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well pump/bladder tank question.

Discussion in 'The DIY Room' started by jetjr, Apr 7, 2015.

  1. jetjr

    jetjr

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    A while back I replaced my well pump. More recently I had to recharge my bladder tank. I noticed today my pump kicking on and off more than usual again. I noticed when my wife was running the boys bath water it seemed to work ok. My question is, is it possible that the small pipe to the pressure switch is clogged causing this to happen? The bladder tank seems ok. Still has good air pressure, sounds hollow at the top and no water coming out the valve stem. I'm no plumber so just looking for any advice. I can probably get by replacing the tank myself if need be.
     
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  2. TurboDiesel

    TurboDiesel

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    Bladder tanks can be a little hard to figure out.
    You need to set the air 1 pound above the pressure that the pump is set for.iirc
    You may need to adjust the differential switch so that you have a little more swing between the high and low pressures.
    If its a shallow well pump the foot valve can go bad and really screw with you.
    If this is the case , put in a submersible pump.
    How old is the tank? Should be able to replace it for $100-120
     
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  3. jetjr

    jetjr

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    Na it's a deep well pump. Not sure how old the tank is. We've been here around 3 years. Is that 1 pound above the low or high setting?
     
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  4. jetjr

    jetjr

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    Only reason I ask about the lbs is I thought it was supposed to be a lb or so less than the low pressure setting.
     
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  5. TurboDiesel

    TurboDiesel

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    High.
    The switch could be getting sticky also. There really isn't much to the whole system. A good gauge might help you see whats going on
     
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  6. Horkn

    Horkn

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    Jet, if it makes you feel any better, my pressure tank is sounding like it needs to be drained again. I think it's the switch.... Since I have no bladder to fail.
     
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  7. fox9988

    fox9988

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  8. jetjr

    jetjr

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    I replaced everything but the tank within the last 8 months. Hoping its just the short pipe going to the switch. I have a gauge it goes to the high setting than bounces right back to the low.
     
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  9. fox9988

    fox9988

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    Sounds just like a bladder issue. The pump kicking on and off is hard on everything, all that torquing back and forth breaks the wires. Good luck.
     
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  10. jetjr

    jetjr

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    Yea thats what I'm worried about. Might clean the tube this evening to see if it helps if not guess I'm replacing the tank on my day off.
     
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  11. fox9988

    fox9988

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    So have you double checked the bladder pressure (with no water pressure in the tank) and checked it for waterlogged (depress the schrader valve with water pressure on the tank, let all the air out, and no water should come out)? That's about the only thing that can go wrong with a bladder...
     
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  12. Bret Hart

    Bret Hart

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    Just a tip. If you have plenty of space go bigger with the replacement tank. The larger ones at TSC seem to be the same price of a much smaller one at a plumbing supply house or Lowes. You'll have extra water in reserve for things like toilet flushing if the power goes out and your well pump will start and run a lot less.

    This is the one I installed because I had unlimited space and it cut down on the pump starts by at least 1/3.

    http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/countylinereg;-pre-charged-pressure-tank-85-gal-capacity
     
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  13. chris

    chris

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    I had a problem similar - foot valve went south.
     
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  14. jetjr

    jetjr

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    Doh gotta check without water. Out of curiosity shouldn't my supply to the house be after my tank. I'm no plumber so I could be off in my thinking but this is how mine is 20150408_202718.jpg plumbed.
     
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  15. fox9988

    fox9988

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    I'm no plumber either. But it looks fine. Everything from the foot valve up is pressurized. The tank is just a pressure reservoir to keep the pump from cycling too much. That's why it needs air in it, water can't be compressed to store energy.
     
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  16. fox9988

    fox9988

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    Prior to operation, with the tank, empty of water, the pressure should be 2psi below the cut-on pressure. So, for example, with a 30-50 pressure switch (factory default setting), air pressure in the tank will equal 28psi. If the pressure switch is adjusted to 40-60, the cut-on pressure will be 38psi. Furthermore, always set the pressure switch to reflect a 20psi differential between cut-on and cut-off. If the pump cycles too quickly causing the pump to cut on and off, setting the pressure switch to a higher on/off setting should slow down the cycling. Remember to adjust the air pressure in the tank to reflect the new cut -on pressure. Warning! Most non-commercial tanks have a pressure rating of 100psi!
     
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  17. TurboDiesel

    TurboDiesel

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    this could help the pump live a few extra years
     
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  18. TurboDiesel

    TurboDiesel

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    me too
    fixed it with a submersible pump
     
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  19. TurboDiesel

    TurboDiesel

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    Nope. its fine. The bladder tank could be anywhere in the house. it just absorbs the pressure spikes when the pump kicks on and keeps pressure in the system longer to keep the pump from cycling
     
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  20. jetjr

    jetjr

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    Ok cool. I wasn't sure if the pressure tank had to be before the actual house supply.
     
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