pelpro pp60 anybody have one?

I and Rectangular shapes seemed pretty similar. Honestly we don't really know if this is improving efficiency, But it does seem to raise the convection temps. But it could be the temps are rising just because we are slowing down the air flow. Which could also be done by slowing the speed down on the convection.

You do not want to slow or choke the convection air down too much as it might over heat the stove. With each stove and convection fan sizes being different. You have to play around with this to get it just enough, But not too much! To see if we are actually increasing efficiency, We would need lots of expensive test equipment and someone with an oversized brain!!

This actually is a very timely process to get all you can from it. I'd run it on high heat for a few hours and monitor the convection air temps. Check to see it doesn't over heat the high temp limit. Then slowly add some resistance to the point it over heats or trips the high limit. Then cut the reduction back to where it runs balls out with out tripping the limits. Lots and lots of trial and error to get it. And if you happen on a hotter/higher density pellet. Ya might need to start all over.

Have fun!

 

My wife just said I am a mad scientist lol... Maybe a little.

 

The manual SUCKS! At least the one I have… It simply says a non combustable material placed underneath the stove and thats all it says in that regard.. I am going to have to look up the manual online I think and see if its a better version. What kind of pad is required normally?

The stove came with the actual OAK setup made for it but not a wall thimble so I am going to order that. Is it a good idea to install the OAK? The man that owned it prior to me didn't install it and heated a 2 story home with it.

Surge protector GREAT idea!

 

As Jay said, no need to weld the tubes.

I'd do some testing to see how much it helps. Run it for an hour at a certain setting (use the same pellets and time for each test) then take air temp readings (K type thermocouple can be had for cheap on eBay). Then install a few of your tubes, squares, etc, and run it for an hour at the same setting and take the air temp (take the reading from the same spot, same distance, etc..

If your only looking to heat 1,000 sq, and only for a few hours, this stove should be plenty for your needs.

Good luck brother!

 

Teaser!

 

I have to go out the left wall I'm going to draw air from the basement for the outside air kit. The wall in the on the right has a porch outside of it.

 

Are you just using a 45° and going straight out (direct vent)? Or going up and out (or out and up, but the vertical is better off inside)?

 

Inspector wants me to go out and then up from the outside so probably 45 straight out the wall then straight up outside 60 inches. It sounded like he wanted me to run the pipe straight up into the air above the second peak of the house which is almost 30 feet up but I'm not sure yet. He also said I can run 60 inches inside out 2 feet away from the wall on the outside of the house and I should be good to go. little confusion yet to figure out…

Sorry about the spelling guys greasy hands so I've been using the voice to text today.

 

I would go up inside the house (3' is the standard) then turn and go out. This will allow you to not buy a 45° piece (saves you a few bucks). Also, it looks cleaner inside, and if the pipe is painted black inside, it looks pretty good.

 

Similar to this.. the pipe joints will allow you to make your 45°, because you can set the pipe how you would lock (4 different positions for Simpson Duravent).

If you go straight out, you will need a 45° off of the stove, then it will be harder to clean also (will have to find a good way to clean that horizontal length). If yiu have a clean out T off the back, then you can run a small brush up the clean out and get the little 6" of horizontal before the exhaust blower.

 

Going up inside the dwelling saves hassles down the road if you decide to change stoves. It saves on re doing the hole if the outlet on the new stove is higher. Most stove pipe makers have an adjustable piece to compensate for the height variance.

 

If you guys say to then that's what I'll do. Besides the inspector can buzz off lol. I just got in contact with an old friend of mine ( county inspector for 13 years ) I can most certainly go up inside and straight out the wall.... I wish he was still an inspector.

 

The one thing I just noticed, your window is less than 48" away. So your gonna have to go 1' above your window. Looks like you have room, but this means you will likely need 5' of rise inside (not a problem, just linger vent means more money).

It doesn't matter if the vertical is inside or outside, it will have to go over 1'. Unless you can get an inspection to pass without it? And your insurance agent to be o.k. with it.

My stove is less than 4' from the window, but I got an o.k. from the appropriate powers to be. It's as close to 4 ft as I can get it (I am 45" from the window. The 3" they were not really worried about).

Maybe you already mentioned the going above the window and I forgot? After a couple days/pages I get a bad case of CRS.

 

Your not raining on my parade.... The inspector wants it through the floor because it will be to close to the flue out the wall. His words not mine. I can either terminate under the house or go out an existing sealed basement window. Also his words. Looks like I'm going out the window under the floor then.

 

As long as the OAK is 1 ft away from the termination, you can put it anywhere.

Just remember that it won't be doing you much good by drawing air from inside your home. Even though it's the basement, all that air that the pellet stove uses (80 Cubic feet of air per MINUTE) will have to be replaced by cold outside air leaking in.

That inspector needs to read the manual. Your allowed to do whatever the manual states. Drawing your outside air from inside defeats the point of even having it. Your still going to be pulling cold air in.

I'm with Larry on this one. But I OAK Everything. It's a way to make your home easier to heat (much easier) and also making your stove a more efficient and effective heater.