importance of limiter caps?

I've posted and asked before and got some great info/replies but bear with me here...I finally decided to put a 460 dual port muffler cover on my new but now broke in 461. Anyways I pulled the limiter tabs and cracked one of them in the process. I trimmed the tabs off and wanted to re install to prevent any creep on the high/low screws. Well, the cracked one out of the two seems to not want to grab the adjustment screw to turn it when I put the tabs back in. No big deal I'm thinking cause I can adjust them both freely now, but do the screws tend to creep pretty easy when you're cutting? If not I'll leave em out, but if they do then pick up some new tabs to trim and re install. Maybe an unlimited 460 coil is in the plan here soon too

 

I have heard from some of our resident motor heads that they just pulls those caps and toss them in the garbage when they open up their mufflers.

 

I had a few over the last few years that I suspected might have been "creepin" ........... I just pulled the springs a little more open, then re-installed them. No more hunches !!

 

I just bought 2 new ones when I modded my 290 they were like 30-40 cents if I remember just trimmed the tabs off an reinstalled .

 

Though I have heard of the adjusters moving on certain saws, I think they generally stay in place. My MS400 has not moved since I moved the caps to my toolbox. If you are concerned about it, record where the jets are aligned currently and monitor them for a while. Or if you are the nervous type, buy new caps. You can find them used from a lot of sources or I suspect Stihl sells them new.

I don't remember there being springs on my jets to hold them in place, but I could be wrong. I have heard of people who install springs on the jets to cure the problem though. Similar to what you find on motorcycle carbs.

 

Both my saws and one previous, are missing the caps. No noticeable creep.

 

Thanks for the replies...just got done tuning her in the wood and she runs good and sounds a little meaner now. Like maryland said I removed that grommet over the adj. screws and took a mental note of where I have em then put the grommet back in place.. I'll check em periodically here or if the tune drastically changes all of sudden. If anything the saw sounds good without getting too loud so even if the power isn't bumped up much it is worth it I think. These 461's are pretty stout to begin with in my opinion.

 

Ya the tabs, when in place do align the screwdriver up nicely...I took a flashlight and lined up the grommet after replacing it and lined the holes to the heads of the adj. screws as best I could. Then gently dive in with orange tuning screwdriver to feel for em when ya gotta adjust.

 

This is related to a post I have open (Stihl carburetor help) but thought I'd ask here too since its a similar discussion. How do you remove these limiter caps?

 

I used a drywall screw. Thread it in the cap, when it bottoms out on the metal it will push the cap off.

 

I've removed the red plastic limiters from more than a few saws and have never experienced carb jet screws moving on their own. You have to remember that carbs were made without limiters for a lot longer than they've been made with them. Never heard of screw migration on the older fellas.

If you want to remove them you have options - like a drywall screw. Or, if you want to get fancy you can order the Stihl specific tool that's part number 5910 890 4500 from your dealer for $4.99 + tax.

 

This is good info, I thought I read/told that you put em back if at all possible. Thanks for clearing this up. Maybe in my head it made sense these caps would secure the settings better also...

 

I dont have them on any tabs on any of my saws and the tune does not change. You can hear if they change. Your idle won't be right or acceleration off if the L moves or it either will race or over 4stroke if the H moves.

As for pulling them I uses a small set of needle nose.

I can see where cutting the tabs and the plastic would help hold the screwdriver as it is bounceing around as Dex said. I like the husky style better for easy adjustment as it finds the screw better. Just the slot on them the screwdriver slips around.

 

I would of given you the ones I had if you want them but I think I threw them all away. I can look through some parts boxes if you want me to and send them to you (if i find them)if you like. I sorta dont think I have them.

 

Nah...i threw my out this morning and not too worried about it. Thanks anyways Clem.

 

It's on a Stihl rotor tiller that converts into a power broom. My post "Stihl carburetor help" has a picture of the adjustment screws and the caps.

 

I pull them with a drywall screw trim the tabs and replace them. The reason I replace them is I find it is easier to hit the tabs with a screwdriver than it is to hit the head on the needle valve.