In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

Finally got my new stove

Discussion in 'The Wood Pile' started by Snafu2, Jan 28, 2015.

  1. Woodchuck

    Woodchuck

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    Be sure to post your reviews and thoughts about the new stove. I am still using the same Riteway 37 for the 30th season!
    The Riteway has served me well over the years but I know it's not very efficient and I waste a lot of wood. I never worried about it as I have always had plenty to burn.
    I might begin the hunt for a new stove next season...would like to hear about your upgrade :)
     
  2. bearverine

    bearverine

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    Love it. My old school princess plows through the wood on wide open, but get a big load going and then close it down, and she'll run all night no problem. I'd be plain old obnoxious if I had one of the new catilytics to play with.
     
  3. My IS heats my home

    My IS heats my home

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    That riteway looks like a workhorse. It's got some time and miles on it but still looks good.
    Congrats on the BK...
     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2015
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  4. Snafu2

    Snafu2

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    I like the riteway 37 for the shop
    I like be able to really get the shop hot to thaw things out
    Most people look at it like it's a pile of junk but they don't under stand the output it has I know first hand last winter it was my ONLY heat in the house I plan to rebuild it and use it for many years to come !!
    I will post burn times and my thoughts on it once I have it longer for sure
     
  5. Backwoods Savage

    Backwoods Savage Moderator

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    Whoa! Why are you running the stove with full air? That usually is not good for the stove and you will waste as much or more heat than what you get by leaving it at full air. Get it started then turn it down is usually the best bet.
     
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  6. Snafu2

    Snafu2

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    Hmm always ran the stoves on full damper when it's past like 30below out
    Don't get me wrong the door is closed and cat valve closed too
    Most people I know up here run there stoves on full damper when it's super cold out
    Believe me when it's not 30 below or colder I do turn down my stoves to save on wood
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2015
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  7. crzybowhntr

    crzybowhntr

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    I`m patiently waiting to get my new energy king furnace in the basement so I can move my Buck 2700 to the garage!
     
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  8. Sam

    Sam

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    I may have missed it in another post but how big of a place are you heating with the Princess? At 30 below everyone has to run their stoves a little different I would imagine!
     
  9. Sam

    Sam

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    I know how you feel, I'm waiting for the NC-30's to go on sale so I can move my Answer to the basement and the Daka to the shop! It's like a woodstove dance sometimes it seems.
     
  10. Snafu2

    Snafu2

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    1150sqft log house
    1100sqft shop
    Yea 30 below has a way of changing things
     
  11. fox9988

    fox9988

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    I know log houses can be leaky. My friend's is. How is your's? How is the attic insulation?
     
  12. Sam

    Sam

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    I was wondering at what outside temp are our stoves rated to heat their designated sq. ft? At 30 below I'd think you're right in the realm of good taste with the Princess heating 1150 sq ft; running wide open on the wood you have available. We hardly ever get down to that temp here but below zero my Answer (hardly half the stov, design-wise as a Princess) has all she wants to do to maintain 70 indoors with around a 5 hour burn and that's just responsible for the main floor of our ranch style house at 1800 sq. ft +/- (of leaky early 90's build quality).
     
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  13. fox9988

    fox9988

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    Good question. Any experienced burner will realize burn times will go down as demand increases. Going through a full load in a Princess every 7 hrs, as the OP is at -30F, is calling for lots of heat. If he needed 14 hr burns, he could only heat half the footage in these conditions.
    Too many variables to put a solid # on burn times or sqft ratings. Manufacturers need to rate them for potential buyers, some use conservative real world expectations, some advertise best case scenario burn times and sqft. People need to do some research (on FHC :BrianK:) before buying. Sorry, I know all this is old news for most of us and doesn't answer the original question.
     
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  14. Snafu2

    Snafu2

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    Not leaky no attic
    I like my house to be 75+ I work to hard to be cold in my house so burning more wood is no big deal to me
     
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  15. Backwoods Savage

    Backwoods Savage Moderator

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    I understand the need for heat and we've been in colder air and had no problem but there has never been a way with any of our stoves that we could run with full draft. In addition, with a catalyst, it would seem you are not getting full use of the cat so it would seem if you turn that draft down, you should get the same heat or possibly more and but a lot less wood. Running a stove with full air is old school and you should not need to do that any more.

    Just for kicks, we have a Woodstock Fireview, which is a cat stove. When it gets below zero and we are ready for bed I fill the stove and once the fire is established, turn down the draft. Ours has numbers 0-4. Full open is four and once the fire is going we will have the draft set anywhere from .5, or .75 and a few times on 1 but no higher than that. We have had not much for cold this year with only a few nights below zero. I do remember one night when the stove had ash and oak. The house temperature was 80 when I went to bed. In the morning I got up and the house temperature was down to 76. That was 5 splits in the stove for the overnight burn.
     
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  16. bearverine

    bearverine

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    Now THAT'S the kind of efficiency I'm looking for.
     
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