Stihl RM or RS

So I bought two brand new loops of chain a while back with the intention of testing them side by side. One loop was RM and one loop was RS. After trying them side by side I have found I much prefer the RS chain over the RM. I was just curious what other people liked and why.

 

I think theirs chain cuts faster and stays sharp longer.imo

 

RSC - mine are older before the C was dropped.
file with 10-15deg uprake/sideplate and they get even better

 

Just so you know. RS was before RSC and then the C was dropped later to go back to RS.

 

Take that RS to cut some fence row shagbark and tell me you still prefer it . I like RS for working in the woods, but anytime I'm cutting fence rows, field edges or yard trees, I prefer RM.

 

I cut Shagbark with RS frequently. Curious what your reasoning is. I am just trying to learn as much as I can about the different chain styles.

 

thanks for the lesson

 

Right. However, I believe shagbark has more potential to catch dust than most trees. At least it seems that way when I cut them next to other trees in fence rows.

 

Also the RS that was 'before' was/is different chain than RS 'after'. RSC is the same as the new RS.

Zaat is juzt to keep us Amerikans confuzed by zee Germans. <click>

 

RS is full chisel, RM is semi chisel. Round filed, RM will stay sharp longer than RS, especially in dirty conditions. RS will cut faster than RM, but usually dull faster because of the sharp points on the cutters. Square filed RS will cut even faster but it will also really dull fast as the edge of the points are really thin. I use both, and swap them out depending on conditions. Dirty conditions or near the ground, RM. Clean wood, RS. Same with PM and PS low profile. I am waiting for PMS to come out for cutting during 'that time of the month'.

 

Yep, I just didnt want to mention it, then have to explain that too.

 

Of the 2 choices , I prefer RS over RM, (for my conditions)
but went to LPX & am pleased with it's performance for me, (cutting 90% green birch)
Some spruce, which seemed to dull the RS faster than the LPX.

RS is faster cutting , but dulls faster than RM.
Found RS & RM 3 to be good all around chains too.

I went to the Oregon LPX for felling, liming, bucking clean wood .
Trying the LPG this year, so far have noticed a little less kickback when liming, which is kinda nice.
LPX is less expensive , sharpens better & last longer for my conditions.
(I seemed to have to file more metal off the RS , than the LPX, to get it back to sharp, LPX lasts longer than RS, for me)

Have about 20 of various 20" chains. May not need to buy anymore. Last year I cut 10 cord with an LPX, & it's still over 50%.
Got 5 LPX & 5 LPG for $15 each. With just these, I should be able to cut over 100 cord (or 15+ years worth of wood).
Hope to be "snow birding" way before I use them up

 

Can you explain more detail on that?

 

Instead of filing level across the tooth, you give it a 10 degree or so "up" angle is what he's saying....so tilt the file a little when filing from the inside out. Some file guides have a bend on the tip to get you in the ballpark of how much this tilt would be. I'm pretty average at hand filing but getting better I think so can't comment on how effective this is. From what I know alot of the hand filing deal is keeping every tooth as consistent as possible whatever angle you use, say 30 degrees across, then if you can consistently put a 10 degree up on every tooth you're ahead of the game.

 

RS 30 degree angle straight across

 

RSF 28 and 25" Usually only cut standing trees.

 

it's easy to do with a Granberg style file jig. handiest $25 you'll ever spend - file all your chains at once and change in the field
Instead of keeping the file at a perfect T(90deg) to the bar and 30deg to the chain tooth.
The file is 10/15deg from the normal T(down on the right side of the file) and still 30deg on the chain tooth.

On a new chain it takes ~5-6 passes to bring a full glint to the cutter edge, and then clean out the gullet from the factory grind.
If you get into the straps a touch no big deal

 

Maybe some of us are not in tune with Stihl's codes. You could tack in some communicative ones, like "SC" or "RdCh". No need for translation then.

I've a few loops of Oregon 72LGX for each of my big bars (vice LoPro), and typically it cuts very well for up to two tankfuls in clean wood. At about that point you can sense it getting dull with the ol fingertip-test. Shortly it'll be spitting dust. Catch it around there with Granberg clamp-on file guide and a couple strokes/tooth will do it nicely & precisely. (It's in the bag.)

I like semi-chisel so much more for its edge longevity, I got a reel of WoodlandPro 30SC. On occasion, that's kept cutting where the LGX would have been making smoke-signals. IMO. The 30SC makes cutting easier in many ways: chain, bar, engine, me. I really appreciate it in the black locust we've been cutting on one site- must have a lot of silica in it. Way tougher than on a site a couple hundred yards north.

Both the Oregon and WP chains cost way less than any local Stihl dealer's price, most especially off a reel. Frawley's or Bailey's- pick one.