My pole barn ceiling (and walls) was covered with styrofoam when I bought the place, but was still really hard to heat until I put In the sheetrock and insulation above in the ceiling
I have seriously been considering a 30'000 btu unit but I am not sure what the cost would be to do that route. I don't want to be stuck using propane given how much cheaper kerosine is for me to use. I used a propane heater last winter and it chewed through a 20lb tank in 4 hours flat. At 19.99 a fill up it gets expensive. I'd be interested to know how long a 30,000 btu wall mount direct vent would go on a 100lb tank??
I don't know what that would cost I use to heat the pole barn with a big azz kerosene heater. I have a 60,000 BTU gas furnace in the pole barn but I haven't used it in a long time
I'm at roughly 700sq ft. I use a 75,000 btu Mr Heater contractor series kero heater that works great in combination with the ceiling fan. It gets about 12 hrs on 3 gallons. If I could install pellets and heat it year round boy I'd be in paradise! I can imagine 60,000 btu is a big amount to stomach for a heat bill too.
The furnace had no problem heating it, before I retired I kept my pole barn/wood shop heated at 50 all the time. I dug a trench ran the gas line out there and put the furnace in myself, the furnace was in fine shape and came from my house because I uppgraded to a 80,000 BTU furnace. Just an idea!!! maybe you could do that and find a good deal on a furnace on Craigslist,. Just run it when you need it. Again I'm just throwing ideas out there
I'm late to the party, but hey, I'd paint the block w/drylock, then I'd glue foam board all around first, fitting tight one piece to the next, taping the seams and then I'd stud it out.
I am a little late to the party as well. I have done this on a building that I own. I did it 20+years ago. 1"x4" treated - top, middle and bottom of the wall - running horizontally. 2" extruded foam board - vertically - tape all the seams and the top. leave about 1/2" air gap at the bottom to let the condensation that does come thru the block the ability to dry out. there shouldn't be much moisture but the just in case it can escape or dry. Frame out the wall with 2x material and add more insulation in that cavity of just let it be a dead air space. 4-6 mil poly and sheetrock. Green board not necessary IMO. I have cut into this wall cavity and it is as nice as the day I put it in. I have had to tuckpoint the blockt from the exterior to maintain it but a days work once every 3 years is not bad. It is used by a mechanic and he heats the building with a waste oil furnace.
Working on finishing our basement now. Drylock. Glue 2 inch polyiso board (R13) directly to the wall. Tape the seams with foil tape. Studs butted up against the foam. Drywall.
