Glued Drywall Removal - Need some advice on how.

Is a straight up through the roof install out of the question? Those draft much better, (especially a typical short single story home chimney) a lot less chance of smoke in the house on reloads...which, BTW that drives me nuts. I hate having the house smell like a rustic ole cabin and the wifes long hair seems to be a smoke magnet...which drives us both nuts(er)

 

Yeah I'm with you. My OCD says that will need to be centered on the wall.

 

There ya go, Brad38 avatar pic was exactly what I was picturing in my mind

 

Yeah, I went straight-up based on advice from this forum. (Luckily, didn't have to cut any ceiling joists!) Better draft. When you have horizontal runs and bends, that effectively "shortens" the length of your overall chimney, and more vertical length is needed to compensate. Like you Kimberly, mine is along an eave wall, and I think it turned out pretty well.

 

1) gluing drywall is very common, it eliminates nail, screws that pop and adds a lot of structural integrity to the wall.
2) on a wall space that narrow, a pipe off center will look like a giant boo boo, mistake.
Either work from the outside or in your case cut the stud an forget about it. there is no structural load that is going to affect a 32 inch span on a single story. also is it a gable end or a overhang either way it is safe, if it is a gable end there is almost no load anyway.

 

Kimberly, just so you know strive has rear heat shield and blower on it. I had 27 foot chimney and my draft was so much still had to double damper it to slow it down key damper in pipe and damper on stove. As for drywall in trailer if you want, I would recommend remove 4 foot wide on concrete board and good tile over it. but figure funds and go from there. in my install I got thru wall kit for around 300 had everything I needed and pipe I bought separately.

 

Why?

 

Short answer, because it says so in the manual.
If you don't install to manufacturer specs, it gives the Ins. Co. a weapon they need to attempt to deny a claim in the event you have a fire.
Someone else will need to supply a better answer.

 

Yes, you are probably correct, I doubt we would get that kind of snow load down here. It is a load bearing wall. I could cut out the wall in that section back to the studs on either side and then do a nice wall of tile or stone/brick veneer. I need to think about this. One problem is that I have run out of funds at the moment; no income for several months. So now I am thinking of alternatives. However, it was pointed out that I need a high R value on the floor so that is a higher priority than the wall. Safety is most important than anything.

 

The problem there is the roof trusses that this house has; they are not like a stick built house; no access to the attic space either.

 

I'd even question whether or not the studs are at 16" or 24" OC, some manufactured homes have different construction depending on the year and location.

 

View attachment 65613 We used a stone veneer. Easy to put on and inexpensive, but gives a good look.

 

In that case all stoves in all houses should be bolted to the floor but I am guessing that is not the case; raise your hand if your stove is bolted to the floor and you are not living in a manufactured home. I could understand if my house was on wheels. I live in a manufactured home, with standard studding and joists. Yes, there are some things that I don't like that must of been to code at the time, such as the OSB sheathing on the roof. Seriously, who is going to lean against a stove weighing 350 lbs and move it (cold of course LOL; then again, I had a relative that backed too close to a stove and branded the name on his arse according to the story told to me by Mum).

 

That looks nice, I would like to do something like that behind the stove.

 

You don't know me, I tear things out and redo them

 

not backwards, the shields aren't what determined the larger clearance , the double wall pipe does. the stove runs hotter when plumbed with double wall pipe so a larger clearance was required

 

Seems counterintuitive, but that makes sense. Thanks for clearing it up mike holton .
Kimberly, manufactured homes are very well built. Not sure securing to the floor applies for you.
From the manual.....................

Mobile Home Installation
Secure the heater to the floor using the two holes in the pedestal. If the unit is on a combustible
surface, you will need to drill matching holes in the floor protection that you choose (see Floor
Protection section). Do not disturb the structural integrity of the home, and be sure the unit is
permanently electrically grounded to the chassis of your home. Remember that outside combustion
air is mandatory, and not to install the unit in a sleeping room of the home.
Be sure to install in accordance with 24 CFR, Part 3280 (HUD).