Incase they didn't come http://imgur.com/B4YVf8s http://imgur.com/eat5Ira 1953 GMC 4400 stake truck Should have a dump bed if the hydraulics are still there 2 speed axel 4spd tranny Infamous "blue flame" inline 6 with a sopping 84hp from the factory floor 14000 lb load capacity when new Needs work , a lot of it Haven't gotten my hands onto it, just drove by and took a look shot the pics from the car. Have time,tools, and know how. Would be drivable on the road pretty quickly.
If you've got the time and money to get it in the right shape for hauling wood, I can't bring myself to tell someone NOT to use a bad azz 53 dump truck as a wood hauler! That thing is cool What's the asking price? There are likely cheaper alternatives, but like I said, that thing is sweet
Ohh I doubt that I will find much cheaper if we don't include what my hourly rate would be. More than likely I can have it on the road for less than a mid 90's 1500 in good shape including parts. Thanks grizzly, and yes it is with a dump bed it would be uber kewl I think that it will come down to what kind of shape the motor is in. As long as the motor isn't frozen I think this one will be mine.
if the glass is there and just covered to prevent stray bullets from encountering it? Cab corners rusted - check under the seats and floor pans, check the spring mounts thoroughly. I've seen worse project trucks brought back to life
Know the body will test my brazing skills, but I have been looking for a project to hone some of my bodywork skills. Even if the glass is cracked they are flat, cheap to replace. Will be getting underneath her and up to my elbows in her innards Monday hopefully.
so I guess a split front window - only reason I brought it up.. those old windshields can cost a small fortune(for what they are anyways) restored a '65 chevy years ago - became a huge money pit but it was a mud truck, so I had fun
I wouldn't be brazing on it unless you are planning on using lead instead of filler. With the price of migs today don't waste your time brazing. Truthfully if you have to patch things on the body bedside or door skin bonding adhesive and glue the panels on.
If you plan on replacing some of the panels, I was in a fix once where I had CO2 and freezing air coming in through rusted out spots. I used expanding foam in a can, coarse sanding, and spray on bedliner in can to keep me roadworthy and safe til I could get the panels replaced. womanspeak..... thought it might get you on the road sooner...
Looks like a great project for someone with the know how, time and money. Looking forward to seeing the pics of this in progression. Even some shots of it in its 'as is' condition would be cool.
I think you will have trouble finding modern wheels to fit that lug pattern. Those I'm sure are widow maker "rh5" wheels which almost no one will work on... heck even finding a tire shop that knows what they are might be tough. Those are probably 17" wheels? or 20"? Either way good luck on finding rubber. Also I'd plan on redoing the brake system to something more modern. The brakes on the old trucks weren't that good 50 years ago and sure haven't gotten better with age!... That truck probably was expected to do 45-50mph max. Single circuit brake system, might not even be power brakes. The motor shound be a 235 cu in, which would be around 125hp. The 216 used in cars and older trucks (like pre early 1940s) was 85hp. One thing to restore an old truck for put puting in a parade, but to run it on the roads hauling wood... Best choice IMO would be to get a more modern medium duty drivetrain, frame, axles, wheels, etc, etc and put that cab on it. Even something from the late 70s through 80s would be light years ahead.
If you want a cool project then I think you found it. If you want a wood hauler then look for something with off the shelf parts. Tires, starters, switches, lights and hardware would be something I want easy access to.
Once you start having to buy parts, I think it'll quickly get more expensive than you could buy a more modern hauler for. Like nate mentioned, your biggest issue is gonna be brakes
Brazing is fine for bodywork. A gas less mig (flux core) would be terrible, and even a true mig, the welds are rock hard. I'd go tig, oxy acetylene, the mig, if given a choice. In the old days, body filler didn't stick well to brass, now a days filler will stick to just about anything.
You can braze if you want to, I did it for years but make darn sure you get all the flux cleaned off, best to sand blast or wire wheel the patch real good. Once I got my mig I would not go back to brazing. Most of the shops I'm in and out of daily use migs but for patching or partial panels they all glue them so you have a good solid bond then undercoat the back side.
