Husqvarna 262xp start problem

Hey guys,

Been cutting a lot of wood lately and been running a tank of gas per saw and rotating through to give them each a little run time. Ran my 262xp about 5 days ago and it was running great. Let her idle dry, came home, cleaned her up and I refueled last night to bring to cut this morning. Grabbed her, opened the choke, and wouldn't even burp. Flooded it, so took out the plug, pulled it over about 15 times and let it dry. Tried again about 30 min later and still no go. Ran my 61 instead and took her home to have a look. Took out the spark plug - there was a chip in the insulator beneath the electrode - so changed to a new plug. Check spark and all good. Plug wet with gas - getting plenty of fuel. Compression real high - no worries there. Pulled over once with choke on and got a quick burp, but still wouldn't start. Tried turning the L screw out about 1/8 turn and no go (so turned back to original setting). So.....hoping I had a bad plug and then a bad case of flooding. She's sitting overnight with the plug out and a cloth cover over her - hoping for quick start in the morning - but.....any other thoughts before I head out tomorrow? Thanks guys. Cheers!

 

On mine, the idle/ fast idle setting wouldn't keep.
The screw on the bottom left(on the adjustment side of the carb) holds on the part that sets idle/fast idle. That screw worked loose allowing the idle setting to slip. The saw wouldn't start or run without me pulling the trigger. Not likely that it's your problem, but is a possibility. Fooled me for a whole day. Loctite fixed it. Just one thing to look at.

 

Same thing happened to me about a week ago. Put new fuel filter and line in tank and cleaned out the vent in tank and still nothing. Changed out carb with 2 other running 262's. Still nothing. Then changed out fuel tank and coil. Still nothing. Pulled off the flywheel and found the flywheel key was sheared. Put a different flywheel on and runs like a champ.

 

Could be the key or my other thought is carb diaphram or inlet needle sticking

 

Thanks everyone for the tips - I'm heading out in a few minutes to see if a night of sitting and drying will make a difference. A few questions on the flywheel possibility: the saw can be very hard to pull over - sometime it will snap back very hard - could that be due to the flywheel key being sheared? If so, that might make sense. If the flywheel key is the culprit, would I still get excellent spark when I test for spark with the plug out? I don't think it's due to the carb or inlet needle right now, since I was able to get the saw to sputter with a little carb cleaner sprayed in the cylinder and the plug is wet and cylinder wet after cranking - but, it is the original carb - I should rebuild this winter and replace the fuel line and filter just as preventive maintenance - she sat for years and years (dry) in Virginia before I met the daughter of the owner and had it shipped here. I'll look at the idle screw as well. I'm hoping it was a fluke and I report back in a while that she's fine......we'll see! Thanks again! Cheers!

 

Yes on your flywheel questions!

 

Thanks Bryan - going out now to try her out - so, is the key built into the crankshaft on this saw and the key way on the flywheel? If so, is the key removable from the crankshaft? Thanks!

 

I agree with Bryan, key is cast into the flywheel itself, if sheared you will need a new flywheel. Make sure you torque the new one to factory spec 28NM or 20.65 foot pounds.
KRL

 

Not necessarily Tim. I used a magic marker to line it up without the key on my 154. Torqued it down and it runs perfectly

 

I agree that will work also! You really have to be careful about removing what is left of the key without changing the interference taper on the flywheel though. I have done this before, but always use a very small drop of Loc-Tite 601 on the flywheel taper.

 

Luckily my key was completely and perfectly sheared

 

Yeah Bryan, you were very lucky! Everytime I get one in the shop with a sheared key, it looks like they beat it off with a brick hammer! I usually use a very sharp pointed hardened punch to put a dot on the end of the crank and on the flywheel hub in case I'm in the saw again.

 

Update - went out to try and start her - sprayed a bit of carb cleaner in the cylinder - she fired up and seemed to be running well - let her run for 2-3 minutes. She her down and about 10 minutes later no start again. Still having the bad snap back on the recoil when I try to start her, so I'm leaning toward the sheared key problem. I'll pop off the flywheel in the next few days and take a look - too much cutting to do in the next couple of days. So....based on KRedLeo's and Bryan's comments, I'll take some pics and ask for some advice on whether to replace the flywheel or grind and lock down. By the way, I normally remove the flywheel by back out the nut until there is a recess between the nut and crankshaft - then use an air-hammer to quickly pop the flywheel off the shaft - any worries doing it this way? This is my baby, want to treat her right.....Cheers!

 

I suspend the saw by grabbing a fin with channel locks then a couple firm hits on the nut......Im sure the air gun is much safer!

I didnt use loctite after a bunch of reading. Just torqued it to specs......which was the reason it sheared in the first place.

Post some pics when you have time and we'll get you through the repair.

 

Thanks Bryan - will do! Cheers!

 

Not sure I understand how you are getting the flywheel off. The internal serface of the flywheel center and the crankshaft have a tapered surface (Judson Taper) which is an interference or friction fit, with a key moulded in to the flywheel casting and a matchung keyway in the crankshaft. The keyway/key setup is only for timing, it is the Judson taper that holds the flywheel on the crankshaft, the nut/washer is just there to secure the taper from letting go from vibration. The process of torqing the flywheel nut to 28NM is what forces the taper to the correct amount of interference.

All about how a tapered interference fit works:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Interference_fit

 

Flywheel does have provision for a puller, its' stupid expensive, however I have one I could loan him. I would mail it to him and when finished he could mail it back and all would be good. You have to remove the starter pawls to use it.