School me on sharpener or file

I have access to an electric sharpener. Should I use it? The old man tried it out on the chains and really messed them. But, it was his first time and there was no training....
I have a round file with the guide on it.
Which is better?
Does the round file keep the curve better in the gullet? Does it matter?

 

If you don't know how to use an electric sharpener you can indeed turn a chain into junk in short order. You can equally screw up a chain with a hand file, just makes your arm a little more tired.

As for results, when properly done, an electric sharpener will give great results. There are "purists" and race chain guys who get chains stupid sharp with a hand file, but for the average firewood guy an electric sharpener is hard to beat.

Read this:

http://firewoodhoardersclub.com/forums/threads/chain-sharpening-tutorial.4484/

 

Thanks lukem,
Took a while to read that thread last night.

 

After going through this learning process 3 years ago, I'm a big fan of Husqvarna's roller guides:



I've used Stihls guides too, which I think are junk after using the roller guides. It makes sharpening by hand very easy. For firewood processing, I don't need anything faster than that.

 

I free hand file and then power grind when the teeth get rocked or I mess the angles up.

 

I did some cutting the other day with the first chains I sharpened on my new-to-me grinder. I think I got it, if you want to bring some chains over.

Some folks use the HF grinder with success. I think it takes some modification for good results, though.

 

Electrics have the tendency to overheat the cutter tip, which softens the metal.
Files have a tendency to make different angle & different size cutters.

Either used by an experienced operator will do a good job.

A good file with a guide is a few bucks,
a good grinder will cost more.

I file ,
after all ,
it's just firewood.

 

I still haven't found a better sharpening tool than Granberg "File-N-Joint". Less than $30 at NT. IMHO the other filing guides are kludges. and grinders (I do have one) are for rocked chains. No way are you going to grind a chain sharper than filing. When you can do that out in the woods- priceless!

 

When it comes to sharpness and accuracy the husky is hard to beat..i can get my chains very sharp with a few strokes

 

Does that guide lower the file as the cutters get shorter? With the "junk" Stihl guide the hook is always the same no matter the height of the cutter. Can also put some thin shim stock between file and guide to get more hook if wanted.

 

Isn't that what I was referring to? I asked about the roller guide and giving advise why the top guides are not junk.

 

The Timberline Sharpener is an excellent tool, I have hand filed for ever but about halfway through the chain or after a "rock concert" , it really brings all the important angles back . No electric and works on the saw, anywhere.http://www.timberlinesharpener.com

My first post, got a newb section here?

 

Imo the roller guides make it easy even for a novice to sharpen a chain..

 

Well, tried out the chicago electric sharpener yesterday after watching several videos. That thing is sloppy! However, I used it to my advantage and I got some nice looking chains now. I had to use a "scoop" motion to sharpen the teeth. But, now the teeth are all the same size, at the correct angle and they at least feel sharp. I will need to use the flat file to take down the rakers yet. Saturday I should be cutting again and will find out. Took me a couple of hours to do 4 chains (20"). Yes, they were that bad.

 

I take my chains in to my stihl dealer only when rocked or the angles on the teeth are out of whack. They're not one of the fancy new places I've been to, but I think a part time helper grinds on the chains cause there is alot left to be desired...so ya nothing like a proper hand filed chain for sharpness IMO.

 

I love my Dremel.

 

I have never seen one of those but that looks like a great idea! Might have to find one of those

 

This one does a real nice job:



The left hand one is for rakers, the middle for .325.