Actually, I've had it for years. Its 5 rib sheet iron. 36"x20'.9" from rib to rib. I just got the bend started and walked it down with my feet. I wondered how hard it would be to get down over the 16" stack bent like this, ~18" accross the top. No problem. There is plenty to cover all my wood hoard. I was going to build a giant woodport but this should work fine. I need to throw some weight on top to hold it down.
I'm a little behind this year. Usually have all the winters replacement wood CSS'ed by now. Now that my 1/4 million dollar bionic spine and guts are about healed up, I'm ready to get after it. Its been a long boring winter.
Looks great. Beats dealing with tarps. You might want to build squared off cribbed ends and give that sheet a bit of overhang so you won't be pouring all the runoff on the end of your stack.
Looks good, and you probably don't need much weight on top to keep that from going anywhere. I need to figure something out. Some of the runner mats I'm using are starting to rot out. I'm thinking maybe some old billboard flex material...
You're right but I just hate building cribbed ends (no offense cribbed ends ). I'm very slow at it and still not good. These stacks run from tree to tree. The pictured stack just hasn't been replenished from this years burning, the rounds on the ground are waiting split/stacked. My stacks between the 20" DBH red oaks are nice and straight when completed. During the 3-4 years of drying, I have to straighten them up a couple of times with my front end loaded. No big deal but I've wondered if it because the wood is shifting as it dries or the tree trunks are swaying as the wind blows. The stacks are up to 50' long x 4 1/2' tall.
Excellent Paul. One more thing is to take a pair of pliers and round those corners before they catch your coat sleeves.
Both cause it fox. The worst though is that the tree trunks take a beating. It really does not take a lot of practice to build good ends. I learned how to do it when I was about age 6 or 7. End not right, kick in the seat of the pants, end gets torn down and little boy told to do it right this time. It really does help a lot though to keep the ends in mind as you are splitting. Make rectangular and square pieces.
Says the guy with perfect stacks Oh, I can build them good enough. But I've been avoiding it when possible for decades. Laziness I guess
I use both methods. Depends on where I'm stacking and if I have any posts left. I prefer the t-posts about every 20 ft in long piles so when one portion tips it doesn't start taking out the whole pile. And with 16" wood at 5 ft high each 20 ft section is a cord. Easy to count! Great repurposing of the tin too. Ive been looking to come across some for this very reason. Tarps and lumber covers can be a real PIA in my windy stacking area!
Just out of curiosity have you tried using posts pounded into the ground or stuck into a hole made by a post-hole digger? I use pressure treated posts at either end of my current stack so I don't have to do cribbed ends, saves my trees and the stacks don't shift anywhere near as much.
No kidding ... if I could crib like that, I wouldn't need fence, posts or pallets to hold up my stacks. I gotta start splitting in rectangles to see if I can do that.
