Picking Up A Free MS 260 Pro (Damaged)

Yea the only difference in the pro I think is an adjustable oiler. Maybe something else but not the plastic .

 

Get the ill to confirm if no one can 100% tell you. But I'm 99% sure its the same.

 

PRO 026/260 has an adj. oil pump and a decomp starter button. Only differences between then. Some of both types have clear gas tanks and/or non-H jet tune carbs. Early 026 models (both types) have a different type of fuel tank vent and smaller air filter.

 

Chicom crap. Stihl nikasil is made differently and to far better specs. You would be better off with a good used Mahle OEM P&C and new Caber rings than these aftermarket Chinese engine kits. Stihl P&C will generally last 2x as long (gold Stihl mechanic buddy's experience tearing hundreds of them down).

 

Plastic is the same on the PRO and non-PRO, except for the top cover on 026 models, which have the decomp hole on the PRO models. The 260 has a decomp hole on both top covers, with a plug on the non-PRO. The 026s have screw in oil and gas caps, and the MS260 models have flippy caps.

There are other subtle differences with the tank vent and AF mounts on early, mid and late model back handles on 026s. The back handle and air filter covers only fit as a set, and you have to use the vents and AFs and covers that fit the handles. They are all interchangeable as complete sets though. Meaning you can put an early model handle on a newer saw with an older smaller air filter, tower tank vent, and early model air filter cover.

 

Also, the 026 has a slightly smaller bore piston than the 260, but the same stroke. The two engines can be swapped between all years of 026 and 260 saws, with no mods. However, they are a set and the P, C and rings have to be either 44.7mm (260) or 44.0mm (026).

 

I agree. If he can pay $50 for piston cylinder and get 5 years of climbing cutting I think that's a good deal.

Bret u sure u need a cylinder? If its just light piston scratchs I bet you doñt. Just put a piston and set of caber rings in it.

 

Well, I would counter with what good is having a crappy Chicom engine saw? May as well import one direct from China, and pay $50 for the entire saw, new. If you want cheap, get cheap. That way you don't even have to bother having to put a saw together, or waste any time figuring it out.

 

The scoring is very minimal and I'm sure I don't absolutely have to have it for compression or running sake. The broken cooling fins is what worried me some. 3 of them are gone as well as the circular ring that the decompression valve sits inside of. I'm guessing it will run a bit hotter with the fins gone.

This "kit" price is decent: http://www.ebay.com/itm/STIHL-024-0...147?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5af703f453 and it gets me a lot of what I need but there are many others as well and it looks like some of them will have to be OEM unless I can find them used somewhere. I'm pretty sure the only way the numbers are going to work out is to go Chinese on the plastic.

 

Well ok, moving right along now ...................

 

That's basically the same kit I bought. I got the tank cover and top plastic and air filter in the deal.

 

Sell the 260 on ebay, let someone else put too much money into it and use the money you make to buy a runner on CL.

 

If u sell it part it out you will get more ESP if you need all those parts you say.

 

Hey MM. Why do you recommend converting the MS 250 to 3/8 picco on an 18" bar? It's got .325 on it now with a good condition sprocket.

 

OK. Thanks.

Kinda looking for an all around setup. I know the 250 isn't really an all around saw but it's all I have to work with for now. I'm hoping to find a place to do some cutting and maybe start buying loads of logs so I can save some $.

 

Thanks again MM.

Any pointers on modding the 250 muffler? I read a few things and saw some pics but I would like to get it right the first time.