So I am considering ways to start working on insulation in my detached garage / shop next spring after the tuck pointing is finished. My idea is 16" on center stud walls with rolled insulation. Filling the block isn't an option due to the insane cost. It's about $3000. I can build stud walls with free lumber and use blown n or rolled for a lot less. The roof is going to get pink closed cell shoved between the rafters over the winter. Has anybody done something like this? It's roughly 30' by 30' with the front being 15' tall and the back 12' tall.
Have you considered doing foam board on the outside? Keep the cold from getting to the block in the first place. I want to do that on the portions of my house with slab on block. Snow melts a few inches away from the block, so I know I'm losing heat.
I have and it's gonna be expensive because I would need to side it then. I want the block to breath outside so I can vapor barrier inside the garage. I'm going to install a vent indoors for the winter months. It's an old carriage garage and is supposed to have one by code but doesn't. The inside will be paneled with white board regardless of what insulation is used. I need it bright the dingy is killing me lol.... Inside is also nice because I don't need to worry about a permit.
No it's hollow stacked but it's so old I do not want to fill it with anything. The concern is separation but also the block has cores so filling it wouldn't do much in Michigan. The cores would effectively create bridges for the cold to come through? Or so I think. The cost of filling is $3000 for the cheapest contractor. I'd like it to be a summer project for me to do so it's cheaper and I have it done the way I want as well.
If that's the plan, um, untype that. Mine too. Does the inside of the block need a plastic barrier first then? Make sure no moisture gets trapped between the block and your new insulated wall.
I am not sure to be honest. I know the walls need to breath! I'm thinking a block paint would do good then plastic. If I used closed cell foam that might be considered moister barrier too??
Funny you post this. I'm in the process of finding options for a commercial tile building I own. Want it super insulated/efficient . Will be putting in rented office space . Pretty sure I'm going with foam. Just not sure of process as far as moisture barrier, final treatment, etc.
I was going to suggest closed cell foam if the block was not solid filled. The foam would create both the vapor barrier and insulate all in one shot. 3K seems kind of high if thats the same quote as I was talking about
When building our house the cheapest closed cell estimate was more than 10x the price I fiberglassed for. Closed cell is a vapor barrier.
There were only 3 spray foam business' in my area 10 Years ago when I did my shop . It was $2/sq ft at that time. there are now 15+ business' in my area. Quote now is $.85/sq ft. Competition is great
This is an easy one. Closed cell spray foam should run $1.00 +- per "board foot"....that is 12 inches by 12 inches by 1 inch deep. You have the right idea with studs 16 inches on center, however, fiberglass insulation in this situation is a sub optimal choice. I have done this exact job in my house twice and got great results. Here was the process: 1. Caulk all cracks, gaps etc with paintable caulk. 2. Coat the walls with Drylock. 3. Studs 16 inches on center, attached to the block via a concrete gun (available at Homies or Lowes) The stud size (depth) you choose is somewhat dependent on your budget, because..... 4. Cut foam board to fit between the studs. There are differences in the foam board found in big box stores and it's important to know them. Polystyrene is [email protected] is similar in composition to a foam coffee cup and falls apart like tissue paper. Cutting the stuff is a nightmare and its R-value stinks at only 3 per inch. Polyurethane is the pink or blue boards you see. It's better than polystyrene with an R of 5 per inch. Polyiso is the best with an R value of 8 per inch. It is usually foil faced so you have a radiant barrier. It is also the most expensive. 5. Tape the seams where the foam board meets the studs. 6. Sheetrock over the studs, preferably with greenboard, tape spackle and paint. The rocket scientist who built my house did not put any vapor barrier or insulation between the sheetrock and block wall in our rec room. It was miserably hot and humid in the summer, cold and drafty in the winter. I did the aforementioned project and it made a world of difference. Good luck.
My house is 24 x48 made entirely of block. 10 inch block for the basement and 6 inch block for the ground floor. On the ground floor it is the 6" block, 1/2 " foil faced celotex , 2x4 studs with 3 1/2" unfaced fiberglass bats between studs, plastic stapled to the studs and then the sheet rock. Seems to be working pretty good considering we live in the middle of a wind tunnel in the winter. Problem areas are just around the windows since the builder didn't use jamb blocks for the openings and inserted contractor grade (i.e. cheap) replacement type windows. No real recommendations in that but whatever you do will be better than nuthin. It sounds like the garage has no ceiling? I would seriously consider putting 1 in and Blow that sucker full of as much cellulose as you can afford. The foam between the rafters is going to create a condensation problem when heat from below meets the cold from above. Don't forget to install some vents to the roof if you go the ceiling route.
Vents yup need those real bad.... I dint realize the roof would mold from closed cell but that's good to know! I might roll the ceilings with bats of insulation as it would be cheaper and easy to do. The roof is 12" on center 2* 16 rafters. Blown in is a good idea but I don't have the nuts to climb a ladder 15' in the air to install ceiling boards lol. That's a scary thought....
Errr umm no! Lol I want to but the county and insurance say no way brother! It's ok though I think my kero torch will heat it great once it's insulated... That heater gets it to the 60's in minutes and it has a built in thermostat that shuts it down at the set temp. I want to install a pellet stove but I have to seal it up and remove the garage doors before they will let me do that. I have been considering an outside wast oil burner That would pump the heat into it though. They will go for that BUT it has to be EPA approved, installed by a professional and inspected. I'm looking at around $2300 for that option. I am NOT installing a furnace... Lol
