problem is getting the heat upstairs. It would seem that it would naturally go up but it won't go up a stairway worth a hoot. You can try blowing air down the stairway and that will help a lot but probably not enough. Still, that Progress is a heating beast. Also with the radiant heat, it will do a better job heating than many other stoves. Like in our home, we used to have to move air to the back end because it got so cool there but after installing the Fireview, we just don't do that any more.
     
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  5. DNH

    DNH

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    I will work on posting a picture, can some one point me to the how to section. The stove will be next to a 4' wide open stairway leading to the upstairs living room. I don't think getting heat upstairs will be a problem.

    10" pipe is ~3x size of 6" pipe, Woodstock said with a tall chimney you can vent into a 8" chimney but they have never had anyone try a 10"

    The consensus is a new 6" class A chimney would be the best option. I will purchase the required supplies in the next few days, it may be about 2 weeks before I can finish the install.

    Thanks to all who advised.

    David
     
  6. wildwest

    wildwest Moderator

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    Nice to meet you:)

    I learned a word after removing one from the house we moved into, word is "slammer". It's not safe and can prevent inspections/insurance coverage. Have you heard of the liners that can go into chimneys? After alot of time, money, and sweat equity our old slammer chimney is clean and lined with the proper 6" chimney liner for our new EPA stove.

    Pictures, I use a computer, under the post box my middle button says "upload a file". I click that and it lets me choose from pics loaded on my computer. Good luck:)
     
  7. Horkn

    Horkn

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    Yeah, you definitely need a 6" chimney, be it class a, or liner.

    I'll be dropping a liner down my chimney this fall. Then again I have an open fireplace with a 14" ( or is it 16") chimney.

    I don't know which would be less $, a liner or class a, but wouldn't a liner be much easier?
     
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  8. HDRock

    HDRock

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    Just click the "upload a file" button (below) and choose an image.
     
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  9. wildwest

    wildwest Moderator

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    I can't speak about pipes, but our liner was MUCH more difficult than I had imagined. I guess I took the term flexible too literally.
     
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  10. ChuckinMichigan

    ChuckinMichigan Banned

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    I agree with what mattjm1017 says, do what Woodstock tells you, otherwise, you'll have issues.
     
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  11. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

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    I'd drop a liner in the existing chimney if that it's too much headache. Or if you want to go the class A route, just an FYI, Menards usually has Supervent SS 6" class A 3' sections for $59 each during their heating sale...normally the first week or two of October
     
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  12. DNH

    DNH

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    image.jpg

    :headbang:

    This beast was attached to cha behind brick wall. Once I removed the chimney my choice was either tear out the wall or turn off drain and move hot water heater all while covered in fiberglass insulation.

    The hearth will look much better once I clean it up and finish laying brick.

    Liner would be most expensive option as 10" needs work to be usable.

    I will finish buying 6" class A with all the accessories.

    WW this was not a slammer set up the chimney was built on top of the fireplace and had to be removed in order to move fireplace.

    David image.jpg image.jpg
     
  13. ChuckinMichigan

    ChuckinMichigan Banned

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    You definitely have your work cut out for you.
     
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