The Chimney

If possible rather than a 90 deg use a couple 45 deg pieces to get to the side wall exit- then you do not have a horizontal pipe or an extremely short section .
Never, if at all possible, set up with a dead horizontal flue section always try to have some rise in it - just solves so many issues that can occur later on- and generally you can get a cleaning brush all the way down to the stove or from the stove up( depending on stove) with a pair of 45's ( means ya do not have to pull the flue apart to clean that area) same goes for pellet units

 

Hello; I had the roof stripped; had to fight for that one, I called the manufacture of the house and spoke with an engineer and he told me that my roof was only designed for one layer of shingles; I put the architecture shingles on because I got a deal on discontinued line for the same price as the three tabbed shingles. The roofers did not want to strip the roof; good thing they did because there was rotted sheathing; roof leaked for years. I still have not paid off the roof yet; but I am getting there.

 

ok, that's good! way to fight for your rights! if you decide to go thru roof flashing if done right won't leak. if you want no holes it is possible to do a 30 angle and bypass eve I have seen it done I never tried it others may chime in and tell you pro and cons of it. I know about roofs I've done too many house, garage and horse barn last year rental units previous years. get tractor fixed, get wood c,s,s and drying little 13 is still running non stop here. waiting to prove she will earn her keep in the Commonwealth. it's still 30 s here so be a while yet

 

Is there any particular brand I should consider? Are there any brands that I should avoid?

 

I helped my buddy do a through the roof install - similar concept vaulted ceiling with a low pitch roof
Use a plumbomb after the stove is set in position and determine where the roof joists are for the pass through box - It is a modest clusterF to determine exactly where to cut with the angles but with the stove set on the hearth pad plumb down to center of the appliance outlet, use a long drill bit to go vertical through the joist space on all 4 corners and finish up the install with some straps that can be removed for sweeping

 

wildwest, that looks to be a galvanized adjustable elbow. I know you said "something like this", but galvanized is bad juju when high heat is involved. Just trying to clarify.
They are available in black pipe versions.
Kimberly, also keep in mind that every elbow effectively reduces your total height (I don't remember exactly how much), so you'll need extra pipe to make up for that.
While you're thinking of aesthetics, don't forget clearances to combustibles.
Lots of good info here.
Do not delay, do not pass go, do it now......but get on the firewood. Unless the wood is already dry that you have your eyes on, it may not be dry enough to burn well this fall/winter.
Supervent can be had from different retailers, and the price will vary quite a bit. I got mine from http://www.menards.com/main/home.html
Seems to be the least expensive, and has to be made to Class A specs. Open the boxes and check the ends especially, for dents. Those may not allow the sections of pipe to seat together well.

 

as long as it's class a rated go with cheapest, and follow papa Dave advice check ends pieces get returned are always the bad ones and who likes to stop to run to store get one more piece

 

Yes, it will off gas toxic fumes.

 

So spending more money on the DuraPlus triple wall is not better than the Supervent double wall? That was one of the things confusing me; if I should go double wall or triple wall.

 

The Selkirk Supervent is fine if you're trying to save money. It's Class A. Might be slightly inferior material or something, but it has to pass muster to be Class A.
Mine's been installed for 5-6 years, and it's just fine. I expect it'll last many moons.
I bought some from Menards and didn't check. When I opened one of the boxes, the end of the pipe was bent slightly, and gave a little grief putting it together. It's been relegated to outside duty.

 

Gosh, I really don't know which way to go. The problem is that this is an older manufactured home; the roof pitch is not that great; have to measure to know exactly; this was before they had the "hinged" roof systems they could lay flat so they had to make sure to clear power lines in transportation. The ceiling is vaulted in the lounge and I have no way of knowing where the roof trusses are located. Not sure if a stud finder would locate the roof trusses. I have a hand textured ceiling so leery of poking holes etc to find out. Hindsight is always perfect vision; which we had considered all this when the house was being built at the factory.

The outside run, if I go that route, will face the issue with the soffit; not enough space to go through so it would mean cutting out with the chimney part way into the roof; that might be possible but I may have an issue with the trusses again. I could go with an offset; SuperVent states their offset is to only be used inside of the roof, so I would not be able to use SuperVent according to their specs. I measured the soffit plus gutter and it is ~11 to 12 inches.

 

Note the wood block to increase the clearance from the siding.

 

That might work. Seems like somebody on here had some steel extended braces made to do that. They were similar to those metal ones, but pushed the pipe out farther.

 

Look at this installation, the offsets were used to move around the windows. Did they angle the chimney out at the roof?

 

When I try to view the attachment it states:
Firewood Hoarder's Club Forums - Error
You do not have permission to view this page or perform this action.

 

In this installation; which does not appear high enough or enough support straps, was to have it further from the wall. I know that having an increased horizontal run is not good.

 

Another example from DexterDay