Aside from exotic bow-shaped bars, what are the functional differences between different bar shapes? The are the common bars with visibly curved long edges, the slightly less common bars with nearly straight, parallel edges and a larger nose radius, and the more unusual shape that's fatter near the powerhead with a long, curving taper and small nose radius. I've seen the latter marketed for carving (smaller bars) and "competition" (larger bars). I've also read that larger nose-radii are more prone to kickback, which seems to make some sense, but otherwise, what does it matter?
Why is this? Does the chain cut more efficiently if all the cutting is happening over a small part of the chain? I guess plunging with a tapered bar would mean the chain has to be cutting along all of the chain that's in the wood.
I honestly think it has more to do with the increased sprocket and bearing size translating into better durability. But the chain riding around a larger area makes it easier to get a plunge cut started IMO.
Probably wrong here as I'm working from memory . But it has to do with the chain speed these saws generate . The chains tend to make a circle due to the forces the speed generates.
The wide belly helps the chain keep from jumping off. Some of those saws are running 16 pins and bigger drivers. The belly in a production bar when running longer bars keeps the chain on the bar better. The chain cuts like a wave going down the bar. Some time cut a cookie halfway off and just smack the chain brake and pop the cookie off and see how all the cutters are riding along the bar and where the chips are.
Bwahahaha! I gotta try that sometime when my cutting partner is watching. He already thinks I've lost it!!
Yeah some people think a lot of that is nuts. It's interesting to see how the chain is actually cutting though. Raker shape has a play in how they cut also.
I have a loop of Stihl RSLK that I am very tempted to round grind (effectively converting it to RSK) and compare it to RS.
