Stove Pipe help!!

I use the top vent on my PH, and the top vent is 4 3/4" off center (stove is forward of) the ceiling box, and the ceiling box is 34" total (OD) above the stove top.

So I always had two flex joints, and a telescoping straight pipe to make the connection. The two flex joints each move the pipe about 2 1/2" inch's back, and then the straight telescoping pipe brings it up. The problem is, taking this apart (3 different joints screwed with 3 screws each) is a PITA. And to make it worse, the only way to get it off/apart to sweep the chimney is to retract the telescoping piece. And of course that piece ends up stuck, and really difficult to pull back apart to the proper length because of the built up creo in it. Inside the pipe that slides ends up sliding over some creo and gets stuck. Also, where the 3 screws go into it gets slightly bent and adds more pressure and makes the tele pipe hard to slide open / closed.

So is there a better way to do this? Anyone make custom sized pipes? Or is there screw on type of pipes like plumbing type pipes or something?

 

Machria, I would vent it differently, I don't know if your stove has reccomendations as the same way I would vent it or not. Refer to your manual.
First off, I would come off the stove top with a straight piece for as long as I could. Then instead of having two adjustable elbows turned into offsets, I would rotate them to a position of less than 90 degrees-each...one that would give you your 4 3/4" offset.I hope this vid on you tube will help with my explanation.

 

Yooper, thanks but what you explain is exactly what I have now except you flipped it over so the elbows are at the top instead of bottom. I tried that when I first installed it, and it looked like crap. It looks much nicer with them at the bottom, and I have no draft issues at all, so I don't think it will matter which side they are on.

BUT, the real problem I have is, each time I take off the elbo's and telescoping piece to cleam, I have a really hard time getting them back to where they need to be because they get stuck from the creosote, ash and tar..... they don't rotate so easy anymore. In fact, right now I have them out because I swept the chimney a few days ago, and I can't get them back in. I can't separate (pull apart to lengthen) the straight piece at all, and the elbows are at angles that don't work and I can't rotate them anymore.

So I need 2 new adjustable elbo's, and a new adjustable straight piece, which will need to be cut down a bit to fit the short span. But I don't want to have to do this every year or twice a year to sweep the chimney. I would like a better "system". Somebody must make custom pipes, or there must be a better way, no???

 

Move the stove back and install a heat shield.
Move the flue forward.
Or don't sweep the last 12" of the pipe. It's the hottest part and should stay clean. If you disassemble, don't rotate the elbows, just slide the telescopic up and remove.

 

As close as I can tell with these tired eyes, that is not what you have now. The adjustable ells are twisted to an offset...each one. So, in essence, you are offsetting twice as soon as you leave your stove top.
If the ells are not able to rotate or twist (adjust) any longer due to inner buildup, I'm thinking you're burning wood that needs to be seasoned a bit more.
If you twist one ell to a (lets say 60 degree) position, then, twist the other ell to the same amount, connect them together, you will probably have a pipe with two bends in it that is about 12" overall in length. This would leave you with about a 24" length of straight pipe to connect.
Again, myself, I wouldn't use the adjustable (telescoping) straight piece just because I don't use 'em.
Kinda like this-




or this

 

Machria, I also should have complimented you on the setup you have. very attractive!

 

Rear vent with a tee?

 

I don't have to take mine apart to clean it because I have a straight shot, but I know what you're talking about things getting stuck.
Next time I take mine apart I'm going to try some WD 40 and see how that works.
I figure all I have to do is wipe it down real good before I put it back together and there shouldn't be any problems, it might smell funny for a little bit after you fire it up but I don't think it can cause a problem.

 

yeah you can buy them at Menards

 

I agree with Jeff, can you move the stove forward a bit and rear vent with a tee and a straight shot up from there?

If not maybe visit a local metal fab shop and see if they could make you something.

 

Already have the rear heat shield on, and I'm at the min. dist which is 12" to the side walls from the corners. So I can't move the stove back, and there is nowhere to mover the flue forward to, it's as close to the front of the ceiling as it can be. Can't sweep from the top, there no easy way to get up on roof which is basically 4 stories off the ground, and pretty steep. I've been on it once, in 15 years via a rented lift, won't do it again. I replaced my roofing 2 years ago, took 4 roofing companies before I found one to do the job, the others walked and said too high, too steep. So it's not just me!

Can't move it forward, would have to rip up the floor and extend the hearth... got to be a easier way.

I hear ya, and you are correct, mine is a bit different. I should have mentioned I tried exactly that, but it did not line up close enough no matter what we did, it was either too long (to far back) or to short (not far enough back), so the only way it fit was the way we have it now. We spent a good amount of time (myself and a stove installer) trying to make it work, he's done thousands of them, could not get it to work.

So, what is the alternative? I would LOVE to not use the adjustable straight pipe! But how do I avoid it, while keeping the ability to sweep from below?

YOUZA!!!!!!!!! Now we are talkin my language!! Now if I can just figure out a better way to accomplish the 4 3/4" offset, Id be in bidness.

FYI: in the meantime, I found another post mentioning this: http://www.rockfordchimneysupply.com/custom_shop.php
I sent them my diagram and explanation, lets see what they can come up with!


Thanks guys....

 

Thanks guys! And for your enjoyment:

 

Are you sure the stove is burning properly? I can't believe you're getting tar buildup in your flue.

 

Depends what you mean by "tar buildup"? Last winter was a COLD one, I burned ALOT of wood. Toward the end of the season, I definitely ran out of good seasoned wood, and did start to burn wood that was CSS only about 3 to 6 months prior. I got about 2 cups of creo out of my chimney, and there was about 2 or 3 cups of creo flakes in the stove exhaust area just below the vent pipe. Probably about normal for the amount of wood I burned. The adjustable elbo's had a light coating of creo on the, with a few spots of built up stickier stuff (1/16th thick).

It doesn't take much to get in the way of the adjustable pipe to slide over itself. The pipes are tight brand new out of the box and take a bit of coaxing to slide. Add some creo, soot... to the sides, and the pipe gets stuck, then of course you bend it a bit trying to hold it and pull apart which makes it worse. It's just not a very good "system", can't blame the stove.

If I can't get something custom made, one of those bands and a shorter straight section (non-adjustable) will be the ticket. I could then remove the band, remove the straight, and then pull off the elbows in one piece. I would not have to separate and re-adjust and attach them.

 

Thought on it some more.... Those adjustables could be leaking air causing your buildup. Probably best to get something fabbed up.

 

I've wondered about that....

 

Anyone know any other custom pipe shops? Rockford is backed up....