Any body have or work on a 028 Stihl?

Dad just got back from a garage sale and picked up this saw for $10.00. Never had a medium size Stihl and was wondering if any of you guys have experience with this model. Give me the good, bad and ugly if possible. I will see what he has tomorrow as I haven't delved into yet. Turns over and pulls like it has compression. I'll get a test on it tomorrow too. I'd like to get him hooked on Stihl as he's a dieheart old school Homelite guy.

Appreciate any insight on these or things to watch out for. Pics not a problem if you need more. Lady said she new nothing about it as it was her Dad's who passed away and she had no idea about it.

 

They are good saws. Stihl made zillions of them over a long period of time. There-in lies the problem, so many different iterations of the 028 over time makes the IPL for them a telephone book, with some parts being NLA, others not interchangible between iterations and some parts just way too expensive, like the first electronic ignition saw having a coil that is a $100 used if you can find it! Bunches of different starter mechanisms. Yours appears to be a points and condenser ignition, because I don't see the 'electronic' badge on the saw.

The above is what happens when a saw has a very long production life. As time goes by parts will become even harder to find. My advice, if it runs, clean it up, and dump it for 25$, if it doesn't sell it for parts because you will have way more than 10 in it before you get it going!

 

Say what??!! I'd say that saw would fetch $100+ easy my guess. It's a Stihl and a good firewood saw.

The 028 is very similar to my 038, and when running that is a nice saw. Note the "when running", because mine is giving me fits but I haven't gotten the time to tinker again. This perhaps gives credence to

I bought mine toasted, I'm in it for $200 after P/C swap and now who knows what's next...

I'd say KRL got it 1/2 right.

 

The trick with 028 Stihls is knowing which one you have, a late version of the saw you will probably do well with, an early version will give you heartburn! The fact that it is a Stihl does not always mean a saw of value, the name alone cannot overcome NLA parts, and used parts are most often only said to be from an 028 and the seller has no clue what version of the 028 his parts are from so, IMHO getting the correct parts is a crap shoot. IIRC the 028 had 5 different tanks over its' lifetime and most do not interchange, three or more flywheels, coils that do not interchange unless you change the flywheel, all sorts of stuff went on during its' production lifespan.

The last one I repaired was a first model electronic ignition, wire going from the coil to the switch was bad, no big deal you say, well the wire on the first model is moulded into the coil not replaceable and it was bare wire from where it came out of the coil. Had to look for a first model coil took several months to find one, there are 191 028 coils on eBay right now, not a one for a first model 028 electronic!

 

Sounds like you should recoup your 10 spot by sending it to me.

 

My dad cut every piece of wood we burned for 15yrs with one of those and I still have it. He had to put a new sprocket on it when the other one wore clear through and the chain quit turning other than that it's all original and I could go start it today and cut no problem.

 

The last 028 I sold fetched $200.00
It was in good shape...
And yes, points are a pain in the azz...
There is an 029 coil swap though if you should ever need to..
Many parts are absolutely NLA, from Stihl, but you can scrounge around for them..

Kevin... I believe you have the old 46cc variant...

 

Talk to Boog.

 

I bought one from my neighbor for sixty bucks, great running saw.

 

I had a late model 028 had about 300 into it after the price paid and taking it to the stihl dealerthat cured me I only work on my saws from now on.I ran into an old friend after coming back from the stihl shop about how I wish I never bought the 028 had to much into it.He told me he had been looking for 028 wood boss and said he would give me 300 for it.I told him you don't want this saw You can find one nicer for alot less.He insisted I sell it to him after I was refusing too.He put his money where is mouth was and took the saw I couldn't believe it.He sure was happy to get it and the crazy thing is was the only stihl I ever had and I never even got to run it.I bought a muffler modded 346xp with a sugihara bar after that and never missed that 028.

 

I would imagine all it needs is fuel system work and maybe points. I have had mine for 29 years and no real problems. Mine is a little newer than yours, electronic ignition. Run the first 26 years with no problems at all on gasohol no less. Never even drained the tank. Ran fine but took it in for checkup as I had another saw to use. replaced fuel system parts, about all. Saw is a little heavy by todays standards, but not bad. Will cut alot of wood and very reliable for me anyway.

 

Saws like the 028 are a big reason I grew up a stihlhead. Ya not fancy but a pretty solid firewood saw.

 

Thanks for the replies guys. Didn't have much time today but here is what I found and have tried.

Pulled the plug and checked for spark- Looks real strong while shorting to the cylinder with screwdriver so that is a good sign.

Compression tested 165 PSI

Carb set at 1 out high, 1 1/4 out low. No monkey marks on the screws and lines "look" good"

Drained the fuel which smelled fine and put in fresh. Pulled over with choke on and nothing. Pulled plug and put in some fuel and it hits about 3 times, hits more with full throttle. Thinking I may have wet the plug too much with the dumped in fuel I put the same plug in a runner. Runner hit the second pull and ran fine. Put the plug back in the 028 and same thing, hits about 3 times. Never got it to run more than that but hits almost every time with the same result. Have the air filter off while trying it and seems to blow back a little more than I'd expect it to. I also took out the spark arrestor screen and it is perfectly clean. I did not put it back in.

Any ideas what to look for/try next? Putting the switch in the off position makes it not hit at all so it is working there.

If I had a crankcase or cylinder issue the compression would not be there correct?

 

Thought about what the saw is doing and am leaning towards maybe the timing is off. I'm hoping that maybe the flywheel key has stripped. Sound feasible? If I get time I'll look into that possibility tomorrow. Sometimes I have to step away from things and think about the symptoms. Normally it ends up being something simple that I overlook. Does this idea seem logical to you experts out there?

 

Not an expert, but I'd look into the fuel system (carb included).

 

First determine if the saw is points&condensor or electronic. If points check the timing. Also some Stihl saws had both an 'a' and 'b' keyway in the flywheel, mark which one your saw is using before pulling the flywheel. Don't think you will remember, you won't! Don't ask me why I know.

 

Okay, had some time and this is what I found It is an 028 WB. serial # 210394596 the I THINK the last two numbers are 96, they are heavy stameped and hard to tell. the others are pretty plain.



Got the flywheel nut off and mark the shaft and flywheel in relation to each other as you suggested.



My guess was wrong as the key is present and fine. Nothing looks out of place but there was some corrosion on the points and coil contacts.





Points contact seemed a little misaligned but one is bigger than the other and they do make basically full contact. I cleaned everything up hoping that maybe that was it and tried it again. Same thing. Put the plug in the runner and it started first pull. Plug back in the 028 and the same. pulled with the plug out and grounded and it seems to be a little intermittant. Maybe the coil is just weak?

I did not reset the points or change them from what they originally were. I'm not sure how to do it so can anyone give me the run down here. I checked the coil gap before taking it off and it had a wider gap than I normally set. It had over 3 sheets of notebook paper {guessing .013 - .015) where I set to 2 , around .006. What do you guys set them to? I tried both and noticed no real difference.

I then tried closing the gap on the plug, thinking a weak coil may show up that way, still the same.



Plug still fires fine in the runner so I'm stumped again. I have more than enough fuel going to it to at least run for a little while so I don't feel it is a fuel issue. Is there a way you can test a coil? I traced the wire runs and see no bare spots and looks pretty good actually. Any insight much appreciated on this.

 

Found this on UTube




Anybody use this?

 

If you cannot get to the points to adjust with the flywheel in place? Some 028 have little access plugs in the flywheel. You remove the plug, reach through, and adjust. Gap is .014 -.016" Or, set it with a timing light and dial indicator to 2.1 mm BTDC If by chance, you have a flywheel with no plugs, you will HAVE to use a light and dial indicator. You don't need special Stihl tools - but just for reference: Stihl dial indicator kit for timing - 1106 890 8700 Stihl "buzz box" light for timing - 0000 890 8905