Wood Stove Selection!

REALLY?
Go to Homey Depot....they do.
Consider long term fuel cost too.
I know you have seemingly unlimited wood, but if you can use less over the course of the next 20 years because you upped the insulation, why not?

 

Someone just say yes or no....Will an indoor stove keep every room in the house between say 65-75 degrees no hotter no cooler?

 

Home Depot in 60 miles away! lol

 

Yeah, ours is about 36.
60....ouch!

 

Honestly? No. Not with the floor plan you have on your youtube thing. Way to many walls in what should be an open type floor plan. All those walls and closets are going to add to construction time and costs even if the lumber is free for the cutting. Open up the kitchen area to the living/family room area where most of a families time is spent. Move the chitter closer to this area also. Bedrooms? Well I been married to the same gal for over 35 years but if our bedroom gets to cold we still know how to rectifie that situation.

 

Are these strictly for an add on to an existing furnace, or could the op use this as a single unit and run a trunk like to even out the heat?\

http://www.amfmenergy.com/50trw35--addon-wood-furnace--3050353000.html

 

Hi BP,
There is no yes and no to your question. If you have an open floor plan the heat will be more even than if the layout is closed off. Yeah I know duh, but you asked. A 2 degree temp differential in every room seems like an unusually stringent requirement. I doubt even some high systems come in that close.

 

Sorry ww, can't "like" that.

 

This one.

 

Welcome to FHC BP! As others have already stated you won't have even heat throughout your home with that floor plan. If you open up the hallway on one side it'll help a lot. I'm heating a 1900sqft early 1950's farm house and it gets chilly in the farthest rooms when it's -15 out. (Is that cold Butcher???)

It sounds like some kind of boiler or forced air setup is what your truly after. There are some high effiencey units out there.

Oh and airseal & insulate the heck out of the place!!!

 

My home is somewhat open and two stories. The stove room is the living room and dining room. It will stay 80+ in there. The bedroom that is only several feet away is also 80 F. The kitchen is around 75 and the den off the kitchen is where I keep my thermostat for the Natural gas furnace is typically 70-73. The farthest room is our sun/mud room and that is probably 70 F. Upstairs is generally cold - no insulation. It is around 70 F.

 

Ok, so say I do put in an outdoor furnace...The one I was looking at says it comes with 2 550 cfm fans. Would that be enough to push the air through the ducts? Length of the house is 60ft. Then is there a way to just hook up a thermostat to those fans to switch them on and off automatically?

 

I'm confused. What manner of OWB are you looking at? I know over a dozen friends that have them and they are all a circulated liquid type boiler that runs thru a heat exchanger to extract the heat from the liquid and blow it around the house. Are you saying that the boiler you are looking at is forced air only? I have only seen home made boilers built that way. Maybe a link to the boiler you are planning on buying would help give a better understanding to your decision. Nother question. Is this home going to have a basement? Not tryin to beat a dead horse here just trying to get a better understanding of what you are up against. I am assuming you are not trying to live completely off grid and will have electricity to your new home? Maybe a good wood stove in the house and electric baseboard heat to even out the temps in the rooms that get cool? And just one more question to totally muddy the waters. What are you planning for the hot summer months to keep from sweating yer self to death when the heat and humidity come on like the hubsahell? I would take all these factors into mind when doing my punch list on the final construction plans.

 

I have 1,800 sf 1950's ranch. Wall insulation is original, attic is r-30. With temps in the normal winter range for this area (daytime highs in the low 40s, nighttime lows in the mid 20s) my living room stove keeps the living area of the house in the low 70s and the bedrooms in the upper 60s. When we get an extreme cold spell I light the downstairs stove and the whole house stays in the low 70s. Both stoves are centrally located and vent via an internal masonry chimney. I like two stoves. I rather run two stove gently than push one stove hard.

YMMV, every house is different. Seal all the air leaks and put as much insulation as you can. Nobody can give you a definitive answer for your home but many people on this site have great success heating with wood.

KaptJaq

 

Butcher.....you are da man..lmao

 

You sure are gonna be cutting a lot of tongue and groove for your floors, walls, and ceilings! I have a 1940's rental cottage that was built with heart pine tongue and groove like you are describing. Even with the T&G the shrinkage of the boards in winter causes a good bit of air infiltration through the joints. Which is part of why I provide wood for my renters. How long have you had your wood laid up drying for the floors, walls, and ceilings?