3 fried mice, 3 fried mice, see how they smoke, see how they smoke. I literally saw smoke coming from the cowling, then a smell...........couldn't stand to check for a couple days.
I've had tendonitis for a few months and cutting grass really aggravates it. Today I decided to put a suicide knob on the cub cadet so I could drive one handed. It works so well that I might just leave it on there permanent.
I somehow got my honey on the JD to see if she liked mowin' a little. Now she likes doin' most of the wide open lawns so she can go... wide open... My back feels a lot better now so, I think I'll leave her on there permanent too Norky...
Charging system diagnostics are easy. But it's best to start with a known good battery. It's helpful to know exactly what charging system your engine is equipped with as there are a few different types. But 80% of the machines have an AC alternator feeding 28VAC to a regulator/rectifier that puts out 13-14VDC. With a good battery, check the voltage across the battery terminals with the engine off. Sometimes I like to even take a reading with a small load applied, like the headlights if they work. Then start the engine and run it up to full speed. Take another reading with the same load applied and of the reading is significantly higher than the first, then the charging system is fine. An example would be taking the first reading and getting 11.5V with the engine off and lights on. Start the engine and at full speed you get 12.8V with the lights still on, then that's a good system.
I have been lookin at these Amorphous Solar Panel Battery Maintainer Kits Some of them are fully weatherproofed and can be mounted outside permanently http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...lar-panels-accessories+amorphous-solar-panels
It probably wouldn't help as much if I had an open flat layout, but I have hills with lots of obstacles and it definitely makes maneuvering faster. I'm expecting something to break on my cc this summer, I just don't know what yet.
So, had to jump it again today with the Jeep. Started after a couple minutes, so I shut it off and started right back up again, and mowed for about 40 minutes. Went back out about 1.5 hours later, and it started right backup again. Mowed a bunch more, and backed it into the shed. I'll go back out again this evening if it hasn't started raining, and see if it'll start again.
So, Casper and I went out about 8 pm and the dang thing cranked right over. No choke, so it didn't start, but that's ok. At least it wanted to.
Might have a piece of one the plates in the battery shorting a cell or two intermittently- with snowplowing on my trucks I get that about every other year. so now I just replace the dang things every 2 years- saves the headaches in the middle of the night.
Sounds like the battery is losing its charge as it sits for longer periods of time. It charges while you mow, and holds that charge for a short time. Can't remember if we have replaced the battery yet or not.
Tractor batteries are cheap, frustration is not. I always get mine from the same place. They test it right there. Sometimes I have to leave it overnight, but at least I know I'm starting off with a fresh battery.
Haven't had a chance to update here, but the tractor still won't start. Wife's dad had another stroke, so we've been spending a lot of time on the road and in the hospital. Took the battery to the local auto store and when they tested it, it was fine.....full charge. That was after sitting for a while. This thing's going on the trailer today or tomorrow and finding it's way to the shop, unless someone's got a gooder idea. I don't have the time or energy to mess with it much anymore and the yard is starting to look like a jungle. Besides, it's my wood hauler and snowplower too. They'll hopefully find the problem quick and fix it. Found this in the service manual..........how is this procedure done with a meter? Def. not an electrical person. Symptom-No crank and no starter solenoid click: Power is not getting to the trigger spade on the starter solenoid. Test for a good battery then check for power where the fused red wire with white trace connects to the B terminal. Check for continuity between B and S terminals in START position. If power is getting to the S terminal in the START position, the problem lies down-stream in the starter circuit; Check continuity from the orange wire on the S terminal to the orange wire with white trace on the trigger spade on the starter solenoid. If it is broken, trace through the brake and PTO switches.
