That is what I run on mine. I like the Stihl PS3 chain. I switched to the .050 chain because I bent a cutter tooth on the .043. Thanks, Eric. To advance the timing you remove the flywheel and file the flywheel key. Some saws have the key cast in the flywheel. You really should find TDC before moving the flywheel. Mark the flywheel the the case on the saw so you know where TDC is. Then you can use a degree wheel to tell how much you advanced the timing or you can use a timing light to see how much total timing you have. Here is a video that may be more helpful.
Thanks for the vid link 94BULLITT, My FIL got an MS 170 for Christmas, but I don't think he'd let me mess with it! Still, I'd like to see if it improve my husky 445. I suppose retuning the carb would be in order too.... Eric VW
I have a 445. Its a like of junk in my opinion. I need to do a MAJOR muffler modd on it and see if it wakes up out of its permanent coma it seems those saws are in
File the key and index the wheel. Do NOT use lock-tite, on a tapered shaft the nut is the only thing that holds anything the key is there to index it. As far as a muffler mod one of the best things it will do is let heat out, it also give it a little more power.
Thx for the encouraging advice, guys, I have absolutely zero tools for doing this... No timing light, no degree wheel... Probably best left to a professional. That being said, I've never had any issues with the 445, even when stepping up from the stock 18" bar to the 20"- but, then again, it's really the only saw I've run in the past 3 years of heating with wood. (I did own a Poulan 42 cc saw for a while doing basic clean ups- real junk!) Sooooo, unless I can get some bench time with someone to watch over my shoulder, I'm doubtful that I'll be messing with ignition timing. But then again, I do have 2 new (to me) saws to take up the brunt of my cutting needs.... Still would need to add to the tool kit in order to even think about it! Thanks again y'all, Eric VW
I'll second the "NO LOC-tite". And add many times the nut isn't needed if was torqued on tight correctly . Although the nut helps when you are snacking the SOB on the crank shaft end to try and get the flywheel off .. (But with the 170/180 series) you can hold the fly wheel in your fingers( by a fin) off the bench by a few inches, give it a smack on the crank bold(so as to cover the crank end) and it will pop off.