What splitter do you have? Post pic

I have 30 years on a Super split and all my digits

 

Same here to much big ugly stuff or I would order one

 

I can see this splitter is a danger to those with bad work habits
I worked mechanical press breaks and 150 ton punch presses and also have all my fingers

 

$1800 Hmmmm, tempting, I may have to noodle the ugly's

 

At first release, their quality was not up to the original SS..
Not sure what they've changed to improve durability...

 

Researching them, here there was a recall last year, not much info about it

 

My rebuilt HF 30T unit

 

Yep, those SS units scare the crap out of me too. Be carefull guys!

 

Sometimes the scariest ones are the safest... Keeps your head in the game...

 

Wood production moves along so fast you won't even worry about the ugly's...

SuperSplits are not all the fast that things are out of control.. I only need to run my at half speed even... Tough stuff I go full throttle , 95% of the time half speed is fine, the splitter is still waiting on you... 98% of my wood needs no noodling... If it does the Supersplit makes up for production the rest of the time. Picture of a 10 cord load I was doing with my old SuperSplit about 6 years ago.. No production table back then. My new one has one.. The splitter pictured was 25 years old at the time..

 

This is SS splitting Hedge... About 1/2 - 2/3 throttle...

 

Sold my first Super split after 25 years to buy one of these Split Fires that did 30 inch long splits... I used these splits for a wood gasification boiler that would just fit 30 in long splits.. Once I moved I sold the Split Fire and went back to a Super Split having regular wood stoves again.. The SplitFire was a great machine with the log lift, splitting in both directions, plus the wedge had a pin that you pushed out to change wedges and could use the single wedge if need be, quick to do.. That was a very well built machine... I just didn't need the long stroke so I sold it..

 

Charlie, you have a log cabin style house? I ALWAYS wanted one of those, love those houses!

SPLITTERS
I'd still like to know/understand why somebody hasn't made a reasonably priced (less than $1,500) splitter with a lift! It's no that difficult, what is the problem? The Ariens/Husky/Dirty hand tools 20-22 ton splitters are all about $1000. Simply change the hydro control valve from a single to a double valve, add a small lift cylendar and a lift "basket" thingy. You could probably do it for less then $200 of cost, and sell it for $1,500 instead of 1000, so your profit also just went up!

 

We sold the log cabin after 8 years.. John DeVries Timber Frame and log homes built it in Tweed Ontario... Then took it apart and brought it down,,, They did super nice work and became our good friends.. Great people to deal with. The logs averaged 14- 24 inches in diameter.. We saw a Farm with lots of acres and moved...

Yes a log lift is great... When I had the SplitFire I would load it up with rounds and just keep feeding them onto the splitting beam.. Worked great.. Good question why they don't add a log lift.. I think because most of those splitters go vertical.

 

Just traded my sister my "like new" MS 250C-BE for her 26 Ton "Wood General" splitter, 8 hp Tecumseh. I'm not sure who made/sold it years back, but there were always stacks of split wood here at her place in Lockport, NY. I know my brother-ex-law put it to good use, but it looks decent peeking under its tarp cover just before dark today. I'll get it out and see how it runs tomorrow. I'll post photos after I get it back to Ohio.

 

Overall it has been fine, they are no longer available from HF, Ran it for about 7 years in original shape, but due to over stressing it a few to many times, I sprung the beam and bent the foot plate. Wore out the original valve, so at that point I figured I might as well beef it up and correct a couple mfg. shortcuts. It would get very hot in short order due to restricted fittings( 11gpm) Plus I never used it in Vertical, so reversed it. Put high flow fittings on it got rid of a restricting hard line, new valve with 3/4" ports. The return line is located too high on the tank , no baffle, so that was adding to heat problems. Made an aux tank plumbed above original tank. so that is the breather/ fill unit and the lower tank is completely full. No more heat issues still using original cylinder, pump, and briggs motor. That double 4x6x 1/4wall box beam I made blows any h or w beam out of the water. Was cheaper too at the time. It has split around 80 cord since the rebuild, no issues.