Does My Wood Look Seasoned?

Some wood gives up its moisture more reluctantly than others...most people can git by pretty well with 1-2 years on most hardwoods...

 

Of course, not all wood is pine Thanks!

Greg

 

A lot of variables come into play, where you live, how you stack it can make a difference, some who report long drying times (4 year oak better then 3) stack their wood in multiple rows and then of course it has to be top covered and those two things tend to cut down the air flow. I burn wood when its down to 18% or so but I have so much it ends up being 3 years before it usually gets burnt.

 

What does that mean, his post stated hardwoods.

 

wuz'nt tryn to be a smartazz.....just sayn

 

As stated, some wood is slow to dry and location makes a lot of difference, methods also.
I burn Red Oak 95% of the time- prime wood, slow drying. Typically needs 3 years. I'm now 4 years ahead (at least, need to count), will probably get 5 years ahead soon. I might just break my neck (again) and not be able to cut for awhile. Stuff happens, especially as we get older. I'd like to leave my wife with a nice stash of wood when I check out (100% wood heat). I'm sure her next man will appreciate it

 

Yes, wood can dry faster than three years. Having three+ seasons on hand is in part for covering the unplanned.

 

Yep, I am agreeing. The is aimed at me.

Greg

 

Oh I get it now.

 

The confusing thing is many claim it takes that long for almost all the woods to dry.

 

Many variables
weather, wood types, lengths & thickness, locations, stacking/storing methods.

I figure (S&S'd wood ) top covered, in 3 years most all wood will be good to go.
If you have the room, works great to have a few years supply .
Might be as dry as it's gonna get after 18 months or 2 years, or 30 months.

I notice the bark on the birch here gets brittle , starts to curl , lights & burns better after 3 years.
Much cleaner burning & faster heating up for new loads with the 3 year stuff,
Here, top covered it important.

Spruce, 18 months for the green cut stuff works .
Dead standing & the dead off the ground stuff is usually ready to go when cut.

I will burn no wood before it's time!
(unless I have to . LOL )
You burn what you got !

 

bogy, with all due respect top covering single rows here in Iowa serves no purpose what so ever, our rain rarely comes straight down so the stacks are going to get wet any way unless you put a very wide overhang on the wood. Dying wood is mostly common sense.

 

Yea single row might work here for a few years,
I see some birch firewood fences here that last a few years before they are mostly compost.
Spruce lasts longer but eventually it becomed top soil. MN has years of experience recycling organics.

Have done that experiment here with double/triple rows , no need to repeat & expect different results.
Birch likes to grow mold. Even under the snow .

Keeping dry wood dry, is common sense, in Alaska .

Shows wood types, methods, weather & location play a role

 

Location, location, location. What works in Phoenix may not work in Seattle.
This is my first year top covering. I got by fine without it, even though it was obvious the the sapwood was saturated after a hard rain. I'd stack it on a covered porch for a few weeks minimum before burning. The sapwood would dry out noticeably. As I get more and more years ahead, I'll eventually lose the sapwood to rot if I don't top cover. I expect better results. Probably not necessary in Phoenix.

 

Like I said here in Iowa the rain does not come straight down very often so top covering would be pointless, never had wood rot stacked outside, single rows and in some cases it's there for many years. But that's mainly Oak, Mulberry, Ash and a few other odd ones here and there.

 

I have seen pine lumber lay outside for years not rot but that was because sun and wind dried it out after it was wet.

 

^From standing dead oak. The sapwood is pretty soft before CSSing. Sucks up water like a sponge.^

It doesn't always rain straight down here either but people with umbrellas stay a lot dryer than people without.

 

Don''t have any Iowa weather or Iowa sun & wind here
If I did I'd grow tomatoes, & cucumbers outdoors.
& have a sweet corn patch too .

 

You guys are funny, did you read my posts, I said I would have to have a long overhang to keep the wood dry, the simple little top covering in the pictures most post would do nothing. I believe a umbrella sticks out from the person carrying it or do you have a smart answer for that?
Plus you can aim the umbrella into the wind, I guess I could make something to yaw into the wind like a wind turbine to keep the rain off the wood.
Like I said earlier, a lot of drying wood is common sense.

 

That's one reason I say what works for me in my area, I had one guy tell me I was full of crap when I said most of or snow fall came down side ways causing problems with just top covering so I have to cover the whole stack after seasoned if it will be used that winter. I have read posts that say NEVER cover the whole stack, not sure whats thats all about.
I try and cover everything in my posts but as noted above it some things still get missed.