Comparing the Ideal Steel to Progress Hybrid

I heated all last year with an old resolute (cast iron stove) without a blower and the end of last year and beginning of this year without a blower on the IR (also a cast stove). I put the blower on a couple weeks ago and LOVE it! I def recommend the blower and hope wood stocks adds the option of one the the new stove.

 

This thing has convective channels in the perforated panels on the sides that the leg covers and legs attach to, as well as the leg covers themselves. They even put slots in the top of the stove as well as the tops of the leg covers for that reason, and you can feel the air current flowing out of these slots. You could easily fit small fans in there, inside the leg covers or inside the perforated panels. Imagine computer fans manufactured to take the heat but running off a TEG.

 

I doubt that they can do this due to the epa. I think altering the air controls would mean the stove would have to be recertified.

 

Oh you're right, definitely. My bad.

 

OK, a call to Woodstock, a return call from Tom, and a whole new stove performance-wise. The secondary air damper plate wasn't sitting quite right. Now no whistling air at any setting, and great control. Better control than the PH.

So what's a beta tester to do now that he has control? Load that box up, right on top of a big, deep bed of coals! We are an hour into this burn, with a flat, steady 500 degrees stovetop and 475 degree probe temp, and a sloooow, lazy secondaries burn underway. Feeling much more like the PH heat output. Whew - I was beginning to worry about beta-testing through this year's woodpile and into the sugaring wood!

 

Great! That's a relief, huh?

Are you able to see the pre-cat air bimetallic coil, or is it too far back into your fireplace?

 

I can get to it, and with a flashlight can see it is almost 100% open. Closest I can hold my hands for any length of time in front of the glass is about 11" right now.

This stove is very quiet compared to the PH - the PH talks to you with continuous little ticks on the way up and on the way back down.

 

Brian, I'm not sure of the exact #, but those elbows effectively reduce your flue system by several feet.
I've heard 3' per elbow.
Perhaps someone else can clarify.
Just an FYI

 

I know when I went to the double wall pipe & 2 45°s instead of the 90°
I noticed a big improvement.

 

That is certainly tempting to do. But I bought the Supervent DSP to the wall kit and it came with the 90. If I thought I was actually having trouble with draft I'd consider swapping out two 45s for the 90 but so far draft doesn't seem to be a problem.

 

I was having draft problems on low burns.
I made several improvement at the same time.
Stove closer to the wall, 2 45°s, slight up angle on the thru wall clean-out "T"
sealed all the air leaks at the joints.

They all helped & I'm not sure which one helped the most. (I think fixing the Air leaks )
I learned the new stoves need a tight flue, any leaks effect the performance more than with the old models.
Add good dry wood to the improvements, & haven't had flue issues since.

 

Air leaks on the double wall stove pipe?

 

No slid together stove pipe joint is air tight.
That said, my biggest leak was in the sliding joint piece .
I did a temporary fixed it with some foil, last year, temporary is still working fine, LOL
Covered any joint that showed any sign of an air leak with foil.

Basement install so the wife hasn't complained yet

Will start a new thread so not to hi-jack

 

That would be a big selling point for me, knowing I have a strong draft and that the air controls could be custom just to accommodate folks with certain needs.
GLO!

 

I don't think that will happen. As concretegrazer pointed out,

 

Coming down from a 600 degree stovetop. It back the cat off a bit, but she'll move closer as it cools down.

 

True. A blower would be nice.