New Trucks - Are they really better?

Was talking to a friend of mine at work the SCCA races and he recommended hi-temp brake fluid since I know I'll be towing with the truck. Thoughts?

Wilwood Disc Brakes - Brake Fluid Part No: 290-2210

Prestone® MAX DOT 3 Brake Fluid - Prestone® Total Protection

Or just plain Jane fluid Valvoline DOT 3 & 4 Synthetic Brake Fluid with High Boiling Point, Corrosion Protection, Vapor Lock Resistance, Compatible with ABS, Disc and Drum Brake Systems (won't let me paste the link to Amazon)

 

Only thing talking around here is my mouth.

 

High temp brake fluid is great, for racing, or someone that really needs it.
Going up in DOT numbers also means more maintenance...dot 4 absorbs moisture faster than 3, and 5 is faster than 4.
Also, make sure whenever adding, or changing your fluid that you are using one that is compatible with what you have in there already...synthetic doesn't play nice with mineral based.
IMO chances are real high that the issue you had was just dirty fluid related...changing it out should take care of the issue...unless, the dirty fluid has already compromised the calipers/pistons (they can get a crusty buildup inside) and the overheat came from one of your calipers/pads was dragging, causing heat buildup.
Have you pulled them, do any look like things got hot?

Also, when you went through the brakes at the end of the year, did you push the pistons back in at all, to see how hard they move? By the way, that should be done with the bleeder cracked open, so that you aren't pushing dirty fluid, that has settled in the lowest part of your brake system, back up in the master cylinder and ABS controls. Not opening that bleeder is a common mistake that people make.
Sometimes you get away with it, sometimes you don't.

 

Ordered the Dot3 Valvoline fluid I posted above. Per your advice above, I bought two quarts.

Yes, we pushed all the pistons back in with a C clamp, and greased all of the pins. We thought maybe one of the calipers bit the dust and that's why the brake pad was squeaking but they were all fine. The pad just wasn't sliding well on the clip. We didn't open the bleeder.

When I bleed the brakes, I'll take the front pads off and see how they look. Might be worth getting new pads and putting them on there, just to make sure I'm not using pads that have been possibly overheated.

 

Calipers are incredibly easy to rebuild...but almost nobody does it.
I bought seals for my F250 calipers for something like $7 each.
Just need a brake hone, and some picks/various custom bent scrapers, to clean the seal grooves up...that's generally what makes em bind up, nasty fluid crystalizes behind the seals, making the tolerances too tight.
Back in my bike shop days we rebuild master cylinders and calipers regularly...I don't recall installing a single new one in my 9 years there.
Of course that was before cheap chinees knockoff parts were a thing...and OEM brake calipers/etc were spendy too!

 

I just looked... O'Reilly's auto parts still has the caliper seals...$10-20, depending on your model...

 

We should call you Shleprock, don't you have an atv that is also in the shop a lot? Lol

 

Yep. I’ve traced it to water infiltrating the outer wiring harness cover then producing micro shorts the computer picks up on. The obvious fix is keep the machine dry. The reality IMO is if there’s wires inside the bundles with enough wear on the coatings that water shorts them out eventually that wear will increase to the point they’ll short wet or dry. Chafed wires are a known problem on Polaris machines and others. Polaris has had recalls for it just not on my machine. Something as simple as wiring harnesses a little short, bundled too tight and cinched onto the frame with zip ties a little too tight can mess up the entire show.

Last time I brought it home from the dealer,,,,not running they finally acquiesced that it was a wiring problem. No idea where. Recommended an entire wiring harness replacement. $3800,,,,,,I can’t see spending that much money on another wiring harness made just like the first one. Not to mention spending close to the net worth of the entire machine..

Im on top of a very thin fence about driving to New Hampshire and bringing home a new Yamaha Kodiak or Grizzly. Talked to a salesgirl Friday. Still straddling that fence tho.

 

You would look good on a new Yamaha...just sayin' lol

 

I've been having an intermittent glitch with the EPS light on my Sportsman for a few years now. Sometimes the idiot light is on and sometimes it isn't. Haven't been able to trace the problem yet but I'm hoping it's just a wiring short. Spoke with the dealership a couple years ago and the first thing they said was "replace the whole wiring harness" At that cost, I'll probably just trade it in (which is what they want you to do). Also just had to replace the whole computer dash module as moisture got into it somehow. Simple fix but still $$. Got mine new off eBay versus the dealership.

 

Playing to my vanity? Am I that easy to read? LOL

 

Had that issue a lot. Doesn’t kick the machine into limp mode so it’s not too bothersome.
First possibility is a weak battery. Especially if youre plowing and using the winch a lot. Polaris always seems to have a very weak battery/charging/starter system. Seems more suited for a 50cc scooter. If I drive it like an 18 year old for awhile it will pop on too. Just using more power than it can resupply. If things get real bad you’ll feel the EPS begin to stop working.

What year? Could be you’re having the same issue as me. The wiring on the handlebars (left side mostly) is not sealed. Leave it in the rain or wash the machine and the harness fills with water. I found this by accident dumping it off the trailer last time I brought it home after Polaris told me to was a sea anchor.
Just set the brake and let it slide off the dump trailer. Saw water pouring out of the wires. I used the winch and pulled it almost straight up, nose in the air and quite a bit of water came out. Dropped it to the ground and the warning lights disappeared it popped out of limp mode and worked again.
I could seal those wires,,,,logical. I’ve been waiting to make sure it’s dry inside. Didn’t want to seal water inside. still if there’s open wires inside the harness that can be shorted by water I feel eventually they’ll wear to the point they’ll short out entirely. Then it’s game over.

From what I’ve read but really don’t understand is all those tiny computer wires on these machines are constantly monitored by the computer. They have very tight parameters of how much amperage should pass through each one. If they see a milliamp difference the computer starts screaming. It’s almost like driving an old desk top computer through a mud puddle and expecting it to work on the other side LOL

 

Did you get the -DOT 3- fluid or the -DOT 3/4- fluid that you mentioned above? Looking at the specs of the DOT3/4 stuff, it looks to be basically DOT 4 fluid, but seeing DOT 3 & 4 play nice together they seem to market it as both.



When I do the change on my Crosstrek, I'll be going DOT 3, which is OEM.

 

Isn’t pretty much anything/everything like that now days?

 

Yes. When it's all good, it's great. When it's not, it's a pita

 

It's a 2019. Just put a brand new battery in it the day I replaced the dash module. First time firing it up the EPS light was on. Hasn't come on since. I've never noticed it affecting braking or driving so haven't spent too much time tracking down the cause. Good info to know about the left side handlebar issue, I'll have to check that out after mud season.

 

I'd be half tempted to try some crazy diy repair first...like a WD-40 drip in a strategic spot high in the harness...or pour the loom full of melted crayons... git r dun

 

I bought the DOT 3 fluid you have linked above. It looks to have a little higher boiling point than what standard fluid does rom the little bit of research I did. My local Autozone didn't have any kind of fluid with a higher boiling point.

For some reason, when I tried to copy the link to the Amazon DOT 3 fluid in my post further up it wouldn't post anything. Was getting frustrated (just give me a WYSIWYG interface) so I just copy & pasted the first one I found.

 

oh great, mines a 2019 also. A few days ago I had hoisted it up in the air again,,,,,,drained the wires, dropped it down and all the lights went out. Rain was coming so I covered it with rubber and left it. This morning I took it for a spin. The power steering light came on but like you said it doesn’t cause real trouble so ignore it. Never felt the EPS stop working today.

This is the code I got today from the EPS. Shut it off and the light disappeared. Basically it’s saying there’s a wiring issue. Erratic signals.




This is the one that causes the headaches for me. Drops into limp mode which is absolutely no fun. Not easy to get it out of either.



These are the open wires that collect water in the jacket. For me it’s mostly the front one. I could seal it with silicone caulk or the latest internet sensation, melted crayons. Might be the best use for melted crayons yet conjured up



Yeah Polaris told me I have a parasitic draw from the display board too. Think it was $380 to replace but seeing as they couldn’t get the machine out of limp mode they didn’t bother. I also have to take everything they tell me with a grain of salt. Confidence level in their abilities is not high.

 

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