What's up today (bullchiting) thread.

Brakes all done. Truck stops better than new. Got 85k on factory pads...not bad.

Need to do the dreaded spark plug replacement on the Ford modular engine soon too. Not looking forward to that.

 

A hub is better than your wheel. I had that happen once, at freeway speed nonetheless. Scary, but luckily nobody got hurt, just a ground down rear drum and dust shield. And 5 new lug nuts as they were gone.


Someone thought it would be funny taking my lug nuts off a wheel. It wasn't, and it was amazing I got to the freeway.

Yes, I got even with him. I won't elaborate, but it cost him a lot more than a 25 dollar drum and 5 lug nuts.

 

What motor, and what year? F one fitty, right? Some are not so bad.

 

I saw a guy drive into a parking lot...lose the right front....wheel took out 3 windshields...and his truck t boned another car. He was visibly upset.

 

4.6 3V. 2009. They aren't supposed to be as bad at breaking them off...but they are still pretty stubborn.

 

Yeah, it's no fun. I'm shocked my wheel rolling down I-43 @ 65mph or so just went into the ditch type median and slowed down in the grass and the cable fence. It was good I was in the left lane and it was my driver side rear wheel. If I was in the right lane, it would've caused more of an accident.

 

Soak the threads first with a penetrating lube, days before.

 

Off to my satellite wood lot this morning to do some cleanup. I have a bunch of bark and debris that comes off the splitter to clean up, there's probably 2 years worth of crap lying around in small piles. Gotta make room so the grapple truck can get in for a delivery.

 

I wouldn't try straight DI water it will boil at lower temps than a proper mix ratio of ethylene/propylene glycol.
Straight DI will absorb minerals like a sponge.
I'd suspect impellar wear or radiator blockage as the main culprit as you only rise at a stop, and no coolant is missing

 

That theory about straight water boiling at lower temps than a water/AF mix goes against all the logic I've seen on the subject.
http://hellafunctional.com/?p=629

Many guys that run track days and road racers use straight water, with no ill effects. Glycol is nasty slippery stuff, and it's banned on many tracks in cooling systems. I make RO or RODI at home, so it's no cost to me.

I also figured running straight water will clean out the system too.

I do have water wetter by redline, but I want to flush it out and not waste it.

 

Not enough time in the day. Worked 8, mowed grass for 2. Didn't feel like doing anything else. Watched TV with wife and kids after we ate a Sergi's Pizza. thewoodlands made me want to eat at Sergi's. And my wife took the kids over to Canton for son's game. So they had to pick me up a Sergi's Pizza! Thanks man!

 

I cleaned and lubed my chain on my bike while the chain was still warm from the commute home. I took a quick picture of it, but I realized on the chain side pic that you can't see the chain I just cleaned due to the lean while on the kickstand. I already took it off the rest wheel stand, and the bikes in the garage, ready for tomorrow. Oh yeah, the state sent me a new plate with new numbers to replace the plate that is on it in the pic, the same plate that's been on the bike since I bought the TLS. Supposedly it's due to the state wanting the plates to be legible and reflective still. What a waste of tax payer's $ the old one is still highly reflective, and legible.

 

None of the math done there considers pressurized water systems
you move up to around 265F boiling point with a 50/50 mix in most 15psi systems
Pure water boils at 250F under 15psi pressure - this will vary with your altitude as it does not compensate for atmospheric changes (psia)
Yes Specific heat(ability for a liquid to absorb heat) degrades with glycol addition, but if the system has poor ability to reject heat(radiator blocked/reduced flow/calcium buildup transfer losses) it will be null point.

I understand race tracks that keep vehicles moving all the time prohibiting it, as these vehicles should be in top notch tune, I guarantee they run coolant in nascar engines at much higher pressures 25-28psi, the dynamics change quite a bit, but are impractical for everyday driving

 

I don't follow nascar at all, but yeah, there's nothing stock on those "stock cars"

I do know that the race bikes cooling systems can be as simple as pure water filled systems. Then the all out superbikes run aftermarket lightweight radiators and aftermarket hoses, maybe a different thermostat, but otherwise don't need, or run any non stock hardware, cooling system wise.

I did find a gallon of unknown ratio diluted by me some years ago glycol water mix. I'll run that through the bike a week or so and see how it works.

I really suspect the impeller may have loosened up, or just is failing. I think I recall it is held on centrally with a single hex head bolt. If that bolt loosens up, it doesn't spin the impeller much if at all.


I replaced the impeller about 7 years, and well over 20k miles ago.
I won't touch that water pump though until I have new parts to install. Gasket, and impeller as I commute on it as much as I can, and I don't have a spare street legal bike.

 

It's blacktop that needs to be re coated.

There's a lot of tree shadows from the sun setting, which throws it off a bit, but it is needing to be re coated.

 

Horkn As long as we agree not everything you read on the internet is true....
I may be a Stetson model named Monique and all but I know my thermodynamics