I'm wondering if these are acceptable size chips? I gave the chain 3 file strokes when I stopped to fill up the tanks. Chain is Stihl 36 RM, I just have the typical file guide kit you get at the dealer in the orange roll up pouch. I ran the same saw with Stihl 36 RS chain it seems to throw bigger chips. The wood I was cutting was semi dry elm.
looks normal for RM chain, your RS will always throw more consistent chips and less bits/dust. You can check the rakers by placing a straight edge over 2 cutters and use a feeler gauge for setting them
Thanks, my chain sharping skills always have room for improvement, just wanted to check chip size. I never ran RM until the other day, put a new loop of it on. I've only touched it up three times since it came out of the box. I think I like the way RS cuts, over the RM, at least in this wood I am cutting. I will put a straight edge on it and some feelers to see were they are at. I did put the little tool that comes with the file guide kit on it and the nubs were not above, so I left them alone. I've ran PM on my 241, but like it better with PS.
I used to file with a hand guide and then a buddy gave me a granberg style file-n-joint...never looked back They will give you a near perfect file everytime. Now I file chains in the vise 6 at a time and have a rotation when necessary
If the wood is off the ground and clean, stick with rs. That said, the chips look fine. Rm is nice for dirty wood.
+1 Hard to go back to semi chisel after running a full chisel isn't it. I got spoiled first time I ran a full chisel. Chips look like the chain is sharp
looks fine from here.. RS is much faster in clean wood, but the first sign of dirt or rot... stop and take a few swipes before you roll the top edge over and have to file a lot more to get the edge back.
Those are some nice chips!! I'm going to go back to the RS. Most of the wood at this place is what I'd call clean. Meaning its off the ground. Its' a lot at the back of a large farm, were a tree service cleared out a few large tree rows or wind breaks of dying elm trees. They stacked all trees at the back of this farm in one long row, it has to be 175-200 yards long. And it is stacked 3-4 feet high. I've just been cutting wood off the tops of the stacks, so not anywhere near the dirt yet. I've been meaning to buy one of those Granberg units for a while now, just always forget when I am at the computer ordering something. I looked on eBay for one, and see two different models, 106A and 106B anyone know the differences between the two?
Be careful cutting trees on farms anywhere from head height to the ground. It's amazing how many nails and electric fence pieces and insulators are buried in them trees. Take multiple chains if you have them!!!!
I notice a difference in chips with different wood types. Cottonwood is fast cutting & big chips, birch is a bit harder & smaller chips Can't imagine dry locust, chips & sparks would look totally different than any wood I cut here. Full chisel is much faster & in clean wood it will stay sharp a long time. I'm having good performance with LPX, Liked the RS too, but more expensive than LPX & LGX. For my cutting, the LPX / LGX stays sharper longer than the RS (not sure why ) but it has a 5° less sharpening angle Wonder if I sharpened RS at 25°, if it would stay sharp longer ?
The less angle you put the longer it will last. There's more meat supporting the corner. The first picture was maple and the 2nd was oak I think. Been a while since those pictures were took.
same thing with a bit of side plate angle, I played with a 10-15deg angle and they lose a corner after a tank/2 - will throw some chips though
