High End Axes

Double dang! A Wetterlings splitting maul showed up on my doorstep. God, I love sharp hand tools. FWIW, the fit and finish on my GB tools is definitely better, but, as above, I'm hoping that the FUNCTION of the Wetterlings will be superior.

 

Let us know how you like it once you split some wood.

 

Split some red oak today. Maul worked awesome! I was splitting 18" long 12-14" diameter red oak. Got most splits with just one swing.

 

Can't tell you how many times I have watched that video, so cool!!

 

Would the performance of a GB justify the cost? I have a $30 Truper maul that does the job, but it's not something my son will end up treasuring when it's time to pass things like that along to him. But before I have to think about that, would one notice a difference in performance with the Gransfors compared to a cheapo maul?

 

If you read up through the thread you'll see that I had a better experience with the Wetterlings than the GB and it was cheaper.
As for being worth it, that's always in the eye of the beholder. I'm not familiar with the Truper maul so I can't say how they compare. The Wetterlings is a fantastic tool. That I can speak to.

 

Keep the handle away from water. It is only a temporary solution and weakens the timber handle in the long term. The moisture levels of the handle when it was wedged in the factory may have been a bit high and it subsequently dried out, thereby causing it to loosen. There are a number of solutions to your problem. First: you could soak the handle in a mixture of linseed oil and turpentine (about half and half). Put the mixture in a container and place the head in with it. Keep the the handle upright. Leave for as long as possible (a week to a month). Repeat over the lifetime of the implement. Second: if you are useful with your hands, remove the handle entirely from the head. This involves a certain level of skill, patience and, perhaps, luck. Put the handle back on. Get a larger wooden wedge than the original to secure the handle. Finish off by driving in the original metal wedge (if you were able to save it). If you don't have the confidence/know how/skill to do the job yourself, get a carpenter or tradesman that is 'handy' to do it for you (Wranglerstar has a youtube video on how to rehandle an axe/maul). Third: you could drive in an extra metal wedge to secure the handle, but it would be a last resort IMHO.
Handles should be regularly given a coating of linseed oil/turpentine, especially around the area where they are joined to the implement in order to prevent shrinkage. Ideally, the handles should be as dry as possible before wedging, and the subsequent application of the coating.

 

Thanks.

 

Thanks for the info. I've never thought about the linseed oil/turpentine mix. I knew water was only a temporary fix, but did not really think about it making the wood weaker. Glad you joined and let me know this. Thanks

 

Great info, I'm glad I came across this. Does soaking the head in the mixture have any affect on the axe head itself? Can't imagine it does, just wondering.

 

Here's my GB Scandinavian Axe.....best steel I've seen in an axe.

 

Nice looking piece of artwork there.

 

Very nice something special about well crafted tool. Not always easy to explain the expense but just something special when it is in your hand.

 

X's 2

 

Here's my high end work ax

 

It had been a while since I last did the haft and it was showing wear and tear from all the traveling and gobs of pine , fir and spruce sap so I scraped it down with my knife and gave it a fresh start with a mix of turps , tung and linseed oil because that's what I had .



I'll give it a few more coats but she's ready to go back to work .

 

A couple of GB, couple of HB.......... I paid $1.00 or $2.00 each for most of them @ yard sales.

 

Awesome I'll keep that in mind.